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Old 03-10-2012, 06:30 PM   #1
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Default Gearhead overcomes impossible adversity

So, I was bled my clutch and when I was done I felt that the valve/screw was not really tight enough. So I tightened it more, so to make sure no air would get in and I wouldn't have to do it all over. As I tightened it I felt it get a little easier, so I tightened it more, just to be safe. And then it got too easy to turn and I realized That I broke the valve/screw in half and that I must have down syndrome. I have not tried to drive the car, I assume it will not go since there will probably be no clutch pressure.

My question is to y'all:

1) Any creative way to get the remaining half of the nipple out of the slave cylinder.

2) Assuming I can not do that which is stated above, do you think I can replace the slave cylinder in my driveway, or do I need to take it to the shop around the corner? I don't know if there is enough room in there for me to do it, but whateves.

I'm going to go live with Faeflora now where my fail will be accepted and my skill with messing ---- up perfected. Good by.

Last edited by gearhead_318; 03-13-2012 at 06:36 PM.
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Old 03-10-2012, 06:31 PM   #2
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Dude, a new slave cylinder should be about $10.

Don't ---- with it, it's not worth your time. Just get a new one.

Replacement is easy in your driveway, I can easily reach down in from the hood and remove/install a slave cylinder. I'm also not the biggest guy ever, but 6'1" and 220lbs isn't exactly tiny.

(Edit) This is assuming you got rid of the retarded curly-Q. That curly-Q would complicate things.
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Old 03-10-2012, 06:48 PM   #3
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If the curly-Q is still there, turn the wheels hard left and jack the right side up for access behind the wheel and under the sub frame.
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Old 03-10-2012, 06:52 PM   #4
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And autozone reveals a cincinatti store with a lifetime warranty $20 slave cyl.

It's not worth your time to ---- with it.
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Old 03-10-2012, 06:52 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blaen99 View Post
Dude, a new slave cylinder should be about $10.

Don't ---- with it, it's not worth your time. Just get a new one.

Replacement is easy in your driveway, I can easily reach down in from the hood and remove/install a slave cylinder. I'm also not the biggest guy ever, but 6'1" and 220lbs isn't exactly tiny.

(Edit) This is assuming you got rid of the retarded curly-Q. That curly-Q would complicate things.
Thanks, I'm about to go to the autoparts store and pick up new master & slave cylinders. Might as well replace em' both.

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Originally Posted by olderguy View Post
If the curly-Q is still there, turn the wheels hard left and jack the right side up for access behind the wheel and under the sub frame.
I don't know what a curly-Q is, but I assume it is still there. I'll jack it up tomorrow and see if I have enough room.
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Old 03-10-2012, 06:54 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead_318 View Post
Thanks, I'm about to go to the autoparts store and pick up new master & slave cylinders. Might as well replace em' both.
Excellent plan, it's always a wise idea to replace both master and slave at the same time.

Quote:
I don't know what a curly-Q is, but I assume it is still there. I'll jack it up tomorrow and see if I have enough room.
It's that retarded hard-line that is looped around two or three times right on the slave cylinder.

If you bled it without tearing your hair out trying to deal with a hard line, you probably don't have it.
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Old 03-10-2012, 06:55 PM   #7
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This is a very easy fix. New slave at autozone/etc should be $30ish. Next time don't go all retard strong on the bleed valve.
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Old 03-10-2012, 06:57 PM   #8
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It's two loops of hardline right off the slave cylinder, a lot of the aftermarket stainless steel lines get rid of it to ease installation and free up room around that area.

If you want to have a back up, this is one instance where I'd suggest an easy-out, if you have them. The bleeder valve can be had for a buck or two.
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Old 03-10-2012, 06:59 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by messiahx View Post
This is a very easy fix. New slave at autozone/etc should be $30ish. Next time don't go all retard strong on the bleed valve.
lol thanks. I don't know why I did it, I knew it was a bad idea to go at something that small with a 12" expendable socket wrench before going outside, but I needed to replace the slave anyway.
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:06 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
It's two loops of hardline right off the slave cylinder, a lot of the aftermarket stainless steel lines get rid of it to ease installation and free up room around that area.

If you want to have a back up, this is one instance where I'd suggest an easy-out, if you have them. The bleeder valve can be had for a buck or two.
Behold, the left side of my engine bay:

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Old 03-10-2012, 07:13 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead_318 View Post
Behold, the left side of my engine bay:



Why do people always try to link from their gmail/ymail/etc. accounts? Unless you give us your username and password too for that account, we can't see the picture.
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:17 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by blaen99 View Post


Why do people always try to link from their gmail/ymail/etc. accounts? Unless you give us your username and password too for that account, we can't see the picture.
See title. In the words of Fred Durst, It's just one of those days.

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Old 03-10-2012, 07:49 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead_318 View Post
See title. In the words of Fred Durst, It's just one of those days.

Yes you do have the curly-Q, unfortunately that picture does not show it. You need to turn your steering wheel all the way to the left then get down in the wheel well and you will see it right to the top rightish of the slave cylinder.
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Old 03-10-2012, 08:34 PM   #14
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I'm not sure if it's the same with the clutch master, but you have to bench bleed the brake master. You might want to pick up one of those bench bleeding kits while you're at the parts store.
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Old 03-10-2012, 08:35 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dustinb View Post
I'm not sure if it's the same with the clutch master, but you have to bench bleed the brake master. You might want to pick up one of those bench bleeding kits while you're at the parts store.
Do they work? I've heard mixed reviews.
------------------
Ok, got a new slave cylinder and it looks like the hardest part will be connecting the end of the boot to whatever it connects to. Other then that it doesn't look too hard.
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Old 03-10-2012, 09:18 PM   #16
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Save the old slave. Rebuild kits usually include a new bleeder screw. To get the old one out, use a left handed drill bit. Failing that, gently tap a large nail into the broken off end, and you should be able to back it out.

If you can't change a slave on a Miata in your driveway using just the OEM jack, you shouldn't even be changing your own oil. Yes, it's that easy.
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Old 03-10-2012, 09:28 PM   #17
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In Gearhead's defense, he's managed to avoid taking a sawzall to any structural parts of the car body to solve his problem.
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Old 03-10-2012, 09:29 PM   #18
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Unfortunately I don't change my own oil, but it looks like I should be able to get to the slave cylinder if I jack the car up a bit and maybe take the wheel off.

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In Gearhead's defense, he's managed to avoid taking a sawzall to any structural parts of the car body to solve his problem.
Thank you! I almost never sawzall'd my car.
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Old 03-10-2012, 10:35 PM   #19
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I'm seeing a lot of brake bleed kits, but none for a clutch. Are there any differences, or will it work for brakes and/or a clutch?



Last edited by gearhead_318; 03-10-2012 at 10:58 PM.
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Old 03-10-2012, 11:20 PM   #20
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I've always just "bled" the master clutch by hand outside of the car, Gear. I make sure it gives a no-bubble stream of fluid, then slap that puppy in.

It's always worked for me on any car I've worked on.
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