I also just realized that I have to use the analog output for ms, so I can't spoof the gauge I have and run EGO.

LC1 has 2 analog outs.

For fuck's sake. Do we (I) have to do all your work?

fuck...its too late. I thought it was one digi and one analog. I'm going to bed.

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/i...uge-p-150.html

"The controller has a programable analog output for connecting to Megasquirt or other aftermarket ECUs. The analog output can emulate a narrow band sensor for connecting to the stock ECU, too. Like the regular LC-1, it has a digital output you can connect to a laptop for data logging with LogWorks software, or daisy-chain the LC1 to other Innovate data acquisition systems."


That sounds like 1 analog output too me though.

No. It sounds like it has two. One is running the gauge that is bundled with it, and the other can be used for feeding the ECU.

I might get this, and stick it behind the steering wheel:
http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/O2Meter/BatteryV.jpg

Where is that from? I was thinking of picking this one up:
http://deftracing.com/prosport_gauge...Gauge_52mm.htm

to replace the disco light autometer narrowband unit I have. I really like the gauge that is bundled with the LC-1 on the DIY site, but I haven't been able to find one online yet.

I don't always have a laptop in my car ... after it's tuned no use.

i just found out, they don't have any left. They are replacing them with this:
http://www.zeitronix.com/ZeitronixAFRguage400.jpg

You can get a regular panel voltmeter, program the LC analog out for 1V at 10:1 and 2V at 20:1. Most of the el-cheapo panel voltmeters have a jumper or ground pin to move the decimal point over, it would need to go 1 space to the right. If you can't do that, then just move the decimal in your head. Done. $10. :bigtu:

<edit> here, on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/Blue-200V-Digita...QQcmdZViewItem

Precisely - one of the analog outputs is already taken. So it has one output free. All LC-1s have two analog outputs and a digital one. Maybe I should have written that a bit better...

dude, you already have the gauge...just fucking deal with it...I know what LED on my gauge correlates to my AFR.

https://www.miataturbo.net/braineack...nd/gaugewb.jpg

I acutally reprogramed my output to a different scale, but it's not hard to figure out. Why waste the money...you'll have your laptop there for tuning with a big ass digital gauge on it. If something looks off on the NB gauge, double check with the digital gauge on the laptop and correct. once your tune is good you dont even need the WB or gauge.

can the analog outputs be calibrated independently?

yes

The way I have always looked at it is like this; when tuning I rely most heavily on the WB, boost is important but I could live with an overboost light, EGTs I've found like to show out of spec once oil is pissing out of the exhaust so I don't rely on them.

Injectors DO like to fail, and its usually a gradual degradation. Same for fuel pumps. Voltage dropping can mimic an ECU changing its tune... build-up in a fuel filter, minor split in the feed line from the pump to the tank cover, blocked pre-filter on the pump, hole in the FPR vac line... any of those could lead to a nice hole in a piston and your boost gauge isn't going to warn you. And chances are your EGT gauge will only let you know after the fact.