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Old 07-02-2010, 06:40 PM   #1
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Default How do I get to these bolts (Greddy Manifold/Turbo)

Edit 2: Update on post 21



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Well things got worse today, replaced all the bolts from turbo to down pipe. Started to tighten the ones from manifold to turbo and one of the heads broke off. What is the best way to get to the bolt that is closest to the driver on the drivers side. Very tough location, no clue even how to get a wrench on it...











How do I get the damn bottom bolt started on the begi downpipe going to the greddy turbo. Just the one on the bottom. Such tight space how the **** do I get a bolt started?


Took the old ones out and the threads were melted, how can I get new one started?

Last edited by jbrown7815; 07-06-2010 at 01:49 PM.
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Old 07-02-2010, 06:55 PM   #2
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My guess is lots of extensions and swivels, otherwise no idea. Pics?
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Old 07-02-2010, 07:49 PM   #3
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I just got done with the same problem only I was attaching the dp to a chinacharger. The only way I was able to make it work was to find a shorter stud and then hammer the dp in that area enough so that your able to sneak the nut on there, then it's a 1/4 turn at a time until its tight. Shorty wrenches are your friend!

Since yours is stripped out, your probably gonna have to use vice grips to remove the old stud. If it doesnt turn easy, STOP and use heat first then slowly try again.
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Old 07-02-2010, 09:39 PM   #4
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I was able to get the bolt out, but I'm trying to get the new one done. I guess it's just a 1.4 turn at a time.
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Old 07-02-2010, 10:17 PM   #5
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did you strip out the threads on the turbo side? May be better off pulling the turbo and chasing it with a tap first to be safe.
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Old 07-02-2010, 10:24 PM   #6
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I don't think anythis is stripped out, It's just a HUGE PAIN to get the bolt on the bottom to wrench it in.
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Old 07-03-2010, 05:39 PM   #7
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Well things got worse today, replaced all the bolts from turbo to down pipe. Started to tighten the ones from manifold to turbo and one of the heads broke off. What is the best way to get to the bolt that is closest to the driver on the drivers side. Very tough location, no clue even how to get a wrench on it...
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Old 07-03-2010, 05:49 PM   #8
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I have a closed, angled wrench that I put upside down (so the handle angles toward the ground) and just barely managed to get it on the head and turn it ~.125 of a rotation until it's tight. I can actually get my hand in there to hand tighten it marginally faster until it's snug. For the other three bolts I'm using Nordlock washers and SS allen bolts from Ace. With a ball end allen wrench and a pipe (or the 14mm wrench I use for the 4th bolt) I can tighten them quickly and easily. The Nordlock washers are more of just a washer than any kind of locking mechanism, since as you know they stretch, not rotate. That one you're describing was replaced with a helicoil by the previous owner, if you're using the stock M8 hardware, it's probably a 12mm wrench, not 14mm like mine. Good luck.
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Old 07-03-2010, 05:53 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
I have a closed, angled wrench that I put upside down (so the handle angles toward the ground) and just barely managed to get it on the head and turn it ~.125 of a rotation until it's tight. I can actually get my hand in there to hand tighten it marginally faster until it's snug. For the other three bolts I'm using Nordlock washers and SS allen bolts from Ace. With a ball end allen wrench and a pipe (or the 14mm wrench I use for the 4th bolt) I can tighten them quickly and easily. The Nordlock washers are more of just a washer than any kind of locking mechanism, since as you know they stretch, not rotate. That one you're describing was replaced with a helicoil by the previous owner, if you're using the stock M8 hardware, it's probably a 12mm wrench, not 14mm like mine. Good luck.



I see, thanks. What brand is the wrench/ link if possible?


Also, links to these bolts you use?


I took the compressor side of the turbo off to get better access, is that a bad idea?
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Old 07-03-2010, 05:57 PM   #10
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Low-pro snap-on ratchets are pretty nice too. Not only are they low-pro to get into tighter spaces but it takes more clicks to make a full rotation if that makes any sense, so it takes less time/effort to get those "1/4 turn at a time" bolts out.
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Old 07-03-2010, 06:01 PM   #11
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I believe the wrench I'm using is craftsman, lemme get a link for ya...

something simple and common like this:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...o=3&blockType=

Trick is he needs an angled one, I doubt you'd find a ratcheting one that would both fit and be angled.

The bolts are any generic hardware store stainless steel allen bolts. They turn a pretty purple/blue one they get hot too.

The only thing I have to remove when I tighten them is the heat shield. Shouldn't need to remove half the turbo.
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Old 07-03-2010, 06:01 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KPLAFIN View Post
Low-pro snap-on ratchets are pretty nice too. Not only are they low-pro to get into tighter spaces but it takes more clicks to make a full rotation if that makes any sense, so it takes less time/effort to get those "1/4 turn at a time" bolts out.


I'm not rich though :(
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Old 07-03-2010, 06:04 PM   #13
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Yeah I've been using the M8, I saw Ace had some M8 with allen heads that are the high heat treated (black colored)


Wouldn't these be better than SS?
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Old 07-03-2010, 06:07 PM   #14
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No, they're more brittle. With the high heat and physical stress they see, I always assumed they'd snap. I'd rather they stretch a little bit, I can still get them out. I've had much better luck with the SS keeping them tight then with the crappy stuff I had before that. They last 20 minutes at the track, instead of 18.
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Old 07-03-2010, 06:20 PM   #15
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How often do you replace these things?


So you used the plain ol L shaped allen wrenches?
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Old 07-03-2010, 06:46 PM   #16
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Yup, the slightly longer ones, with a ball on the end. One or two of the three you can reach will still need the wrench to be at a bit of an angle. Then put the closed box wrench on the small side of the "L", and use it as a bit of a breaker bar. Not too much, torque, just reasonably snug.

I haven't replaced the screws yet, only did one track day with them, I'll probably replace them before each one. They're only $1 I think. Metric and stainless, that'll empty your bank account quickly. I think the worst was when I did my motorcycle, three or four trips, $30-40 each time.
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Old 07-03-2010, 07:35 PM   #17
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Here, since I had to do it anyways, I took some pictures. Once you get the SS allen bolts from a hardware store, along with the one hex bolt in the rear driver side hole, assemble your tools. For me it was a 10mm socket for the heat shield, a 14mm closed angled wrench, and a 6mm balled allen wrench.
Name:  boltpictures003.jpg
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Remove heat shield using 10mm socket and spring loaded pin (pictured on VC).
Name:  boltpictures004.jpg
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Tighten three allen bolts with allen wrench, using box wrench for leverage.
Name:  boltpictures002.jpg
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Place box wrench upside down on 4th and final bolt, reaching in under brake lines or around from front to tighten.
Name:  boltpictures001.jpg
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Replace heatshield, and you're done. Including opening and closing the hood and taking pictures, that took me 10 minutes or so. It's that or spend half a dozen hundred dollars to someone to build you a V-band manifold/downpipe setup.
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Old 07-03-2010, 07:48 PM   #18
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Thanks sir, will attempt when I'm not buzzed.
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Old 07-03-2010, 09:52 PM   #19
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Well got the bolts, and ballallen set (wtf regular ones were $5 ball ones were $21)
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Old 07-03-2010, 11:05 PM   #20
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Quote:
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I'm not rich though :(
Tell me about it, I wrench for a living so I see the the big three (mac, matco, snapon) on a weekly basis. They're always trying to sell me some rediculously overpriced tool. And snapon? I honestly don't know who can afford their tools, or boxes for that matter? $13,000 for a double bay lower box?
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