IMO running the car at your target boost and tuning for that first is the way to go. That'll get you where you want to be quicker, then you can worry about tuning other areas later based on what you've arrived at elsewhere. \

Given the price of WBo2s now, it just doesn't make sense not to have one given the investment in the rest of a turbo set up. It's no different than going to the dyno and trying to tune without a WB. And if you install one, you're tune will be that much better when you do go to the dyno for any fine tuning.

I picked up my palm m500 on ebay two years ago for $25 delivered. I like it for the portability. I've got one of those handheld suction cup holders stuck to the windshield so I can see everything that's going on in "monitor" mode while driving. Just ran the serial link cable under the gauge pod above the steering column, then behind the center console and into the glove box.

Datalogging is the key for tuning on the street. It removes the task of trying to tune real time. Logging lets you pay attention to the vitals instead. - rob

Well it's been tentatively determined that my Link is faulty, pending a diagnostics on FM's test bench. Jeremy @ FM thinks that if it were a real issue with my o2 sensor, then the Link should have displayed o2 = 0 when I unplugged the sensor. Instead, it displayed o2 = 75 despite the presence of varying voltage output from the sensor, and didn't change with the lack of a sensor either.

Supposedly they are going to call me with a RMA number...

It's 70 & sunny again, and my car is still not drivable. But at least I took the hardtop off, and it's sitting pretty with the softtop back and boot on.

I still have a gaping trench in my driveway, waiting for the 12 feet of soft clay to settle so we can poor concrete... so a feel a little of your pain.

I agree- if the link isn't showing a change when a lead is removed/installed then something must be funky with the ecu. Same thing with my boost control- I used an LED with a resistor to test for boost control signal (ground) with 12v on the LED and never got a thing. One day I'll get it repaired- no warranty here, so I'll have to do it myself OR higher a pro if it's beyond my capability.

well then we should put our powers together :cool:
How about a parallel ecu installation, yours running fuel and mine running boost control? That's of course assuming mine has functional boost control; I never did try it as I didn't get fueling sorted.

Why was your driveway trenched?

Oh, and FM has a complete list of zone functions on their website. It's actually not too difficult to deal with at all, just not as friendly of an interface as the emange piggy I had previously.

My 82 year old clay sewer pipe collapsed and just happened to run the length of my driveway to the city sewer main under the street. So 40 ft. out and 12 ft. down. Don't wan't to pour the concrete until the Georgia clay has had a chance to settle.

You just need a few more "dates" with your Link. Once you get to know her you'll understand her better. She really does want to please you. ;)

link & 550s are out. original ecu and 205s are in. car runs and cruises in closed loop. i'm about to take the link board to ups.btw, posted from my treo. tnx philip.

Ben, is your Link one of the ones FM found in a box?

Why I am asking is that I ordered my Link when they where out of stock in Dec. and then they found a box of them in their whse and shipped them out in Jan.

Just want to know if I will be going through the same problems later this month when I install it (hoping it is not a bad batch).

To my knowledge, NO. Didn't hear even a whisper about that. FWIW, I could drive the car. The Link would do everything except go into closed loop. When I got the factory ECU, injectors, and AFM back in, the car would run closed loop just fine.

They must have very poor inventory management in Colorado.

:inout: I think Link is New Zealander, not Chinese.

Update:

In case you cared.
The board was put on the test rig at FM. The results were all the same:
Under all conditions and situations, the Link reported o2 sensor input voltage at a constant .07 Volts.

They'll have another board for me in a week.

so you're not crazy! damn, whodda thunk it?! :yippee:

Glad they found the problem.

Regardless of what some people say FM is not that bad.

(We just think that they are not GODS here)

update
 

Just found out from FM that the 1.6 Link is out of production. So I'm back to square one.

If there is anything positive out of this, at least I didn't pay the $100 for a DLL license.

whoa, they stopped the 1.6 link? I guess I'm going with Xede.

Yeah, Link has the new G3 though, though they never got back with me concerning their test monkey offer they had....

Maybe there's some interest in a group buy? They're priced pretty cheap with the gb.

what's the g3 about?

$1170 shipped, including PNP module, and base map
GB:
10% discount for 5
20% discount for 10
Does not include AIT Sensor ($50)
Does include MAP and barometric sensors

http://www.linkecu.com/products/engi...specifications

Wow, looks like I got one of the last one's. Hope mine isn't fucked :(

Jeremy said that Link has 5 more in production, and then that's it.

I'm (supposedly) getting an RMA for the items I still have (keypad, AIT sensor, etc) and a refund, but that's what they said last week too...