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Old 04-29-2011, 02:30 PM   #1
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Default IM/Cam for high boost/HP

I've been reading up on IM in my spare time, and from what I have read they produce a noticeable gain across the entire powerband, but more gains as the RPM/boost goes up. I know of three solutions so far (begi, RP, someone else on the forum).

Is the begi solution any different from the RP one really? I know the RP one is built to suit, which is a benefit.. I assume if I get an IM and a mustang tb, I will need a new throttle cable and pipe from IC to IM, since the TB hole will be bigger, correct?

As for cams, I've read around but it seems the general consensus is there's nothing out that's good for power down load as well as high on the power band. Has there been any real changes?

I'm probably looking at pushing 20psi with a power goal of over 300 until I decide if I want to run hydromist.
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Old 04-29-2011, 02:35 PM   #2
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If you're just going for 300 you won't really need either. I'd either have a honda one retrofitted or get Gotpsi? to build you a sheetmetal one. Both cost less than the begi IIRC.

No idea on cams but everything I've seen confirms your prediction no gain in the lowend.

*edit: just noticed you said OVER 300. What turbo/setup will you be working with?
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Old 04-29-2011, 03:33 PM   #3
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Right now I have a china 2871 from begi, it's performing much, MUCH better after I put 3" exhaust and cut out all the baffling.

I'll just list everything :P

99 Head (no porting atm) - I'll probably pull this and have it ported+polished, oversize SS valves and stiffer springs this coming winter.
Wiseco pistons (1mm overbore)
Carillo rods
Stock balancer (ATI super same time I do the head work)
Hydra
3" turbo back
Toyota COPs in sequential

I'll probably bump the redline to 8k when I do the headwork if the engine with intake shows it can maintain power..
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Old 04-29-2011, 03:37 PM   #4
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Sounds like a simple yet effective setup. I like it. Doubt you'll need cams for that unless you plan to hold power flat to redline.
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Old 04-29-2011, 03:42 PM   #5
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Blah my power held to redline with gutted mani just fine
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Old 04-29-2011, 03:58 PM   #6
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You gutted the 99 intake? What all did that entail?
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Old 04-29-2011, 04:02 PM   #7
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It entailed reaming the ever living **** out of the intake until it looked like this:

https://www.miataturbo.net/methanol-water-injection-22/port-wi-build-thread-43475/
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Old 04-29-2011, 04:37 PM   #8
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I'm digging through your thread trying to find the dyno chart, goddamn time consuming

Edit - Phil @ Element Tuning says he might make a trip to Detroit this season if there's enough interest. Would be pretty badass if I could get in on a tune with him...
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Old 05-01-2011, 02:57 PM   #9
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Do you happen to have a dyno of that? I'm still researching right now, but if the gains are almost the same, well.. And do you run the stock tbody?
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Old 05-01-2011, 03:02 PM   #10
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I think he posted that in the dyno section, not his build thread.
he ran an oversized tbody iirc.
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Old 05-01-2011, 05:17 PM   #11
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Why gut it when you can use the vics to make dual lenght runners that open at higher rpms?
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Old 05-01-2011, 06:42 PM   #12
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Because the manifold starts choking up at higher power levels.
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Old 05-01-2011, 07:09 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Der_Idiot View Post
Do you happen to have a dyno of that? I'm still researching right now, but if the gains are almost the same, well.. And do you run the stock tbody?
The only chart I have that is digitized is this one. And the power drops on this because of throttle lift off.

Stock throttle body. BEGI type 3 intercooler. Small IC piping. GT3071 .82 A/R



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Old 05-01-2011, 10:38 PM   #14
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Your question about cams is very noobish.

You CAN have cams that make more power everywhere, you just run the same duration (and open/close timing) with greater lift, or go to solid lifters and go with greater lift (valves open further) and greater ramp rate (valves open faster so open at full lift for longer).
Its the duration that determines (in the most part) where your torque curve is on the dyno plot, its lift that makes torque (im oversimplifying this).

If you just go to a long duration cam (lets say 270 degrees) then you will make more power up top, rev harder and because you have increased the rpm where your torque is produced you power increases (power is torque multiplied by rpm, so if rpm increases so does power, assuming that you have the same torque up there).

If you change to solid lifters, that allows you to go to a cam with similar duration as stock (they will start to open and be closed at the same time for the same duration of lift, therefore not moving the power band) but you can have much more agressive lift and ramp rates, so they will open to full lift very soon after they first open, and hang there for longer letting more fuel in, not to mention they can now open much higher as well as for more time at full lift. More mixture means more torque everywhere, but you wont have changed the power band.

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Old 05-02-2011, 02:13 AM   #15
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I'll point out the NB HEAD section of my sig and the second reply (from me) pointing out that I have a 99 head. :P

But thanks for the details, it's informative.

Last edited by Der_Idiot; 05-02-2011 at 02:29 AM.
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Old 05-02-2011, 02:45 AM   #16
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Sorry what does that have to do with my post? 99+ heads have solid lifters stock?

Dann
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Old 05-02-2011, 09:06 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrodann View Post
Sorry what does that have to do with my post? 99+ heads have solid lifters stock?

Dann
Yes.
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Old 05-02-2011, 07:19 PM   #18
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Default BEGi Intake...

The foundary finally sent Corky enough cast runners to meet his expectations, so the first "production" intake is being built and will be dyno tested within the next week or so.

Test bed will be my car, which over the past couple of months has had a little tweaking and tuning. COPs (courtesy Savington), larger fuel pump, a few degrees taken out of the stock intake cam, a couple added to the stock exhaust cam, then dyno tuned at 10-psi for 233.78-hp and smooth hp/tq curves.

No changes to the set up will be made aside from the installation of the BEGi intake and another dynograph will be made.

Then we'll tune the car for best curves at 10-psi and 14 to 15-psi so I'll have "daily" and "let's play" settings at the flip of a switch.

Regardless, you'll see the difference Corky's latest creation will make w/ the back to back dynos.

- L
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Old 05-02-2011, 11:11 PM   #19
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^ I look forward to the results! I hope you get boost/spool, afr, hp and tq for before and after, just for an overall look.

In the interim I've been considering and severely debating going to a GARRETT 2871 or 3071, but I am having a hard time fighting between spool and total power...
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Old 05-02-2011, 11:19 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by der_idiot View Post
^ i look forward to the results! I hope you get boost/spool, afr, hp and tq for before and after, just for an overall look.

In the interim i've been considering and severely debating going to a garrett 2871 or 3071, but i am having a hard time fighting between spool and total power...
3582 + qsv.
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