Endless, Horrible, Squeaking
Eveyrone in my nieghborhood knows me. two or three guys like my big shiney wilwoods. The rest know my car as the loudest in the nieghborhood when I stop.
Does anyone have any suggestions? I want it to sound like a normal car again. |
the louder they are the better they are.
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i've had success with chamferring the edge of the pad. a nice 45* angle on the pad and some anti-squeal lube will usually quiet down the brakes.
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in my experience, squeaking brakes has to do with chatter between the caliper and brake pad. Throw some (usually green) anti-squeak grease on the back side of the pad and on the contact points of the pad (the "ears"). This has fixed all of my squeaking brakes.
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Originally Posted by budget racer
(Post 243277)
i've had success with chamferring the edge of the pad. a nice 45* angle on the pad and some anti-squeal lube will usually quiet down the brakes.
Vash- |
Typically some Permatex Disc Brake Quiet spray between the pad and caliper works (it basically adhere's the two together). Toyota's solution (for the Echo) was to double up on the shims between pads and calipers...
I bought some brake pads of evilbay for $.99, they don't squeak... |
Or buy ------y street pads.
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You can also glue the pads to the calipers. That works.
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I have the wilwoods (goodwin BBK) and have had squeakie brakes for ever, regardless of pad or chamfer, slotted/cross drilled or smooth rotors. Y8S also has the same brakes and suggested making .020" aluminum shims in addition to the usual permatex antisqueel glue (which works for a month or two by itself). I have the aluminum ($5 at mcmaster), just have to make the time to drive to my dads to borrow his tin snips.
In the past I've tried the permatex gel and spray, both blue. The gel worked a lot better, probably because you can apply a bunch and as it dries it bolds/glues the pad to the caliper. Removing the pad is more of a PITA though, obviously, even though it says it "eases pad removal". The spray just put a thin coating, which didn't do much. I also have a tube of CRC antisqueel glue, it's red instead of blue and is thicker. I never tried it though. |
squeaky brakes = real car
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Squeaking just lets people know your shit is for real.
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Originally Posted by Efini~FC3S
(Post 243506)
Squeaking just lets people know your shit is for real.
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Originally Posted by Efini~FC3S
(Post 243506)
Squeaking just lets people know your shit is for real.
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It's some brutal squeaking. It's not a 'let's you know it's working' squeak, it's a conversation stops, both in the car and all up the street.
Originally Posted by budget racer
(Post 243277)
i've had success with chamferring the edge of the pad. a nice 45* angle on the pad and some anti-squeal lube will usually quiet down the brakes.
Originally Posted by TurboTim
(Post 243499)
I have the wilwoods (goodwin BBK) and have had squeakie brakes for ever, regardless of pad or chamfer, slotted/cross drilled or smooth rotors. Y8S also has the same brakes and suggested making .020" aluminum shims in addition to the usual permatex antisqueel glue (which works for a month or two by itself). I have the aluminum ($5 at mcmaster), just have to make the time to drive to my dads to borrow his tin snips.
In the past I've tried the permatex gel and spray, both blue. The gel worked a lot better, probably because you can apply a bunch and as it dries it bolds/glues the pad to the caliper. Removing the pad is more of a PITA though, obviously, even though it says it "eases pad removal". The spray just put a thin coating, which didn't do much. I also have a tube of CRC antisqueel glue, it's red instead of blue and is thicker. I never tried it though. I'd sure feel better if I did get a stare from every cop I pull up next to from my terrible insano break noise. |
you can paypal me the royalties if it works.
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I vote for the brake squeak stopping stuff from autoparts stores. I have had success with them on brakes before. It should only be like $1
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ive had good luck with napa brand brake squeak stop, its in an aresol can any you just spray it on the back of the pads before you install them
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Originally Posted by y8s
(Post 243747)
you can paypal me the royalties if it works.
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heat transfer is inversely proportional to thickness. material selection is relatively inconsequential as long as it's metal.
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Yes, I foolishly wasted my money on products like Artic Silver for years when heat syncing my CPU in my computer. Now, armed with the knowledge that there is only a 0.001" gap (a 20th of the gap mentioned in the brakes here), I typically use a paste of flour and crumpled tobacco leaves.
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