hood popped
 

Anyone drive around with the hood popped to the saftey latch? Wouldn't that be a great way to cool everything?

until the flies up, car cools better with it down do to the low presser under the hood sucking more air past the radiator

I was thinking add a raised latch and use taller rubber stops on the sides to keep everything safe. It would blow directly on the intake pipe, at least on my non ic car. That should be good for something? Plus, wouldn't it direct all the hot air out under the car?

Driving around with the front of the hood raised up would create more positive pressure in the engine compartment, this decreasing airflow through the radiator and intercooler.

This would be a Bad Thing™.

A simpler solution would be to get an intercooler. The "your hood is popped, dude" comments will easily outweigh the benefits (none).

:laugh: Alright, i'll take your word for it. As for the intercooler, i'm still waiting for my actuator to get here, so that will be a ways off.

Just lookin out for ya :hs:

Is the engine air cooled? I'm too tired to e-thug this guy, can someone please pick up my slack? I can't single handedly keep the trash out of this forum, I need help.

'Sup Hyper.

I would attempt to pick up the slack, but I too am too tired to come up with anything worthy, and too lazy to type it.

Can we come up with a Hustler e-thug emote? Then when Hustler is too tired from pulling one off, anyone could step up and drop the H-bomb

That being said, even in my weakened condition I would slap you like you name was Robyn Gibson and go so kung fu on your ass that it would take a small team of reconstructive surgeons to even put you back on par with the elephant man.

you know, i had a really good reply but someone is too weak stomached and girly to handle it so it was deleted.

OP. Thank the Brain as he just spared your ass.

So I'm assuming the only time cutting a vent in the front of the nose would be beneficial is if you also have a hood vent?

These are not the same thing. Popping the hood puts air over the top of the rad. Venting the nose requires proper fairing work but will put air through the heat exchangers.

I saw it.....:eek: I wish I hadn't

Related?

gay lovers.
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Cutting a vent in the front of the nose increases the air pressure on the front of the radiator.

Cutting a well placed vent in the hood decreases the air pressure behind the radiator.

The net effect of either is to increase the pressure differential across the radiator, and that's what leads to increased airflow through the radiator.

no damnit. what i had to say was meaningful and emotional.

At the end of the day, get a carbontrix vent and put it on the hood or get a hood from rharris. /

Alright, home from work and reading all these posts. I think the question was a legitimate one and i'm sure i'm not the only one to ever ponder the idea?

I will admit that the idea came to me shortly after a few bong hits while out in the garage but nevertheless.

To stoke the fire...since the front bumper is basically a half moon shape wouldn't air still be directed downward and into the radiator while also upward and under the popped hood? And to add gasoline...perhaps the incoming air entering the popped hood and forcing air down and out of the engine compartment may create a venturi effect on the air entering the radiator and help to suck even more air in?

Awaiting my beating.:hustler:

No, there are plenty of people who don't know how radiators work. You're not the only one.

You're not paying attention to anything here, are you?

Make it more simple. You do not want air under the hood. Is bad. No no.

:laugh:

You're a certified dumbass.

We used to have to pop the hood on our 84' Ford F-150 when hauling wagons with 300+ square bails (23,000+ pounds at some points). If you didn't, it would overheat. We were also traveling at 15-20mph MAX, so that could have something to do with it. When your traveling at anything above those speeds, as others have said, your better off with it closed.

Flounder - are you having overheating problems? If the answer is "no", then for god's sake don't touch a thing. Done. If "yes", then search for Hustler's cooling recipe.

Goddamnit let me post my nasty words and pic! This jackass deserves it! Just add nsfw to the title!

Nvm

Man, you guys need to shake the sand out of your vagina's.

I'm not overheating at all but I'm not really making much boost at the moment since I don't have an actuator yet. The wastegate is tied loosely shut, and I'm seeing like 3psi max. Half ass yes, but I'm impatient.

I did see a big difference in the temp of the intake pipe after popping the hood on back to back runs, the second run was almost cool to the touch while the first almost burned me. This was all in 90 degree weather but only at speeds up to about 60.

I realize the engine is not air cooled, hustler. But cool air over the intake pipe, air filter, and turbo can't be a bad thing. I guess I'll be that guy, and keep messing with it and see if I start overheating.

Yeah, you be that guy:

http://i30.tinypic.com/2zdox8i.jpg

And I don't wanna hear the scientific basis for conductive cooling
Y'all motherfuckers lying, and getting me pissed

Um...the temp of the turbo and piping has nothing to do with water temp. You need to read first, ask questions later. We've already told you and everyone else what to do a few dozen times now. We usually help out the first time you ask, but no one is going to spoon feed you...don't make me thin the herd.

I'm more or less just looking for ways to keep the charge cooler to help avoid knock while my system is not yet intercooled. The intake pipe is setup directly across the hood opening, it literally gets blasted with cool air while driving. Cooler air in, cooler air out, cooler engine overall.

You would think that the amount of air that would be rushing past the engine, would minimize the negative effects of having less positive pressure at the radiator mouth. Since the turbo is water cooled as well, keeping the turbo cooler would help to pull heat from the coolant.

I mean were talking about less than 2in of an opening with the hood popped. It's not like i'm racing around with the hood off.

I can't do hide the conspiracy any longer, you caught us...popping the hood is the "secret intercooler" that we've been using to make so much power and lower water temps. I must admit that I stole the idea from McLaren F1.

The watergate saga continues!

:bowrofl:

Wow... just wow. Some people are just incapable of listening or taking advice. Popping the hood WILL NOT help anything, end of story.

Hood off would be better then popped. For intake temp issues, run alky and quit worrying about it. Are you measuring iat temps or are you feeling your pipe and saying "wow" because its sitting in front of and behind two furnaces?

Or how about just back the timing down a few degrees and stop whining.

Pop the hood. While youre at it, another trick to lower compression and cool everything down at the same time us jb welding pennies to the top if your pistons. Ask joe perez. He can further edjucate you on this :)

another hour of comparison-

Took it out today along with my digital pyrometer and did some before/after testing with the same route and time frame. Temp outside is sunny and around 85F and running a rich tune of around 10.5-11.00to1, max boost 3-4psi. Timing retarded by 1-3 degrees from 3k-7k and i'm not hearing any knock either way.

Testing after first run with hood closed-
Temp at filter-131f
temp at last bend before TB-155f
temp at turbine-660f
temp at compressor 138f

Testing after second run with hood popped and safety wired-
at filter 113f
at last bend-134f
at turbine-630f
at compressor-122f

I never went over 60mph and my water temp gauge never went past half.

IDK? It seems to work at least a lower speeds, kinda afraid to go any faster with the hood up.

Are you guys seeing temps in the 750's at the collector on the log manifolds? Not used to that.

I can't believe you guys! The op has a great idea.

That being said flounder please execute operation "cool my engine via. partly popped hood" and post your findings. Before and after pics would be nice also.

Your way off man, silver dollars are where it's at. Only douchebags use pennies.

underhood temps != coolant temps

pop your hood and your underhood temps may go down while your engine/coolant temps go up

Better solution - search through build threads for:
1. Heat shielding on the turbo
2. Isolating/sealing the intake filter from the rest of the engine to form a 'cold air intake' of sorts

And unless you want to project the image of civics and integras running around with poorly made bodykits in gray primer that flap like wings where the bumpers form the wheel wells, and the right door smashed in and you can tell hasnt been fixed in years because of the rust, mismatched 'euro' style taillights, running on 19x5" wheels, and with a obnoxiously loud fart can exhaust that goes from 'weed eater' to 'chainsaw' when you step on the gas, all while a massive black sheen covers your rear bumper because you just decided to run super rich instead of tune the car properly....then close your damn hood, riceboy.

1 and 2 will definitely be on the way. This was only like the 5th time i've actually driven the car since the kit has been installed, thats why i'm running on the rich side. I'm still seeing 14-15 at idle, I just can't get an accurate tune until the wga gets here.

It doesn't even look that bad with it up. Second pic almost looks like some sort of an angry uni-brow.:naughty:

Hey, your hood isn't latched.

Cool, so you just proved exactly what everyone else was saying: that popping your hood allows a shit ton more air overtop of the radiator and not through it.

WHO GIVES A SHIT IF YOUR TURBINE IS 660°F OR 630°F?!!!!?

YOU WANNA KNOW WHY YOU'RE SCARED YOUR HOOD IS GOING TO FLY UP>?!?! BECAUSE YOU'RE CREATING POSITIVE PRESSURE BEHIND IT, WHICH MEAN LESS AIRFLOW THROUGH RADIATOR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Do you want me to do the math to show you how much power you gained from the filter temps of 131°F to 113°F without an intercooler netted you? cause that's the only place you just benefitted, but at the risk of overheating the motor.

There is only one appropriate response here.

http://img38.imagefra.me/img/img38/8...im_b2b8916.jpg

[QUOTE=Do you want me to do the math to show you how much power you gained from the filter temps of 131°F to 113°F without an intercooler netted you? cause that's the only place you just benefitted, but at the risk of overheating the motor.[/QUOTE]

Sure, that would be great. 21 degree difference at the tb is what most impressed me.

I understand the good/bad effects of doing this but at the psi i'm running and the fact that this is a weekend car with minimal stop and go driving I really don't feel like it's that big of a deal. I have a temp gauge and I will most def be monitoring it closely during these tests. The second I see anything over half way up the gauge, i'll shut the hood.

"However, it is always useful to get more air flow under hood. It is the incoming air flow that pushes all the hot air out."-Braineak from sticky in diy turbo.

Are you intake temperatures actually 23*F cooler...im going with no.


OKAY, Let boost be at 6 psi. The temp gain with turbo is about 14/15F per psi, or about 90°F.

On this 90°F ambient day, ambient absolute would be 90 + 460 = 550F.

The charge temp absolute would be about 550° + intake delta (131-90=41°) + another 90° from the turbo, which comes out to 681°F

Density would degrade by 550/681 = .807

The pressure ratio at 6 psi is 1.41.

With the heat from the turbo, then the 141% more density from compression will be degraded by .80 x 1.41, or to about 1.128.

With the hood popped, you saw intake temps drop 18°F.

Therefore, the charge temp absolute in this instance would be about 550° + intake delta (113-90=23°) + another 90° from the turbo, which comes out to 663°F.

Density would degrade by 550/663 = .83

With the heat from the turbo, then the 141% more density from compression will be degraded by .83 x 1.41, or to about 1.17.

With a 90% efficient IC, .90 of the 90°F temp rise will be taken out, or about 81°F removed, thus leaving a net gain of 9°F. This would leave a density loss of only 2% from the heat, or a net gain of 1.41 x .98 = 1.38

Hood down = overall gain of 12%, or 101rwhp
Hood popped = overall gain of 17% or 105rwhp
Intercooler = overall gain of 38% or 124rwhp

Thanks braineak. Thats the kind of info i'm looking for. Although I certainly hope i'm seeing better whp than those numbers with the 1.8l boosted?

So, there is something to be gained by allowing cooler air into the engine compartment, that's a given. But there are better/safer ways to achieve that goal than leaving the hood up a tad. I'm all for intercoolers but when I bought the non ic'd bypass pipes I was under the impression that they could be used in conjuction with an intercooler, I don't think that is the case and I already dropped $135 bucks extra to get it so i'm holding off on the IC probably until next season.

If the only negative effect of doing this besides the hood flying up and sending me blindly into oncoming traffic is higher coolant temps, then whats the harm in some trial and error testing while paying attention to the ect sensor?

Thanks Brain.

Now to thread jack myself... I just got back from my first freeway run, with the hood locked btw and although she pulls awesome in 5th from 80 to 100 the car shakes pretty bad. Is that the sweet unbalanced chinacharger i'm feeling? Never felt it in city driving?

If your hood flew up you can see under it so no blind driving needed. I recommend for about $40 you:

-Shut your hood all the way
-Seal around your radiator/make some ducting
-drain your coolant and fill it with distilled water and some antifreeze
-buy some sheet metal and make a heat shield

Or for about $250 you:
-buy an intercooler, piping, and fab up something that doesn't suck...you could even (try to) sell your pipes to cut the price down even more

Or add a 5th injector...I agree your turbo is making your car shake. Better get that shit balanced.

lol, I bet you have severe detonation.

Yeah, that's hilarious hustler. AFR was looking good although a tad rich and I can't hear shit for knock even with the windows up. Plus, i have a knock sensor thats hopefully doing it's job.:x:

It is hot as shit out today, i'll wait until it cools down and do another freeway run to compare.

Just because its fat doesn't mean you're free from detonation. That knock sensor doesn't do a god damn thing. Apologize to me for your shitty attitude and I might look at your spark table and tell you what's wrong.

This thread makes me want to club baby seals... with dead babies.

Have at it chief. My attitude isn't shitty, I happen to be a very easy going individual with a great deal of patience for people. If you look at most of my threads, the fireworks are usually coming from others.

background on car. 99 with stock pump and injectors running emb. Seeing around 75-80% DC max with that fuel table and under boost i'm seeing afr's in the mid 10's-mid 11's.

No apology, no assistance.

Just because you are pushing out all the hot air out of the engine compartment doesn't mean a thing for coolant temps. You need airflow through the radiator. To get that airflow you need a pressure differential. IE High pressure in front of rad and low pressure behind hit (relatively that is). The air in front is at a higher pressure due to being collercted at the pressure center at the front of tha car and the air passing the underside of the engine compartment creates a lower pressure zone (thats why you see a difference with or without the belly pan) that creates your differential pressure accross the rad. Now when you push in the higher pressure air into the engine compartment with propped hoods, scoops, or teh raised rear hinge mods you will move air through the engine compartment and lower temps in there a little but greatly reduce the effeciency of the radiator or intercooler or anything that you are trying to suck air through at the front of the engine compartment.
Simply keep your flow through the radiator.

You are doing the right thing by taking measurements and trying to study stuff. Just make sure you really understand what you are looking for.

On a different note. Don't screw with a hood that is not propperly latched! On my first car I had just spent a load of cash redoing the head gasket when on the first test drive at 30 mph, BOOM! The hood flies up, cracks my windhield in three places, bends up the hood and all kinds of sheetmetal as wheel. It was pushed down and I thought it was latched. So, in short, DON'T screw with it.

Your are a certifiable fucking idiot. If you want lower coolant temps, follow the advice given above. If you want cooler air temps, install a fresh air intake. You wouldn't put a cast on your arm to fix a broken leg would you? You fucking dumbass.

And Christ almighty quit with the popped hood shit.