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For what is worth, Jeff @ Maztech is more of a "factory guy", than a modded or aftermarket guy.
For modified Miatas, try John Lambert, he rally crosses Miatas, and does his own fabrication. He also does Megasquirt tuning. He did minor fabing on my NA (adjusted the hood latch, so that the hood wouldn't shake and the hood lined up better, installed the CAI https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...-miatas-76193/, and did a bunch of other stuff, all for VERY reasonable prices.
Yep, Jeff doesn't tune Megasquirts. But he can diagnose a bad engine component and fix it, no problem. Or put dual valve springs on your engine without removing the head.
He's sharp, honest, and reasonable...and a credentialed master beer judge
Yep, Jeff doesn't tune Megasquirts. But he can diagnose a bad engine component and fix it, no problem. Or put dual valve springs on your engine without removing the head.
He's sharp, honest, and reasonable...and a credentialed master beer judge
I recommended Jeff, before you did. I've known Jeff since 2001, when I bought my first NA Miata, and for as long as I've known him, he has never being a fan of aftermarket parts, components or deviations from factory settings.
If he wasn't honest, I would have not recommended him.
Update, moved in, boxes unloaded, car is washed and in garage now.
As of now I've made contact with Miata's and More and have been exchanging messages with Jace Micklos. Any thoughts on him as a trust worthy mechanic?
I've also made contact with Goumba fab as well.
I also found Sunshine State JDM has a imported VVT motor with 60k miles and compression tests for sale. Is it correct that these motors have 10.5:1 compression, is this not a good match for Rotrex? Too high of compression? They also have some NB1 engines for sale.
Would you guys recommend running a stock motor for rotrex? Again, with current pulley setup, the motor made 234/184. It's probably the cheaper route over rebuilding my current engine, although we don't know the status of the internals.
I see there's a couple 15-18 minutes from my house. Just not sure I want to commit that lifestyle. What happens if you put pump gas in, in an emergency?
I've been researching the local Tampa and central Florida Miata scene a bit, got some recommendations from miataturbo guys and talked to a handful of shops. So far all the shops I've talked with have been really chill and helpful, and offered plenty of advice. Good vibes.
After speaking with a few shops who do plenty of turbo builds with way more power than I make, I think I've narrowed it down to buying a 99,00 non VVT 1.8 from a local JDM engine importer. 50-60k mile, compression tested, 90 warranty for well below a grand. No reason to go big built motor for my power levels, and most likely the reason why my motor failed wasn't because I was supercharged.
I made a deposit on the motor today.
I'm not completely decided on who's going to do the swap but John Lambert from GoumbaFab is hopefully coming by maybe next week to discuss plans and look over the car, he even offered to trailer it to his shop. He does fab work, cages, engine builds, tuning, and owns a stage rally Miata.
So that's where we stand now.
Even though it's pretty hot during the days here right now, the mornings and evenings would still be great for driving, so I'm missing this right now.
Curly, wondering if I should make this into build thread, I used to have one on here, but I don't see it.
Jeff at Maztech is the fellow to diagnose your problem. And he can pull the engine if it is bad. He's knowledgeable, reasonable, and honest.
(813) 874-0937
I'm going to guess you over revved at some point and the weakened rod stretched. But you may have been running too much advance in boost, too.
This. Nearly 15 years ago, Jeff did a rebuild for me that lasted > 10 years at 18 psi. I do my own rebuilds now, but I still take the wife's car in. He's great and reasonably priced.
Well after receiving a **** motor from the JDM importer, which they took back fairly easily, I'm having John at Goumba Fab take apart my current engine's bottom and and hopefully just rebuild it.
Here's what he found so far and his thoughts. The number two rod bearing was bad. Since it wasn't number four, that most likely means that oil starvation wasn't an issue. There was much more bearing material in the oil than just one cylinder worth I think. I'm going to look into that tomorrow. I think the cause of death may have been not enough bearing clearance. The number two bearing was definitely spun. The other bearings have excessive scoring on them.
More to follow.
05-19-2017, 01:06 PM
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