jealous of your engine bays
 

Well now that its getting warm here in IL, I'm looking at all these pictures you guys post, and think why does mine look so cluttered, and yours so empty. So here's were I get to the point, which is..... what things are no longer needed when running MS. Here in my town in IL there are no emission laws. Ive heard of people removing the charcoal canister which is alot of space taken up. and I've seen where braineak has this on the intake manifold blocked off (circled in pic below) what is the function of this? any bad effects with it blocked off. I also plan on getting my A/C Evacuated so I can drop that.

The device you have circled is part of the warmup system. It's an air valve that permits more air to bypass the throttle plate when the engine is cold, thus raising the idle slightly and preventing the engine from stalling.

You might be able to compensate for its removal by increasing the duty cycle of the IAC valve, or you might not. I've never tried it, since I like my engine to idle properly when cold.

it has nothing to do with emissions or ms or a/c

its an air valve. when the clt temp is below 70*F, it's open to allow air to bypass the TB for higher and smoother idle. the end. before the coolant reaches the air valve, it passes throught the idle valve to help prevent frost inside the pipes.

That just so coolant can circulate threw your intake mani.

I think your engine bay looks good.

lol i was wrong about what it was.

Here's a diagram of how the system works:

http://img30.picoodle.com/img/img30/...Cm_6340baa.gif

Not his engine bay, thats kotomiles.

Vash-

yea i didn't have any pics of mine trust me alot more shit I want mine as empty as his? so are you saying i shouldn't block it off?

I should take a picture of my engine may to make you feel better. It's about the most cluttered space imaginable. :D

You should see Stephanie's ;) Her car is the BEGi test mule, so it's got all sorts of interesting gizmos under there.

Brain, confirm that MS in no way uses the air valve on the intake manifold... and I can fab up a blockoff plate and cap off the coolant lines at their source. I too am a fan of "neat".

thank you I just like neat If it has no "REAL" importance then away with clutter I was just gonna make a blockoff plate from scrap aluminum

It's a passive system, controlled by the temperature of the coolant, not by the ECU. Therefore, the MS doesn't use it, the engine uses it.

mine's gone. all is has is like a thermostat in it, no wires or sensors. So there shouldn't be any reason why you couldn't adjust your tune to act normally without it...even though i changed nothing and it's been fine

You want a pretty engine bay or comfort? My car has power steering, AC, Cruise, all the emissions gear, big radiator, stock fans, etc. It would be a whole lot cleaner looking getting rid of the comfort items but I'm old and it's a daily driver. Giving up all that comfort isn't worth having a tidy engine bay to show off!

+1 for neater engine bay, but I too am a fan of comfort....
That said I'm keeping my AC (Miami), and PS (pussy), but since i have no emissions and I do have MS, I'll be following along to see what can be taken out, and how...

On a side note that charcoal canister looks like a possible spot for a catch can...

I did it a long time ago. he asked me about it in PM and i forgot to respond.

http://www.boostedmiata.com/random/airvalve_block.jpg

http://www.boostedmiata.com/new_miat...inished007.jpg

As promised, the "yes, there truly is an incredible amount of shit under my hood" picture:

http://img30.picoodle.com/img/img30/...dm_fbe3df8.jpg

Ignore the Vortech FPR on the firewall. Its only job is to accompany the CARB sticker right next to it.

I considered removing the charcoal canister until I realized the hardline going to the canister and the hardline going away from it are different sizes, making it difficult to loop the line securely. Something about having a potential gas vapor leak near my alternator didn't set well with me.

Brain, I know there's a shaped rubber gasket on the valve that fits in a groove carved into both the valve and the manifold. Did you leave that gasket in place? If not, what did you use to ensure a tight seal.

When I remove this thing tomorrow, any suggestions on what I may have to do to get it to idle right if it messes anything up?

Sam when I removed mine I cut a piece of paper gasket to cover the holes completely and then bolted on the block off plate I made. I saw no change in idle after.
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Jason C, if you're reading this, post a photo of your engine bay and put Joe to shame. ;)

Damn, that first bay looks like crap.

Heres mine. I think its pretty good, still missing IC pipes. Technically I have the pipes, but my couplers are locked up in a Jewish organization thats closed on Saturdays.

Here's my cluttered-but-clean engine bay...

Attachment 213221

Your parent's garage? :magna:

heres my dirty engine bay, dont worry Ill have a turbo in there soon enough.
http://img117.imageshack.us/img117/1...rontal1ha6.jpg

shaped groove is only on the valve itself, block is flat iirc. i used silicone to seal it.

^Gotcha... like some black RTV silicone like I use on the valve cover humps.

But what about AC? My air valve has been replaced with a block off plate as well. It idles OK, but it dies when I switch on the AC. What would normally bump up the idle to compensate for the compressor? For those with MS (or other EMS), what do you do to keep the car from stalling while idling with the AC on?

i have no issues idling with a/c. its the CLT temp that dictates whether or not the valve is open, that's it. otherwise the stock ecu controls the idle valve itself, which should compensate for the extra load by the a/c...any chance you severed the small wire into the a/c compressor? this lets the ecu know the a/c is on.

Hey Scott, Any chance you have a pic of said wire? On my compressor I see a wire that goes to the fans and another that goes to the compressor clutch.
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What type of injector inlet/manifold is that ?
I hate the standard 'curved' one as it's always a strain to get a coupler onto it. Has a habit of popping off to.

you mean the elbow coming off the throttle body? It's a FM piece.

standard 2001 manifold and throttle body.


hooray for scott and his camera!

http://www.boostedmiata.com/dyno_day...utside_031.JPG

I'm dumb, im thinking of the P/S wire. either way, when the a/c relay is triggered the ecu should know and adjust the idle accordingly.

Eh?

In all the Miata wiring diagrams I've looked at, the one wire going between the A/C compressor and the ECU isn't a sense line telling the ECU that the A/C is on, it's a control line going from the ECU to cause the A/C clutch to engage.

All Miatas from the 1.6 to the NB are pretty much the same. The "safety" switches (refrig pressure and temp, etc) very from year to year and the NBs have an outboard "AC Amplifier" but logically here's how they work:

1- The user pushes the A/C button on the dash. Assuming the interior fan is on, this sends a closure to ground to the ECU, telling it that the user requests A/C.

2- The ECU then puts out closures to ground on a couple of lines, which cause the A/C Clucth relay and the fan relay(s) to engage, thus turning on the A/C.

So, the ECU doesn't need feedback to tell it the A/C is on, as it's the one that commanded it to turn on in the first place. In fact, when I had the stock ECU and EMU in my car, even after the entire A/C system was ripped out, pushing the A/C button still caused fastidle.

Perhaps you are thinking of the power steering pump? There is indeed a pressure switch on it which tells the ECU whether the PS pump is placing a load on the engine. (eg: turning the wheel while stopped).


Edit: Beat me to it while I was researching wiring diagrams. ;)

So what would keep the idle up when the a/c is on? I thought it was the IAC.
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Yes, it's the electrical IAC, which is separate from the thermo-valve that's being discussed here.

With a stock ECU, it senses the A/C being turned on and raises the idle setpoint. With an MS, it reacts to the dip in idle, and tries to compensate for it by scaling up the IAC.

Either way will work without the thermovalve. It's only in the picture when the coolant is stone-cold. The problem you may face with removing it is that your idle and starting may suck slightly more when it's really cold outside.

Ok, so if my idle dosent correct with the a/c on is it safe to assume my IAC is no good? I have unplugged it with the car running and nothing changes. Is there anything else that could be bad? I ask because I have tried 3 different IAC's and still have the same problem.

If anyone prefer I start a new thread just say so.
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yep, quoting so i don't look so dumb

do you have a lightened flywheel?

No sir. In fact I have the 1.8 flywheel in my 1.6.
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I assume you're MS-parallel, and the stock ECU is still driving A/C and IAC?

There's not a whole lot to the IAC circuit. Assuming an NA, it gets its power from the same white/red wire that drives the injectors, then it goes to ground at the ECU through a blue/orange wire.

I'd check that you get +12 on the connector with key on, that you have continuity to the ECU on blue/orange, check to see that you have a finite non-zero resistance across the IAC, and physically inspect it to see that it's not jammed up.

What ECU? :giggle: My car runs on a Haltech E6K. So, is there any workaround so a standalone knows to bump up the idle to compensate for AC?

"standard 2001 manifold and throttle body."


Can that be put on a 91 ?

if the 91 has a 1.8L motor in it.... port spacing is different on the 1.6.