Ideas with a no start/kinda start 1993 miata
I have a 1993 Miata, 1.6, ebay type turbo kit and a SpeedyEFI. The car when I bought it already had this stuff on/in it and was a non runner. I installed a new turbo feed line and spark plug wires and it made it a car that ran, not really drivable because just a base tune. Anyway the car was running and I shut it off and it would not restart just turn over. If eventually tried ti start and missed horribly finding out that cylinder 2 & 3 had no spark I just ordered up a new coil pack. Tossed it on the car started for a second or 2 then died. Again no spark on 2 & 3. returned the coil pack for a new one. Car no start still no spark on 2 & 3. I now have the original coil pack a new one that the car will not run off of and a brand new one that has not been hooked up or installed. I started taking a couple of measurements from all 3 coils. Got similar or close reading from all 3 coils. For coils 2&3 I got 11400-11800 ohms on all 3. on the 1&4 coils I got 10k-11800 ohms on all 3 coil packs. on the plug I got 1 ohm between the red & white wires across all 3 coil packs along with 1 ohm between the red & white w/ black line on all 3 coil packs. So I feel like Im either testing the wrong points of the coil packs or I may have some other issue going on. Im hoping someone may have a little insite for me to dig into before I start scratching my scalp off as Im a bald guy with no hair on the head to pull out.
Thank you for any feedback, guidance or assistance offered |
I was thinking maybe I can see if there is a signal not being sent from the ECU to tell the coil to fire? I see the 2 triggers from the ECU should read 0 volts with key on. So output 1G Ignitor terminal B (black with Yellow wire) I get 450 mil volts when I turn the key on and when I crank the car over it seems to drop a touch to the 350 mil volt. The pin 1H Igniter Terminal G (white with yellow) I got a 1-2 mil volt reading and seemed to fluctuate around single digit mil volts while cranking. I have not been able to find anything on how to properly check this though.
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A busted igniter could definitely act like this. turn the key on and see if the igniter gets hot.
Did you get those readings while the igniter was plugged in? |
Originally Posted by Keuzy
(Post 1615836)
A busted igniter could definitely act like this. turn the key on and see if the igniter gets hot.
Did you get those readings while the igniter was plugged in? |
yea the tach is fed by the igniter. and if the igniter is only putting out half the pulses...
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Originally Posted by Keuzy
(Post 1615845)
yea the tach is fed by the igniter. and if the igniter is only putting out half the pulses...
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It's showing rich now that it's running on all cylinders because without those 2 cylinders firing your o2 sensor was seeing extra oxygen. You will never see accurate AFR when you're misfiring.
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Originally Posted by SpartanSV
(Post 1615896)
It's showing rich now that it's running on all cylinders because without those 2 cylinders firing your o2 sensor was seeing extra oxygen. You will never see accurate AFR when you're misfiring.
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Originally Posted by jjhenke79
(Post 1615875)
I think that was the ticket!!! I just started it and checked for spark at all 4 coils and I did!!!! It was running very rich so I just shut it down and went back to work. I will mess with it more later now that I have spark at all 4 cylinders, I feel I am on te right track!!! Thank you Keuzy I greatly appreciate your feedback and input.
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Originally Posted by Keuzy
(Post 1615911)
my man! congratulations!
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