TeamPLUR

iTrader: (1)

in all honesty, ide like to take credit for all that glare, but its really only a saturation of light with my camera phone, my foglights are obnoxious, yea, but the headlights really aren't that bad, they have the little reflective cup aft the bulb and in all ford pickup-truck fairness, the light focuses pretty well, so before i got my second set to become a TRUE *******, the 8000k's in the stock reflectors really weren't that bad and even when i had the yellow HID fogs, the saturation of yellow was pretty intense, but really only glares to a blinding extent if u stared directly at it, i mean, can we really blame the sun for idiots staring into it?

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

$24.99 HIDS .... + $100 shipping to Canada. Nice.

Newbsauce

iTrader: (2)

They upped the shipping to canada to prevent you all from installing HIDs on your mooses.

miataz

iTrader: (1)

Lmao anything on ebay to ship to Canada is expensive its a joke...thats why you get it shipped to the states and pick it up. And you guys thought my lights were bright pshhh

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Anybody ever used the H4 "Bi-Xenon" kits that have a motorized movable reflector to switch the lamp between a Hi-Beam and Lo-Beam pattern? Curious as to how quick the response time on those is... Ie, can you still flash the hi-beams briefly?

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Joe, our cars turn the hi beam off when the low beam comes on, so if you run a standard HID H4, it will "strobe effect" if you use your FTP. I got the H4 HID w Halogen Hi capsule. Mine flashes between HID and halogen, and one of these weekend if I get some free time, I'll do a little re-wiring to keep the HID lamp activated with the hi beam.

I would be scared of Chinese moving parts in a $35 HID assembly

SamS

iTrader: (2)

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Diode isolation. Combine the Hi and Low lines to power the main HID relay, and tap the Hi line prior to the diode to run the motor:

Ah. Not so much a motor as a solenoid. How very clever.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

I know, I know. It's actually more a matter of getting to it, as there are more pressing things to be done. Both miata related and not.
I'm actually also going to make it so that my twilights come on with the parking lamp circuit, but then turn off with the headlights and illuminate the low filament on the 1157 turns instead. The 1157s will be low pro SMT LEDs, and I'll also rewire the side markers to flash with turn indicators (floating ground).

Oh, and I installed my SMT LED 1156 rear turnsignals last night. Impressively bad *** bulbs. Spoofed the flasher with a 4Ohm 25W resistor in parallel with each bulb. Damn, those bastards get HOT, so I'm going to remove them in favor of a hard wired "non reporting" flasher module.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Probably a bit much. 13.8 VDC through 4 ohms = 3.45A and 47.6 watts each. Not only are you wasting power, but that's gotta be murder on the flasher relay. The 1157 is only 27 watts on the hi filament.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Hmmm. I didn't bother to actually figure out what value resistor I'd need. Went off the recommendation of the FAQ at the webstore that sold me the LED bulbs. Thanks for doing what I was too lazy to do. In that regard, I think Fry's had 1.5 Ohm (or close) 25W resistors I'll pick up. Here's to doing work twice.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Guh? I'd think you'd want closer to 8 ohms total (per side). Can you just get another pair of the four ohm units?

Ben

iTrader: (33)

DEE DEE DEE
I meant 9.5 Ohm
stupid diagonals