Full throttle randomly feels like the brakes were applied, not sure why?
03-23-2014, 04:53 PM
#21
It's actually a VR sensor with a built in conditioner, not a hall sensor, which is an important distinction in this case.
The sensor is unlikely to be damaged by having a 1-2mm gouge in it from the wheel. The electronics are located back within it some distance, the visible tip is just steel.
That said, your problem certainly sounds electronic rather than mechanical, and the NB cam sensor is notorious, with the crank sensor slightly less so.
The sensor is unlikely to be damaged by having a 1-2mm gouge in it from the wheel. The electronics are located back within it some distance, the visible tip is just steel.
That said, your problem certainly sounds electronic rather than mechanical, and the NB cam sensor is notorious, with the crank sensor slightly less so.
But if there's a sensor, and four prongs, and they're all a different distance, that cannot be right. Look at any trigger wheel. All prongs are supposed to be the same distance.
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03-23-2014, 04:59 PM
#22
Boost Pope
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You mean the gap between the sensor and the tooth is different for each of the four teeth at it passes by the sensor?
If so then yeah, that's a problem. One I've never seen, in fact.
If so then yeah, that's a problem. One I've never seen, in fact.
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03-25-2014, 01:55 PM
#33
Codes are:
P0031
P0037
P0128
P0134
P0300
P0301
P0304
P1345
The second O2 sensor makes sense, I've removed the one that just checks up on the cat.
However, it says sensor 1 isn't active, which I thought was the primary O2 sensor. Odd.
P1345 is what I've been operating off, with putting in a new cam and crank sensor.
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03-25-2014, 02:09 PM
#34
Well, I wasn't imagining the gap distance changing. I gapped it just so a credit card (my .030 feeler gauge) just had a bit of tension, then turned the crank... and the next prong scraped into the plastic of the sensor again. So I found the longest prong, set it so it just barely doesn't hit that one, and tried to start... no start.
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03-25-2014, 03:23 PM
#37
Okay, just gapped it to ~.025 from one of the 3 longer teeth, and it's at least starting again. Time to see what happens.
Edit: What happened is that the O2 heater errors are back, as is P0300 random misfire and P1345 crank/cam signal data error.
Edit: What happened is that the O2 heater errors are back, as is P0300 random misfire and P1345 crank/cam signal data error.
Last edited by Nagase; 03-25-2014 at 03:54 PM.
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03-25-2014, 06:27 PM
#38
The O2 codes are probably because you have one of them unplugged.
The Random Misfire and Crank/Cam code are probably due to your trigger wheel. I'm guessing that it's only seeing three out of four pulses per revolution because of the worn down nub being .07 shorter than the others, and the spec for gap is only .03 wide (.059 - .029).
Either get another 4 tooth wheel from Mike's Place or Mazda,or get the 36-1 Trigger wheel from a 1.6L Protege from the dealer, and install your MS3.
The Random Misfire and Crank/Cam code are probably due to your trigger wheel. I'm guessing that it's only seeing three out of four pulses per revolution because of the worn down nub being .07 shorter than the others, and the spec for gap is only .03 wide (.059 - .029).
Either get another 4 tooth wheel from Mike's Place or Mazda,
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