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Old 05-23-2008, 12:06 PM   #61
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wanna do my car? *cries* i'm local
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Old 05-23-2008, 12:18 PM   #62
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im not local, but ill drive to Florida hahahaha
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Old 05-23-2008, 12:34 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LOLA - 92 View Post
You -
In the garage -
Funny you should ask right now, because I am compounding out some over-spray from something else I did near the car about a month ago -
STUPID ME!

I got the paint on-line from here:
http://www.automotivetouchup.com/
Clear coat and SU Base Coat and some primer for nose cover and raer cover and the accident area at the rear quarter.

Lots of Vinyl that painters use - 1 Roll
2 fans - I didn't really mask off the garage - Too much of a pain in the ***, although if I remember coorectly I did cover many parts of it. But with the fans blowing and sucking there wasn't much of a problem.
I bought 2 HVLP guns (low end).
The compressor was (crappy), but it worked. Small compressors have a tendency to make more moisture. YES I used a water separator but moisture still came through at times. A small pressure regulator was also attached to the guns.
Double filter face mask about $40/50. (You need this for sure)
I removed all of the belt mouldings and anything RUBBER, for a more professional look. I hate paint/tape marks on the rubber.
Side mirrors werwe also removed.
I painted the hood, trunk lid, headlight covers inside the garage and outside.
Once again - The most important part is the prep work and how far you want to go to make it look right - My feeling was that if a paint shop wants $2K to $4K to fix my car and they are not rocket scientists, then I can do it also. It just takes time to do it right.

~~ The paint was the most expensive (app. $550) part of it. I spent around $1200 including the ($360) for the new front fender and the used door (whole w/windows and internals). ~~
Very nice. Sorry if you mentioned it earlier, but did you use 2part urethane primer and clear coat or the 1 part lacquer primer and clear? On your rear fender where you used Bondo, did you have to do primer over the bondo or just paint over the bondo? My car has a few parking-lot dings that I'd want to fill in as well as a little bit of surface rust on my rear fenders; I don't know if I'd need primer too.

My biggest concern is that the original white paint is flaking/peeling off on the hood and windshield header. I'm not sure if I should just sand the areas where it's coming off or what. i don't want the new paint to flake off.
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Old 05-23-2008, 01:02 PM   #64
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Quote:
My biggest concern is that the original white paint is flaking/peeling off on the hood and windshield header. I'm not sure if I should just sand the areas where it's coming off or what. i don't want the new paint to flake off.
You'll' need to go down to the primer almost on that part, or sand it down all of the way.
I sanded down the bumper covers pretty far because of spider cracks - For the bumper covers I also used "BULLDDOG" Adhesion promoter on it during the process so it flexes a little more and won't chip off. You really don't need a FLEX AGENT for these areas anymore.
You always prime any bare areas - Trust me when I say that the primer REQUIRES the use of a good mask and ventilation.
Paints are:
1) 2 part quartUrethane Clearcoat Kit (catalyst and mixing cup included) 38.70
2) Urethane Base Coat Color. Premixed with proper solvents ready to spray with paint gun., 1992, Mazda, quart, Miata, PT WHITE for a 92 = $74.95
3) 2 part Urethane PrimerKit (catalyst and mixing cup included) $30.60

(The paint code I put in for your car was for a '92 "white" - Not crystal white and probably not the right year for your car either)

~~ This is all quart prices. You could probaly go down to your local PPG store and get OMNI PAINT. Might be cheaper. I got this paint because of the COLOR (RED) - Although the factory paint code for my car is "SU", different comanies make different colors of "SU" RED.
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Old 05-23-2008, 01:08 PM   #65
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I am not an expert but going through this painting pain right now.
For Flaking question I would suggest sanding the panels down to bare metal. Some Miatas seemed to have paint which flakes away and the new paint would pulled off too in the future. Sanding to the metal was easy with angle grinder looking sander from Harbor Freight, even the stone protection on the side went easy.

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Old 07-16-2008, 10:03 AM   #66
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What size compressor was used ?
HP/PSI/Gallons etc?
I'm thinking of buying these as myself and some buddys want to repaint our cars:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94572
or
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93305

Anyone know anything about this thing:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=44677
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Old 07-16-2008, 10:19 AM   #67
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I would stay away from all of those.
Sanders and other tools are fine from them, but a paint gun where precision is important, I wouldn't trust them.
Get a real gun, you want gravity fed HVLP, nothing else.
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Old 07-16-2008, 10:30 AM   #68
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Cool, what size compressor would I need to get ?
Compressors are bloody expensive here so I'll probably rent one.
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Old 07-16-2008, 10:38 AM   #69
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The bigger the better, make sure it has good filtration.
And a dehumidifier *spelling*
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Old 07-16-2008, 10:46 AM   #70
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What about something like this....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-Sta...spagenameZWDVW
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Old 07-16-2008, 11:00 AM   #71
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I don't know, never seen one used before...just go with a traditional set-up and you won't make a mistake, all this other **** could end up costing you double cause you have to do it over again.
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Old 07-16-2008, 10:17 PM   #72
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Those HVLP guns are worthless, you'll get better results spitting the paint out by mouth.
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