Yes, my problem sounds electronic.

But if there's a sensor, and four prongs, and they're all a different distance, that cannot be right. Look at any trigger wheel. All prongs are supposed to be the same distance.

 

You mean the gap between the sensor and the tooth is different for each of the four teeth at it passes by the sensor?

If so then yeah, that's a problem. One I've never seen, in fact.

 

I'm...well aware of that. What an odd comment.

 

Yeah, just checked it again. At least one of the nubs is noticably further away from the sensor than the other.

Put a 21mm ratchet on the pulley, and couldn't really get it to turn that much, but didn't feel wobbly. There some better way to test for wobbles?

 

Sensor gap errors cause massive, undriveable misfires at a repeatable RPM independent of throttle application.

 

Well, not sure my regulator is going to help. Sounds like Andrew has your number there.

 

I'm not so sure. At first the breakup was just at WOT, but now it's starting to happen at cruise as well. I'll probably try gapping the sensor once more, making sure it's a credit card's width out from the furthest prong, after clearing codes.

 

Swap MS3 in, test?

 

I haven't wanted to swap in the MS3, I'm not quite sure what to do with it as per the last PM.

 

Install the WB to see how AFR reacts during the stumble. Might help explain if its fuel, spark, sensory..

Install MS after and log, that should reveal sensor issues.

 

Checked, the crank doesn't seem wobbly, and the nut seems to be on there decently. Put a prybar on it a touch and saw the timing disk flex but nothing else moved. All seems solid.

 

If you were down here in Tucson I'd have a spare four tooth wheel you could use for diag. Maybe try calling Mike's Place? It's just weird that yours got damaged somehow.

 

Yeah, I could have just been imagining it. I'm not good with spacial relationships. Just gapped it all again, and seems like it should be working, but now it's not starting. Might have the gap a little too far now.

Codes are:

P0031
P0037
P0128
P0134
P0300
P0301
P0304
P1345

The second O2 sensor makes sense, I've removed the one that just checks up on the cat.

However, it says sensor 1 isn't active, which I thought was the primary O2 sensor. Odd.

P1345 is what I've been operating off, with putting in a new cam and crank sensor.

 

Well, I wasn't imagining the gap distance changing. I gapped it just so a credit card (my .030 feeler gauge) just had a bit of tension, then turned the crank... and the next prong scraped into the plastic of the sensor again. So I found the longest prong, set it so it just barely doesn't hit that one, and tried to start... no start.

 

What is the difference in length between the shortest and the longest tooth?

 

Right now, it's gapped so:

2x teeth ~.005 gap
1x tooth ~.01 gap
1x tooth ~.08 gap

Which is well outside of the .029-.059 gap spec.

 

Okay, just gapped it to ~.025 from one of the 3 longer teeth, and it's at least starting again. Time to see what happens.

Edit: What happened is that the O2 heater errors are back, as is P0300 random misfire and P1345 crank/cam signal data error.

 

The O2 codes are probably because you have one of them unplugged.

The Random Misfire and Crank/Cam code are probably due to your trigger wheel. I'm guessing that it's only seeing three out of four pulses per revolution because of the worn down nub being .07 shorter than the others, and the spec for gap is only .03 wide (.059 - .029).

Either get another 4 tooth wheel from Mike's Place or Mazda, or get the 36-1 Trigger wheel from a 1.6L Protege from the dealer, and install your MS3.

 

Will you people stop STOP advising others to install a 36-1 trigger wheel with an MS3, especially on a 01-05? It doesn't work.