How do I get to these bolts (Greddy Manifold/Turbo)
 

Edit 2: Update on post 21



Edit:

Well things got worse today, replaced all the bolts from turbo to down pipe. Started to tighten the ones from manifold to turbo and one of the heads broke off. What is the best way to get to the bolt that is closest to the driver on the drivers side. Very tough location, no clue even how to get a wrench on it...











How do I get the damn bottom bolt started on the begi downpipe going to the greddy turbo. Just the one on the bottom. Such tight space how the fuck do I get a bolt started?


Took the old ones out and the threads were melted, how can I get new one started?:vash::vash::vash::vash::vash:

My guess is lots of extensions and swivels, otherwise no idea. Pics?

I just got done with the same problem only I was attaching the dp to a chinacharger. The only way I was able to make it work was to find a shorter stud and then hammer the dp in that area enough so that your able to sneak the nut on there, then it's a 1/4 turn at a time until its tight. Shorty wrenches are your friend!

Since yours is stripped out, your probably gonna have to use vice grips to remove the old stud. If it doesnt turn easy, STOP and use heat first then slowly try again.

I was able to get the bolt out, but I'm trying to get the new one done. I guess it's just a 1.4 turn at a time.

did you strip out the threads on the turbo side? May be better off pulling the turbo and chasing it with a tap first to be safe.

I don't think anythis is stripped out, It's just a HUGE PAIN to get the bolt on the bottom to wrench it in.

Well things got worse today, replaced all the bolts from turbo to down pipe. Started to tighten the ones from manifold to turbo and one of the heads broke off. What is the best way to get to the bolt that is closest to the driver on the drivers side. Very tough location, no clue even how to get a wrench on it...

I have a closed, angled wrench that I put upside down (so the handle angles toward the ground) and just barely managed to get it on the head and turn it ~.125 of a rotation until it's tight. I can actually get my hand in there to hand tighten it marginally faster until it's snug. For the other three bolts I'm using Nordlock washers and SS allen bolts from Ace. With a ball end allen wrench and a pipe (or the 14mm wrench I use for the 4th bolt) I can tighten them quickly and easily. The Nordlock washers are more of just a washer than any kind of locking mechanism, since as you know they stretch, not rotate. That one you're describing was replaced with a helicoil by the previous owner, if you're using the stock M8 hardware, it's probably a 12mm wrench, not 14mm like mine. Good luck.

I see, thanks. What brand is the wrench/ link if possible?


Also, links to these bolts you use?


I took the compressor side of the turbo off to get better access, is that a bad idea?

Low-pro snap-on ratchets are pretty nice too. Not only are they low-pro to get into tighter spaces but it takes more clicks to make a full rotation if that makes any sense, so it takes less time/effort to get those "1/4 turn at a time" bolts out.

I believe the wrench I'm using is craftsman, lemme get a link for ya...

something simple and common like this:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...o=3&blockType=

Trick is he needs an angled one, I doubt you'd find a ratcheting one that would both fit and be angled.

The bolts are any generic hardware store stainless steel allen bolts. They turn a pretty purple/blue one they get hot too.

The only thing I have to remove when I tighten them is the heat shield. Shouldn't need to remove half the turbo.

I'm not rich though :(

Yeah I've been using the M8, I saw Ace had some M8 with allen heads that are the high heat treated (black colored)


Wouldn't these be better than SS?

No, they're more brittle. With the high heat and physical stress they see, I always assumed they'd snap. I'd rather they stretch a little bit, I can still get them out. I've had much better luck with the SS keeping them tight then with the crappy stuff I had before that. They last 20 minutes at the track, instead of 18.

How often do you replace these things? :o


So you used the plain ol L shaped allen wrenches?

Yup, the slightly longer ones, with a ball on the end. One or two of the three you can reach will still need the wrench to be at a bit of an angle. Then put the closed box wrench on the small side of the "L", and use it as a bit of a breaker bar. Not too much, torque, just reasonably snug.

I haven't replaced the screws yet, only did one track day with them, I'll probably replace them before each one. They're only $1 I think. Metric and stainless, that'll empty your bank account quickly. I think the worst was when I did my motorcycle, three or four trips, $30-40 each time.

Here, since I had to do it anyways, I took some pictures. Once you get the SS allen bolts from a hardware store, along with the one hex bolt in the rear driver side hole, assemble your tools. For me it was a 10mm socket for the heat shield, a 14mm closed angled wrench, and a 6mm balled allen wrench.
Attachment 196302
Remove heat shield using 10mm socket and spring loaded pin (pictured on VC).
Attachment 196303
Tighten three allen bolts with allen wrench, using box wrench for leverage.
Attachment 196304
Place box wrench upside down on 4th and final bolt, reaching in under brake lines or around from front to tighten.
Attachment 196305
Replace heatshield, and you're done. Including opening and closing the hood and taking pictures, that took me 10 minutes or so. It's that or spend half a dozen hundred dollars to someone to build you a V-band manifold/downpipe setup.

Thanks sir, will attempt when I'm not buzzed. :)

Well got the bolts, and ballallen set (wtf regular ones were $5 ball ones were $21)

Tell me about it, I wrench for a living so I see the the big three (mac, matco, snapon) on a weekly basis. They're always trying to sell me some rediculously overpriced tool. And snapon? I honestly don't know who can afford their tools, or boxes for that matter? $13,000 for a double bay lower box? :bowrofl:

Well after hours of trying to get the last bolt out of the exhaust manifold, I was able to cut it out with like 20 dremel bits. SO now I am left with 3 of the 4 studs still in the manifold with no heads. How do I get them out? :vash::vash::crx:

drill them out

Best way to do this? I've never had to do it before...

Is the turbo off now? with studs sticking out of it?

Yes exhaust side is out, studs are sticking out of the manifold.

oh, well you need to drill the bolts on a drill press very carefully, make sure to go right in the middle, and straight up and down (which is why you need the drill press, and not just a hand drill)
Then use an extractor to pull them out, an extractor looks like this in case you dont know
http://0.tqn.com/d/homerepair/1/5/V/..._extractor.jpg

Manifold is still on the head though :ohnoes:

Don't do that, you have an incredibly high likelyhood of snapping the easy-out, and it's carbide, nothing short d dynamite will be able to get through it at that point. Use some brand new vice grips with incredibly nice(grippy) jaws, tighten the living shit out of them, and after soaking all studs in as much penatrating oil as possible, SLOWLY back them out. Do NOT try this with 20 minutes of daylight after do dinner, give yourself some time, you don't want to fuck it up.

PB Blaster soaking plus vise grips got all 3 out :D


Now I'm trying to put the new ones in, 3 with allen heads, hard to get in there... gah

You're welcome.

Like I said, everything but the rear drivers side should be EASILY accessable with a ball end Allen wrench, the ~6" kind. Are you sure you have the right bolts, and did you chase the threads with a tap first? Make sure they go in easily without the turbo before you try to bolt it all up.

Just went and got tap/die set from Harbor Freight. Also got ratcheting wrench, ball head bit for socket wrench and other shit. All for $30


HF FTW

Hopefully that large ball end allen socket will fit in there. That's much bulkier than the 6mm thick wrench I use.

Oh no I also bought standard L shaped ball set last week.

Well I got everythign back in, upon tightening the SS allen head bolt to manifold (top left from side of car) I stripped out the head when tourqing it down, so when I have to take it all back out I have to worry about that. BUT everything is good now, NO LEAKS. WOOT

Good job, don't tighten them that much. Hold it as straight as possible, and get it just a fair amount past snug, no more.

This will help you get the bolt out:
http://www.absurdflow.com/miata/stdv...bsurdflow4.jpg
I always welded nuts onto broken studs to get them out.

I got the bolts out so everything is in. But created a new problem when I stripped the inside of the allen. Guess I don't have to worry about it till i swap the hot stuff.

How do you guys tighten the bottom 10mm nut on DP that bolts to the Greddy TDO4 turbo. I have the Racing mazda fat DP.
I got the nut started as I started others which are bolts not studs but can't get a 10mm wrench on the one nut...
I have open end and boxed ends and sockets that of course won't fit.

Thanks

Wow this sounds horrible. Vband should be mandatory for the universe

V bands are nice but not right this minute....

I managed to make mine happen (with a 2.5" TurboTony DP) going very, very slowly with a short, angled, open-end wrench. Rotate it 1/12th of a turn, flip the wrench over and go another 1/12th of a turn, etc.

A general word of advice: Copper-bearing anti seize compound is our friend. I had to pull the head on my engine after the turbo had been on for a couple of years, and the bolts came out perfectly.

mine's a 12mm wrench for the DP nuts, and I have a 2.5" DP as well. I used the angled closed end of my wrench, it barely turns it, so it takes a while. Not too bad after I get it as tight as possible with my fingers though. That's the worst nut in the entire setup.

Thanks guys!!

I have to buy a couple of angled wrenches.

I used a thin film of red high temperature RTV between the turbo and the manifold as a gasket but no antiseize on the bolts.
Between the DP and the turbo I used metal leayered gasket.
Guess tomorrow I'll go back and remove them one at a time and use AZ.

I'll finish this freaking install some day :giggle:

Great idea. That red RTV is good to 600* so you should be safe considering that's only 1000*f less than your exhaust temp.

I'm such a cool guy that even my exhaust is cool ;)