LC-1 Problems? What is yours doing?
#1
LC-1 Problems? What is yours doing?
I notice the last time I dynoed, there was a significant difference (Like 2 points) between the dyno's WBO and my LC-1.
Now it seems that it may be getting worse. My cruising AFR used to be spot on around 14-14.5. Now they report as 16-16.5. Only problem is I still have soot on my tailpipe.
I know in other threads, others have had problems. What is yours doing when you call it "dead"?
Now it seems that it may be getting worse. My cruising AFR used to be spot on around 14-14.5. Now they report as 16-16.5. Only problem is I still have soot on my tailpipe.
I know in other threads, others have had problems. What is yours doing when you call it "dead"?
#4
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No, unplug the sensor from the controller, turn the ign on, count to 10, turn ign off, plug sensor back in, turn ign on. This will cause a full calibration. It should take like 2 minutes. If you don't have an xd gauge you can hook up your laptop to the lc to watch calibration progress.
The sensor needs to be in free air during calibration, or at least wait 12+ hours after running the car if the sensor has to stay in the pipe.
When is your AFR reporting lean? Idle, cruise, both? Lean at idle/light load but stoich under cruise is a vac leak and not a problem with the LC.
Ben
The sensor needs to be in free air during calibration, or at least wait 12+ hours after running the car if the sensor has to stay in the pipe.
When is your AFR reporting lean? Idle, cruise, both? Lean at idle/light load but stoich under cruise is a vac leak and not a problem with the LC.
Ben
#6
To be fair, I'm pretty sure I got one of the bad ones off Ebay.
First, I had batt voltage on analog 1 so I cut open the LC-1 case and fixed the short. Now, I've noticed the AFR gauge in MegaTune occasionally showing about 1.5 richer than it should be. When I restart it's fine again. I'm N/A and I have the stock ECU in parallel so I'm using it for a baseline 14.7 at idle.
I wasn't sure if it was MS or the LC-1. I'm thinking about ordering the JAW for $40 and using it for comparison.
BTW, on the quick calibration, when you ground out the black wire what's supposed to happen? I see the red light blink for 1/10 of a second then it comes back on. I was expecting something more like the 1st time cal where it takes a minute or two to complete.
First, I had batt voltage on analog 1 so I cut open the LC-1 case and fixed the short. Now, I've noticed the AFR gauge in MegaTune occasionally showing about 1.5 richer than it should be. When I restart it's fine again. I'm N/A and I have the stock ECU in parallel so I'm using it for a baseline 14.7 at idle.
I wasn't sure if it was MS or the LC-1. I'm thinking about ordering the JAW for $40 and using it for comparison.
BTW, on the quick calibration, when you ground out the black wire what's supposed to happen? I see the red light blink for 1/10 of a second then it comes back on. I was expecting something more like the 1st time cal where it takes a minute or two to complete.
#7
No, unplug the sensor from the controller, turn the ign on, count to 10, turn ign off, plug sensor back in, turn ign on. This will cause a full calibration. It should take like 2 minutes. If you don't have an xd gauge you can hook up your laptop to the lc to watch calibration progress.
The sensor needs to be in free air during calibration, or at least wait 12+ hours after running the car if the sensor has to stay in the pipe.
When is your AFR reporting lean? Idle, cruise, both? Lean at idle/light load but stoich under cruise is a vac leak and not a problem with the LC.
Ben
The sensor needs to be in free air during calibration, or at least wait 12+ hours after running the car if the sensor has to stay in the pipe.
When is your AFR reporting lean? Idle, cruise, both? Lean at idle/light load but stoich under cruise is a vac leak and not a problem with the LC.
Ben
WOT- Rock solid 13.8-13.9
Idle- Lean like cruise
I'll try the FULL calibration tonight. Thanks!
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