Key broke, how do you remove pulley?
 

Key broke, how do you remove pulley? 94 1.8
Key broken and I'm guessing part of it is wedged in there to the point the coged pulley will not come off. Already chipped it in one spot trying to pry it off. There is no way to fit a puller behind it and no holes taped in it to get a balancer puller to screw in to......ideas?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394478951

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394478951

PS is the crank fucked and this is futile?

Looking at it, seems like the crank is fubared.

You don't. The crank is fucked. Sorry :(

Ok well you do with a LOT of MAPP GAS. lol

Serious question I understand the crank is fucked but on a 200K motor anyone had any luck with welding the pulley back on? Its going in a Lemons car and the belt will definitely outlive the motor.

Thoughts, I cant be the first one to think/try this.

Like?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394481546

So in testing it looks like it can be welded.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394483160

Dude, i say you can sure as shit weld that thing back on for a ghetto ass fix, should only need a little tack weld too. Go for it and report back.

I've seen 1.6 cranks that were JB welded and held up until the timing belt snapped.

Like

I'd say the traditional 1.6SNC fix (Loktite 660 IIRC) would work well here.

Use proper torque and red on the crank bolt. Remember, the Woodruff key is there to position the parts. It's bolt torque that should hold everything together.

In for ghetto pix!

I love it. I fixed my short noser in the above mentioned method and cracked piston rings with 25k miles on bandaids long before that thing was on it's way out. Weld away. Agreed it will only take a tiny weld.

I think you'll have serious issues with welding that on straight. The process of heating it up on one side without it being secured by the crank bolt will almost certainly cause it to sit unevenly.

That being said - I've repaired a number of cranks with damaged keyways. Some steady work with a tig welder and then have it looked over by a machine shop... But it sounds like you are looking for a quick fix..

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394516995

That looks amazing.

Loctite fix that bitch.


A serious lemons build would probably replace that crank.

go to pick and pull and get a block with a good crank and a bunch of spear parts you can use or resale

and how do you mess up a crank like this wow never seen that ever

you must be new to miatatatas :giggle:

To be fair, I've never seen anything this bad unless there was a supercharger involved.

Seriously, how?

LeMons is not serious.

Newby

As I got the car with out the AFM or crossover intake pipe and crank looks like this I bet your right. Header was heat wrapped. All pointing to hotside SC in its past.

yes I'm new to the Miata and that why I ask how this can happen ? I like to not have it happen to my Miata but I'm thinking of picking up a few back up engines out of the wrecking yard when I have some time to go pull them .
The ( you pull it ) here gets a Miata about every month or so.

I JB welded mine on an old miata I had...as long as surface is prepped then it should hold up fine...I'd probably swing for a new Timing gear and Key though...

I've also heard of people making more marks in the cranks and gear so there are 2-3 more key ways for durability...they had access to machining equipment though.

Gotcha'. I thought this was on your turbo car. A SC would definitely explain this damage.

So anyone ever "pin" a crank pulley? I see its popular in the SC crowd on LS motors. Just drill out a hole like a key way and drive a roll pin in there. I dont know how easy it would be to remove again but it should never let it slip regardless of the stock key. I would loctite the stock key in too.

My SC Mustang has machined two keys in to the crank but that was high dollar high HP build (800) and a bug blower using a 10 rib belt.

One below had two but I think one would do it.

Its already F'd so how many more times do you think you want to dick around with this engine (i.e. replace the timing belt)? Pin it, weld it, or JB it and then drive until you are ready (or forced) to swap in a good motor.

This is surprisingly not common in the Miata community. It's probably because most owners don't even think about the problem until they have already started to blow out their keyways.

I don't see why this wouldn't work as a quick fix in your situation. Certainly better than welding. The only problem I see is again keeping things even as the Miata configuration is not a press on pulley.

Sounds like you should give this a shot considering your crank is already beyond the point of return and unlike welding - this is at least an easy fix to un-do if/when it comes time to replace the crank.

EDIT - Whatever you do - keep an eye on it for the first few hundred miles. An unbalanced pulley is worse than not having one at all.

I did this with a Honda I had.

the issue I could see with a Miata is that the crank face isn't flush with the pully. so you wouldn't be able to get the hole started with a drill in a place that would help.

Solution though might be putting a solid rod in the pully off the engine and drilling the hole centered on the ID of the pully, slip it on then drill the crank for it after. Could be a serious pain though.

Good catch :squint: I knew there had to be a better reason why this is not a more popular solution for our poorly designed crank pulley setup.

TDR adds pins on all their SC installs. Friend of mine just had an M45 installed by them.

Personally, I think the solution is easy. Use a turbo.

I'll gust shim it flush drill and then remove shims.

It's shallow in the wrong direction. The pulley face is proud not the shaft. Maybe remove the timing gear from behind the pulley boss and do it...?

Any pics of the TDR pinned sprocket ?