Got an aluminum flywheel? Come in...
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,010
Total Cats: 52
From: VA Beach
Just installed and Ebay F1 racing stage 3 clutch with a Flyin Miata aluminum flywheel on my DD 2000. I like the clutch seems lighter than stock and works well. Little chattery but its new so I'll let it break in.
Question is now the car idles, choppy. Not smooth. Its not bad and I have put 400 miles on it and it works great I can only bet its due to the lack of rotating mass. Anyone else have this issue?
Thanks!
Question is now the car idles, choppy. Not smooth. Its not bad and I have put 400 miles on it and it works great I can only bet its due to the lack of rotating mass. Anyone else have this issue?
Thanks!
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,010
Total Cats: 52
From: VA Beach
I have that flywheel with a different clutch and I had no problems after that. I think it wouldn't **** with the idle at all unless something isn't balanced and your crank is freaking out and your timing is getting fuxored somehow.
I say it's coincidental fuckage..
I say it's coincidental fuckage..
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,010
Total Cats: 52
From: VA Beach
Hmmmm. It only has an issue at idle. I heard of this before with light flywheels. I'll call FM monday.
I've heard of people talking about this too. When I fitted a lightweight flywheel the only issue I had was the quicker drop in revs occasionally meant the engine would stall when approaching traffic lights, a small adjustment of the idle screw cured that.
what's your idle speed like?
what's your idle speed like?
I do not have an aluminum one, instead 5 pounds were removed from the stock steel FW.
The complete assembly, flywheel, disc, pressure plate were taken to a machine shop and everything was re-balanced just in case.
With the steel one with only 5 pounds off the revs do go down when approaching a traffic light, nothing crazy.
Like others say, its a matter of adjusting the idle.
The complete assembly, flywheel, disc, pressure plate were taken to a machine shop and everything was re-balanced just in case.
With the steel one with only 5 pounds off the revs do go down when approaching a traffic light, nothing crazy.
Like others say, its a matter of adjusting the idle.
I've got the 1.6L 7lb Fidanza flywheel. I had to adjust my base idle (diag connector jumpered) up to 1000rpm. After that, no more stalling problems.
I'm in a heap of trouble now with the 2.0L. I've got the idle screw fully open and it idles just at 750rpm now.
Check your idle with GND and TEN jumpered in the diagnostic box.
I'm in a heap of trouble now with the 2.0L. I've got the idle screw fully open and it idles just at 750rpm now.
Check your idle with GND and TEN jumpered in the diagnostic box.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,010
Total Cats: 52
From: VA Beach
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,010
Total Cats: 52
From: VA Beach
Ok so thinking about it I did install the head and the coolant reroute during the clutch install so to make sure I was not something I did I pulled off the timing belt and reset it. Seems better now, a little choppy but not what it was....so I'm going with the timing being off a little
My bad.
My bad.
It won't cause idle problems, but it WILL make any idle problems you had before more obvious. Mine did the same thing, went from pretty smooth to now having slight bumps at idle, feels like a misfire (but isn't). I can't find anything obviously wrong over the time I have had it rebuilt. I've also had this "issue" with other cars with light flywheels. Not really an issue, just a change in how it feels. You will get used to it. Makes you feel things you didn't feel before, normal or not.
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