engine cranks but doesn't start
 

So problem #2 of the day haha, cant figure this out, engine cranks fine, and sounds strong, but it does not start

I understand this has to do with either spark or fuel.

I recently pulled the motor, and changed the timing belt and all that jazz.

First I removed the valve cover and checked the timing belt

gonna borrow revlimiters pic

looks just like this:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1332030150

So I'm guessing thats correct.

-Next I pulled the fuel line, and fuel leaked out, so I'm getting fuel.

Next pulled the spark plugs, and they seemed fine.

-Went to autozone and exchanged my ngk wires with new sparkplug wires, and changed that, also bought new ngk plugs.

-Changed to new plugs and wires and that seems fine.

-The ground strap broke while I pulled the motor, and I replaced with with 4 gauge wire, check that to make sure that's good, and it was.

Then I tried to crank up the motor again, still the same thing.

-check all the fueses, all of them were fine

It cranks fine, but never starts. Sounds completely normally, and doesn't do anything weird other than not starting.

I'm pretty sure its got to be somethings stupid, but I can't seem to figure it out.

Also used the adaptronic ems to take a log of the start process (attaching it to this).

Any ideas?

Coils hooked up backwards? If you switch the leads, it won't start. Try changing them.

Checked it. It's proper.

I want actual pics of your crank at TDC and cam gears lined up correctly.

The presence of fuel in the fuel line doesn't mean the fuel pump is working. Can you hear it? Try jumpering it. Do you have a timing light? If so, hook it up and see if the coils are firing. In other words, the first step is to confirm the presence of fuel and spark. Once you have that, figure out why you don't have the correct fuel and spark.

Does this look correct:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1332039420

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1332039420

No, but I think I can rent one to check at most stores.

Your exhaust cam looks 2 teeth off. I only count 17 little bumps between the "I" and "E" lines. It should be 19 bumps. I would check that again and fix it if it is off.

Ok, thanks. I was counting the wrong thing :riaa: , hope it's that simple!

The lobe on the exhaust cam looks a little high in the bird's eye view so I think you're onto something. I've never counted teeth - I line up the marks on the cover behind the gears after finding TDC on the crank.

Pop out your main fuel injection relay and jump it.

So I took the valvecover off, and managed to reallign the cam without ------- with anything else:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1332104708

but it still doesn't start.

Just gonna start taking everything apart again, to see what I'm missing. Hopefully it'll be something obvious.

I'm really sure its not the fuel. I tired the starter fluid method, that didn't do squat.

That picture looks correct.

You can try jumping the fuel pump in the diagnostic box. You jump F/P to ground and it will stay running.

The fuel pump turns on, but the car still does the same thing :(

Attachment 185999

took everything apart and the the crank was off by a bit.

Can you guys check this real quick to make sure its right so i don't ---- it up again and can close it up haha:

Attachment 185996

Attachment 185997

Attachment 185998

Looks good. How far off was the crank?

Awesome, hopefully it starts this time.

About 1-2 teeth.

Thanks for all the help!

If your injectors aren't firing and you have no spark I would suspect a crank angle or cam position sensor signal not getting to the ecu.

As Mr Hyde above posted, you need to establish that you do for fact have fuel and spark. First I would check for spark at the plugs. Will need to ground the plug to the head and have someone turn it over. It would be advisable to have the fuel pump OFF in this test.

I checked the wiring in both the sensors they both seem fine, how would u know if they are bad?

This is so frustrating, damn thing still doesn't start, I know for sure the cam timing is correct now tho.

Here is a link to what it sounds like if it helps

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...4/cb84eef6.mp4

It's not firing any mixture.
So, you've got to establish spark first. If it exists, then you've got no fuel.
If needed, we'll diag fuel as soon as we establish spark.
Both are dependent on the ecu 'knowing' where the engine is at in its cycle.

A quick check for fuel is to crank for a fair bit, then pull a plug and see if it's wet. Or reeks of gas.

Thanks.

I did the spark test:

no spark:

video:

http://s223.photobucket.com/albums/d...t=60d6ebef.mp4

Pulled the plugs, they are not wet.

Does this mean its the sensor?

Checked all 4, none of them have a spark.

Okay, now check for fuel, if you have no fuel either, then it may be the crank/cam sensors or their harnesses/connectors, or it may be the ecu doesn't have power.
Could be as simple as a connector not plugged in. (Hope,hope,hope)

If we have fuel, then it's time to check the secondary ignition. Coils, power/signal to coils.
Make absolutely sure the plug you test is grounded well. I couldn't tell in the vid. [good lord I'm getting old. Increased mah screen size, you gots a jumper-cable to ground it! okay.]

Oops! on edit: I didn't notice your last post on pg 1!

You know you don't have fuel/spark, so it isn't likely the secondary ign or fuel system since those were working before the engine r&r. It doesn't completely rule out those systems, just gives us a place to go to for now.

Somebody here should know where to check in the harness to see where the 12v and ground are for the ecu. Check for it at the harness. If we have power/ground there, then we need to check for engine to ground with an ohmmeter.

Also with the meter you can unplug the ecu and cam/crank sensors and check for continuity between the ecu harness and the sensors. This will rule out the harnesses.
Don't put the meter on the ecu pins at all. Those li'l things are not happy with funky currents they're not designed for. Drivers are sensitive.

Ok thanks, I'll go get a meter, to check the harness.

I'm sure all the grounds are in.

I replaced the ground strap with a 4gauge wire, would this cause any of the issues?

Very unlikely. Bad/weak ground shows up as other little gremlins.

Not really. It should be mo' better electrically than the stock strap.
I'm assuming your engine ground goes to the stock body ground location?
Do you have a good chassis to battery ground as well?

Is there anyway to test the ground to make sure it's correct?

I checked all of them, they are all in their default locations, and they are on tight.

Used a multimeter and checked the plugs, and power is going everywhere, so I'm guessing the harness is good.

I never messed with the chassis to battery harness, should be whatever was stock.

Anyway of testing the sensors to narrow it down?

You could connect the meter to the crank/cam sensor itself, on ac volts and see if the sensor generates any voltage during cranking. The sensor should also have an impedance, but I don't know how much.
There is also a 'gap' for the cas. Needs to be pretty close for the sensor to work.

What do you mean by 'power is going everywhere'?
You have 12v at the connector to the ecu?

I measured it at each connection individually, and power was coming through.

I'll check on the gap tomorrow, see if its good, I'm pretty sure it is going down as much as it can tho.

Got a new cam sensor.

Nothing changed :(

Still doesn't start.

Ripped out the harness, checked everything, and reattached it everywhere just to make sure that was good.

Still no luck.

Any more ideas?

Im having the same bad luck with mine after a recent engine swap, except mine starts. Mine will fire, rev to 2k or so, then immediately die. I've replaced the ecu, coilpack, filter, pump, injectors, fpr, and still does the same. Im about to just burn it. Hopin' to see a few things in here that I may not have tried!

Am I on candid camera?

Okay. Imp has no fuel/no spark. Do you have any codes at all? I'm staring to think power to the ecu, or the ecu. Don't rush out to buy one just yet. Does the pump prime when you first turn the key?

Nix, does it only die above two K, or will it idle all day or what? Also, codes?
If it's dying above two K only I'd wonder about two things first. Fuel supply and timing. Mechanical (Cams to crank) and ign timing. Upon re-reading you situ, Is your fuel pump running with the key in run engine running? Might try jumping the FP relay and seeing what happens...

You both could use a breakout box and a scope...