Ideas with a no start/kinda start 1993 miata
#1
Ideas with a no start/kinda start 1993 miata
I have a 1993 Miata, 1.6, ebay type turbo kit and a SpeedyEFI. The car when I bought it already had this stuff on/in it and was a non runner. I installed a new turbo feed line and spark plug wires and it made it a car that ran, not really drivable because just a base tune. Anyway the car was running and I shut it off and it would not restart just turn over. If eventually tried ti start and missed horribly finding out that cylinder 2 & 3 had no spark I just ordered up a new coil pack. Tossed it on the car started for a second or 2 then died. Again no spark on 2 & 3. returned the coil pack for a new one. Car no start still no spark on 2 & 3. I now have the original coil pack a new one that the car will not run off of and a brand new one that has not been hooked up or installed. I started taking a couple of measurements from all 3 coils. Got similar or close reading from all 3 coils. For coils 2&3 I got 11400-11800 ohms on all 3. on the 1&4 coils I got 10k-11800 ohms on all 3 coil packs. on the plug I got 1 ohm between the red & white wires across all 3 coil packs along with 1 ohm between the red & white w/ black line on all 3 coil packs. So I feel like Im either testing the wrong points of the coil packs or I may have some other issue going on. Im hoping someone may have a little insite for me to dig into before I start scratching my scalp off as Im a bald guy with no hair on the head to pull out.
Thank you for any feedback, guidance or assistance offered
Thank you for any feedback, guidance or assistance offered
#2
I was thinking maybe I can see if there is a signal not being sent from the ECU to tell the coil to fire? I see the 2 triggers from the ECU should read 0 volts with key on. So output 1G Ignitor terminal B (black with Yellow wire) I get 450 mil volts when I turn the key on and when I crank the car over it seems to drop a touch to the 350 mil volt. The pin 1H Igniter Terminal G (white with yellow) I got a 1-2 mil volt reading and seemed to fluctuate around single digit mil volts while cranking. I have not been able to find anything on how to properly check this though.
#4
Yes those would be with the ignitor plugged in. I do have a new ignitor showing up in the am. Monday went quite odd. I had ordered a CAS and stuck it in and it fired up and idled smother and better than it ever has which allowed me to drive it around the block. But my tach was reading different than my laptop was showing. Laptop was showing double what my guages was and it was running really rich. Come to find out after a bit of looking the dang thing is still only running on 2 cylinders so I said F^#! It and ordered a new ignitor. If this doesn't do much I feel I'm down to I have a wire issue somewhere. Other than the wire harness that plugs into the injectors being hacked on the rest of the harness looks very unmolested. I rewired the boost and afr guages and put them in a piller pod mount and there was not even a T tap under the driver's dash or a cut wire. I was kinda surprised
#6
#8
#9
I think that was the ticket!!! I just started it and checked for spark at all 4 coils and I did!!!! It was running very rich so I just shut it down and went back to work. I will mess with it more later now that I have spark at all 4 cylinders, I feel I am on te right track!!! Thank you Keuzy I greatly appreciate your feedback and input.
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thirdgen
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09-09-2010 11:16 AM