Originally Posted by Saml01
(Post 228046)
Could the base idle pressure on the AFPR be set wrong?
Can a car even idle at 5:1 afr? Whats having me scratch my head is that you say it varies, from rich to lean at idle. Any pattern? Is it correlated to something? Engine temp perhaps? |
13.1 here. Always been like that, stock injectors and 460's. Anything over 14 and its flaky.
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Originally Posted by DammitBeavis
(Post 228049)
Watch the video, it's not 5:1
I re read his first post. Now I see. I cant watch the video cause im at work.:( |
Originally Posted by Saml01
(Post 228046)
Could the base idle pressure on the AFPR be set wrong?
Can a car even idle at 5:1 afr? Whats having me scratch my head is that you say it varies, from rich to lean at idle. Any pattern? Is it correlated to something? Engine temp perhaps? __________________ Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote |
Here's a couple things that I do know. The intake could be leaking pre turbo, but my vacuum holds steady a 19. After turbo I highly doubt it. I have the pcv routed with a sealed catch in the line. The breater on the drivers side is hooked up with a catch venting to the atmosphere. I removed that air valve that is attached to the intake manifold right above the fuel rail (I had this problem before that). My exhaust probably is leaking before the wideband O2.
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Im starting to think that my best bet is ignore these problem until I get my ms so I can remove the maf and until I get my new exhaust in a couple of weeks.
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just a thought because i have the AEM UEGO..... AFR's can't be read below 10.... i dunno how you're getting 5's and 4's n shit
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Originally Posted by xXxGoKoUxXx
(Post 228077)
just a thought because i have the AEM UEGO..... AFR's can't be read below 10.... i dunno how you're getting 5's and 4's n shit
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I'm going to ban the next person who mentions 4:1 or 5:1 AFR.....
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sorry... i was still on the first page when they were talking about 5:1 and by the time i posted you already yelled at him
MAN I DIDN"T EVEN KNOW THERE WAS A VIDEO! hahahahaha it just looked like a simple crop he made around the picture |
Originally Posted by levnubhin
(Post 227999)
Here are a few videos of my idle and AFR's. Please help me figure this out. I really want to get this fixed before I get my MS from Scott.
Thanks for your time. __________________ Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote |
Back on subject, anyone have any other ideas?
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I'm going to go out on a limb and say that your wideband is lying to you. There's either a missfire, a calibration issure, or you have a leak in your exhaust and it's sucking air. I don't think it's possible to have a smooth idle running that lean. Cold start would be a bitch if it's anything near 16:1.
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When you unplug the IAC you idle goes down? I thought that it would jump up to about 1500rpm.
Your AFR at idle doesn't look that unusual with an AFPR. I found my old BEGI AFPR to be inconsistent as hell. Things got 100% better when I went with a Link. |
If the idle is raising up then I'd suggest an air leak on the intake manifold which would make it run lean and raise the idle.
When you removed the air valve, how did you cap the hole off that was left behind? If there's a leak post AFM/MAF and before the throttle body then it would run pig rich when driving around but possibly not when idling if it can drag enough air in via the intake manifold. Worth checking those things anyway - also stick a jumper between TEN and GND in the diagnostic connector. This will bypass the ISC control from the ECU and allow you to check the base idle properly - it should be about 850rpm without any assistance from the ECU. |
Originally Posted by lwindridge
(Post 228118)
If the idle is raising up then I'd suggest an air leak on the intake manifold which would make it run lean and raise the idle.
When you removed the air valve, how did you cap the hole off that was left behind? If there's a leak post AFM/MAF and before the throttle body then it would run pig rich when driving around but possibly not when idling if it can drag enough air in via the intake manifold. Worth checking those things anyway - also stick a jumper between TEN and GND in the diagnostic connector. This will bypass the ISC control from the ECU and allow you to check the base idle properly - it should be about 850rpm without any assistance from the ECU. When I removed the air valve I put a metal plate with cork gasket to seal the hole. There is a good chance that there is a leak post maf before the turbo. If there is im not gonna bother with it as im waiting for my MS to come. __________________ Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote |
Though it would be handy to find out if you can trust your wideband readings if you're going to be driving it. Too lean = $$$
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Originally Posted by levnubhin
(Post 228106)
lmao
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well before I went to get some lunch I played with a couple things. I readjusted the idle at the TB and at the MAF. I test drove the car with the IAC disconnected but the idle was too high. I reconnected it and readjusted my idle. My AFR's look better but im actually very rich at WOT now 11-10. Cruise remains at 14-16 and light throttle around 13. My idle is still very lean 15.5-16. I dont really mind that because it idles fine. I just wish there wasnt so much flutcuation. Like I said earlier, once I get my MS and new exhaust, I will be able to rule out any leaks.
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well the stock computer is still fueling based on the NB o2....so it will sweep around....
btw, ill have your MS shipped monday. i wanted to throw it on my car this weekend before i shipped it out to make certain everything was functional. |
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