gt2860rs .86AR turbine crew: how the hel do I get the bottom nutt off? - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 06-12-2009, 05:22 AM   #21
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@hustler: how often did you check for loose nuts and retighten them? My feeling is that once it's loose beyond a level it will destruct itself in no-time. If you keep it tight-ish you'll live longer. Waiting for the space age thread locker to arrive here.
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Old 06-12-2009, 11:52 AM   #22
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Old 06-12-2009, 11:53 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Spookyfish View Post
@hustler: how often did you check for loose nuts and retighten them? My feeling is that once it's loose beyond a level it will destruct itself in no-time. If you keep it tight-ish you'll live longer. Waiting for the space age thread locker to arrive here.
I checked daily after the first track event. Only the nuts on the top sides of stuffs are breaking.
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Old 06-12-2009, 12:04 PM   #24
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driving the car hard. I soaked them in penetrating oil and they still broke on the dp side. With any luck I'll penetrate you.

After what I've gone though today with more **** breaking and dealing with this crap, I think I've realized that I must go above and beyond what works for normal people and go with v-bands. Hopefully BEGi can do this in a timely fashion.

Am i really asking to much to have a turbo car that I don't have to disassemble everytime I track it? I don't mind little **** here and there, but taking the car appart incessantly, living in hotels doesn't make sense after already droping $4k on a turbo kit.

What are the chances that someone would want my manifold and dp for $600?
Are they shearing when you are removing them? If so, smear some of this on the new stuff. Apply like peanut butter:



Product Details | 20gram Stick C5-A(R) Copper Anti-Seize | Fastenal

Products | Fastenal

It's good to 1800F, and you should be able to get this as an individual item in a store.

Chris
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Old 06-12-2009, 12:18 PM   #25
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Are they shearing when you are removing them? If so, smear some of this on the new stuff. Apply like peanut butter:



Product Details | 20gram Stick C5-A(R) Copper Anti-Seize | Fastenal

Products | Fastenal

It's good to 1800F, and you should be able to get this as an individual item in a store.

Chris
so...um...do you suggest I use this and thread locker? I'd rather have them seize and hold than continue coming loose.
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Old 06-12-2009, 12:38 PM   #26
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Wow, sorry to hear about your ordeals hustler. It really does hurt me...knowing how much you put into your setup. Hopefully you can put in a little more and have something invincible.

It amazes me how many problems ya'll have. I don't track mine, but I drive pretty damn hard...hard enough to cause the DP to seperate completely at the clamped sleeve joint...and still no fastener probs. My exhaust is rigid as can be with a JEG's band style clamp and no flex joint.

I hope I don't have join the misery of the loose bolt crew.

Last edited by gospeed81; 06-12-2009 at 01:20 PM.
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Old 06-12-2009, 01:00 PM   #27
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so...um...do you suggest I use this and thread locker? I'd rather have them seize and hold than continue coming loose.
I thought just the nuts were coming loose and you were searing the studs on removal. Put it just on the studs then, easier to tighten them up then have to have them drilled out.

Besides, I don't think Threadlocker is spec'd for over 450F.
https://tds.us.henkel.com//NA/UT/HNA...ile/266-EN.pdf

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Old 06-12-2009, 01:17 PM   #28
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I thought just the nuts were coming loose and you were searing the studs on removal. Put it just on the studs then, easier to tighten them up then have to have them drilled out.

Besides, I don't think Threadlocker is spec'd for over 450F.
https://tds.us.henkel.com//NA/UT/HNA...ile/266-EN.pdf

Chris
I'm using 2100* stuffs.
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Old 06-12-2009, 08:44 PM   #29
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I can't even get the CRHA bolts out of the hotside...is this normal?
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Old 06-13-2009, 10:44 AM   #30
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I can't even get the CRHA bolts out of the hotside...is this normal?
Cant reach them or seized? Is the turbo out yet? With the manifold, downpipe and turbo loose you can wiggle it out probably, it was hard to do with my 2560 not sure how much bigger yours is (11"?). I shortened the studs this time.
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Old 06-13-2009, 11:53 AM   #31
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I can't even get the CRHA bolts out of the hotside...is this normal?
No.
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Old 06-13-2009, 01:04 PM   #32
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not seized, but really tough to break loose. Should I use anti-sieze on those or just bolt them back up.

Johnwag is on his way to little rock with truck. :( There is retribution in my future though.
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Old 06-13-2009, 06:52 PM   #33
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giving up
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Old 06-13-2009, 08:27 PM   #34
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turbo gaskets?
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Old 06-13-2009, 09:24 PM   #35
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hustler if you stop being a ******* transvestite ***** you can just take that **** out. Don't tell me your punny *** is no match for a 14 mm bolt?
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Old 06-14-2009, 07:17 AM   #36
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Find a proper wrench and stop molesting them with ill fitting tools. Or Dremel them out as they need replacing any way.
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Old 06-14-2009, 09:48 AM   #37
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Find a proper wrench and stop molesting them with ill fitting tools. Or Dremel them out as they need replacing any way.
hey, lets run our mouths about **** we know nothing about!!!
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Old 06-14-2009, 10:53 AM   #38
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Damn dude, I feel bad for you. I get way to frustrated for the smallest things I don't think I could handle that.
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Old 06-14-2009, 11:47 AM   #39
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Damn dude, I feel bad for you. I get way to frustrated for the smallest things I don't think I could handle that.
this is why I'm moving on to a simplified design because I think side-mounting is part of the problem. I don't mind little issues here and there...taking the turbo off after each track event will not happen.
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Old 06-14-2009, 01:59 PM   #40
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hey, lets run our mouths about **** we know nothing about!!!
No offense intended, we're in the same boat. I got a whole set of weird angle wrenches to get to these nuts. Anything normal won't suffice. That was putting it on. To disassemble I took my turbo and manifold to a shop locally to have them drill that gear out and put in new ones. I can't do that ****.
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