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Because of how sensitive the LC1 is, I am going to add run another ground to it. Completely stupid I think because it worked flawlessly since may and all through the summer, but since my tune is perfect, I am not in a rush to spend money on a sensor.
Will let ya'll know. |
My LC-1 has 30K miles on it. No problems.
Stephanie |
I've had terrible luck with the Innovate stuff. The AEM, i replaced the sensor once on the Miata, mostly because I buggered the threads on the first one.
I'm hoping Innovate has stepped up their game, because for a handheld unit, the new LM-2 is pretty cool. OBDII logging, and all kinds of stuff. We got a few in and I fondled the unit for a couple minutes. |
Originally Posted by Joe Perez
(Post 349237)
How do I say this gently? All the folks who are having trouble with their LC-1 are retards. :D
In all seriousness. The LC-1 is sensitive to supply voltage. Wire it in a way that it is not energized during cranking. Mine takes power from the battery through a relay that's switched by the radio's supply. It's also important that the LC1 be grounded to the same ground as the ECU, as close as possible to the ECU. Satisfy those two concerns, and don't mount the sensor too close to the engine, and I doubt you'll have much trouble. Perhaps, but I've even had problems with my LM-1 on the dyno, and it's running off wall power.. It gets the same sensor errors that the one's i've had in cars do. |
25k on my LC-1. It's grounded to ECU and pulls power from the Meter fuse under the dash. Sensor in the stock O2 location. You all suck.
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My LC1 works fine after 15k and it is hooked up the same as savingtons. I did have trouble with the heater calibration at first, but that was solved with a full calibration (disconnect sensor from the controller and power it up, then plug it back in and power it up again ... in free air of course)
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Replaced my old sensor yesterday, and the controller is working perfect again. I wish I would have know a week ago this was the issue. But remember although my sensor died it was in the stock location, and I just recently added a heat sink. I would bet it would have lasted longer if it were a foot further away from the header.
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The LM-1 I use is a friend of mine`s, it has 4-5k with me and probably 15k with him.
still works good. |
No personal experiance, but Ive installed 2 LC-1's and havent heard about much bad from either user. I think I have decided to go Zeitronix with their LCD display, since it displays multiple values (EGT, Boost, A/F, Lambda) in one nice looking display. Keep it stock looking. Plus Im severely ---- about my gauges matching, and I wouldnt be able to do it well enough to not bother the shit out of my daily.
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Cooked my first sensor - LC1 - don't mount it in the stock n/b hole though others have no problem. Seems very sensitive in terms of the data it processes which I guess is a good thing.
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My LC-1's been going strong for just over a year and ~10K miles. Amazing what a wideband can do when you follow the directions.
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My AEM gauge has given me nothing but perfect service since I installed it. I ran pig lean for a very short time, and am now running pig rich due to lack of time to tune and to play it safe. I only have about 5k on mine though.
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Mine is still acting retarded.
Let the car sit at idle for 20 min, and it works fine. Rev the car several times and it gives error 8. |
Originally Posted by Saml01
(Post 354836)
Let the car sit at idle for 20 min, and it works fine. Rev the car several times and it gives error 8.
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i had to replace the sensor every couple of months on my LC-1, but i am still on my factory sensor on my AEM. i would say about 1500 pig rich miles on my probe and about 4000 or so on the miata.
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