How many people here have an LC-1 and had no problems with it?

I got mine from DIY a few months ago while putting together my kit. I'm getting ready to put the thing on, but looking at the Innovative forums I'm having serious doubts. I just put a bunch of money into the motor and I don't want to melt anything because of a faulty WB.

 

QUICK! sell it and buy an AEM, you will thank yourself.

 

How can a company with such a supposed horrible product still be selling them? I did alot of the reading on them before I bought a WB02. It seems that 90% of the problems are user related. If they are installed correctly, they should work fine, unless each and everyone of them they sell is ****. But if that's the case, then why do companies like DIY sell them?

Mine is in and wired up. I read the directions 100 times over and even asked some questions on the forum about the install. Seems as long as the grounds are shared, you alleviate the biggest problem people have.

The LC1 w/DB1 gauge was pricey, if it is indeed **** and fails on me.....I'm going to ******* break someones neck.

Vash-

 

mine read fine, when it worked, it would eat a sensor every couple of months though, and would randomly read funny/lost calibration/would "kinda" work, and i had it installed properly. but my AEM has worked perfect from day one, still on the same sensor that it came with.

 

mine has worked perfect for like 6 months...

... and I bought it used.

 

mine has been great for 6-months.

 

I had a **** ton of issues with it in the beggining but it has worked flawlessley for the last 6 months plus after I read the manual and did exactly as it says.

 

I hate innovate widebands more than any other.. i've never had one that has been worth a damn.

 

Mine has been installed a year and 15k miles on it. Had one hiccup in really cold weather back in December, so I put a big ****-off ground on it straight to the ECU grounds at the throttle body and it's been flawless ever since. Don't buy it on eBay, don't get a defective 6-wire version, don't ground it poorly. They are finnicky, but they do work, and they work well.

 

Mine has been working alright. Some issues with it resetting itself due to a low voltage while cranking. Its all in the install. I just soldered all my grounds from it to a ring terminal. ALso, its been working much better since I installed the push button and momentary switch.

 

I'm just curious as to what made you install it without the push button? I assume your talking about the calibration button and LED?

Vash-

 

I installed it without the Calibration LED and switch because I bought it used and it didn't come with it. Also, my car wasn't running when I was installing it so I didn't want to find a ride to the store to get the parts so I just ran it without the LED or Button for about a month or so. I calibrated it using my laptop so I wasnt really concerned.

 

I've had mine (from diy) in for over 2k miles and never had any problems. Of course I've never run it against the WB on a dyno either. But I've done all my street tuning with it and not seen anything unusual. Only one recalibration on it in 2 years.

 

We don't need another Hustler. Wise up.

All your "issues" were 100% user error.

Installation error. RTFM

My LC-1 is over 2 years old now. It read within .01:1AFR to the MoTec at SoG's dyno. I also have an LM1 and the LM and LC read within .01:1AFR to each other.

The LC-1 product is great. 99% of the "problems" you see are user error by people too stupid or too incompetent to install it correctly.

 

I've had mine for over two years. Besides one random recalibration while the car was running it has worked just fine

 

Had mine for almost 3 years now and been installed in 2 different cars and not a single problem with it.

 

I had a bunch of problems like everyone else until I correctly grounded it, then it worked like a charm, until one day it just took a **** on me, I still haven't figured out whats wrong, running my old AEM for the time being. The LC1/XD16 was badass while it worked though.

What would it do when it lost the sensor? I am hoping mine is just a dead sensor..

Defective 6-wire version? I bought new off Ebay, and come to think of it, it is a 6 wire

 

1) All ground leads go to the ECU ground
2) +12 must be hot in "run" AND cranking (see miata schematic, several leads to choose from)
3) Hook up the provided switch and LED (the LED produces useful feedback in the form of error msgs and the switch allows easy calibration)
4) Calibrate properly
5) Program properly
6) Compare digital signal to analog signal for accuracy
7) Stop sullying Innovate's name

 

Just installed my LC-1 / XD16. Ran White/Green/Blue to the throttle body ground. +12v from the o2 sensor connector, and Analog 1 output to the MSPNP. Had to reconfig Analog 1 to wideband operation. For the XD-16 I got +12v from the connector under the console (I think it's the power window connector), and grounded it to the front console bracket. So far so good.

C

 

This is not correct. The 12V lead should NOT be hot during cranking. It should only be hot when the ignition is on. This is straight from two different tech support guys at Innovate. They have seen anomalies in the LC-1 when it is powered during cranking since the voltage drop during cranking can cause errors with the AFR measurements. This is also discussed in the Innovate tech support forums.