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Old 09-15-2007, 02:04 PM   #21
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Hey neogenesis2004, I was looking at some pics of your head build. Looks nice. I did a lot of headwork on my 99. Just though I would say You might want to unshroud the valves a little more. I did mine 20% diameter of exhaust valves, 25% diameter of the intakes. Yours looked more like 10%.
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Old 09-15-2007, 02:25 PM   #22
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It is not possible to deshroud them any further. They are already at the limit of my 80mm cometic hg. I didn't take any before pics, but had I you would see that they are extensively deshrouded. I have more pics on the camera that I havent uploaded yet.
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Old 09-15-2007, 02:41 PM   #23
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I'm making a drawing on how I did mine. You can go more where the gasket dosn't seal. I really wish I had taken pictures of it while I had it off.

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Old 09-15-2007, 03:31 PM   #24
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You don't want the gasket sticking into the combustion chamber at all.
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Old 09-15-2007, 04:38 PM   #25
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It would not be sticking in the combustion chambers. The doted line is where the head gasket seals. The combustion chambers could technically be unshrouded all the way to the dotted lines, assuming it didn't hit a water passage or something, but that would not be benificial.

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Old 09-16-2007, 01:23 AM   #26
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Does anyone know what RPM my 1 Liter Lysholm is rated at? Anyone know of a place to find out?
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Old 09-16-2007, 01:32 AM   #27
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take the 300 lph pump and throw it in the mix of the system if nothing else given what you have shown me here you should be fine.
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Old 09-16-2007, 01:38 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnamx-5 View Post
take the 300 lph pump and throw it in the mix of the system if nothing else given what you have shown me here you should be fine.
Huh? FWIW, the Fuel Pump for the nitrous is rated at [email protected] I unhooked the hose from the solenoid to put some gas in a gascan for my lawn mower a while back. I turned the pump on for, I timed it, 15 seconds, and I had half filled a 1 gallon gas can.
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Old 09-16-2007, 01:43 AM   #29
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oh damn then that won't help alot. You know that once you hit 8 psi of manifold pressure the FP will need to turn 16 psi of line pressure to be effective right? I was hoping they used a high pressure pump. For the most part i think the stock fpr in the tank will need to be modified as it is one of the first choke points of your system. Regardless i think using the NOS fuel system to supplement the stock system is a good idea but since it is only a low pressure pump that solution wont last very long. Also when are you gonna step up to a bad *** clutch to handle all that hp
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Old 09-16-2007, 02:20 AM   #30
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Damn it, Richard, your not as slap ****** retarded as everyone says...
I didn't even think about boost affecting the fuel pressure. Yea, When I bought that pump, I wasn't thinking about going FI. Well, time for a new plan...

Summit racing has a house brand fuel pump, 280 [email protected] for 210.

Perhaps I'll just pick up a 255HP Walbro in tank pump for 100, and remove the in tank FPR. Then tap it into my existing 3/8 hard fuel lines and route it to the engine. There, I'll regulate the pressure and have a guage showing fuel pressure inline between the regulator and the fuel rail. The regulator will have a return, so I'll have to run a return line to the tank. Could also utilize the factory fuel supply line for my new return.


With this setup, I could use the 255HP to supply fuel to the motor and the nitrous system, Correct?

I could also remove my 300L pump that only makes 8PSI and sell it to help offset the cost of the new components. I could also sell my Holley Low pressure Fuel Pressure regulator.

Well, thanks Richard. You are right and I didn't even think about that.

Bad *** clutch? I was planning on replacing it a week after I finished installing my nitrous, so I gave it hell for like 3 months, with the intent of replacing it. 5 bottles later, It's made 10+ launches at the 1/8 mile, several NICE burnouts, and 10K miles since the nitrous, and it's still holding strong. It does shudder terribly once in a while though, usually the day after tracking it. Im like that crazy guy Magna, "why fix [shity *** wiring] if it's not broke! Nuf Sad!"

Edit

Regulator: Mallory high flow regulator 3/8 in and out adjustable from 30-100 PSI, 1 inlet, 3 outlets. 100 dollars :http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Walbrow 255LPH HP In tank Fuel pump: 95 dollars: http://shopping.lightningmotorsports..._342-p-21.html

In car Fuel Pressure Guage 2 1/16 Summit Racing 0-100 PSI, 18 dollars: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

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Old 09-16-2007, 02:29 AM   #31
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Very true Pat i have to ask how you will deal with the difference your Nos system sees can you throtle it back at the selonoid or do you need a new fuel fogger. The 255 lph pump at the stockish pressures ie sub 70 psi will flow plenty for your power gaols and is a good idea. + it is only 100$ from lightning motorsports. I migth not be dumb like they say but i do things different some see that as good others see it as a point of ridicule, i wouldn't change it for the world though cheers pat.
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Old 09-16-2007, 02:46 AM   #32
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I will have to pull the intake manifold and change the fuel jets in the foggers. It's a bitch, so it won't happen till I have the new fuel system up and running at the proper pressure. Then I'll have to calculate what jets I need for my [100,120,140, or more] shot and buy them. Then, pull the intake and replace the jets. The jets go into the foggers and then you screw on the line that go the the foggers and that's what holds the jet in. Those jets are like 4.50 each!
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Old 09-16-2007, 02:48 AM   #33
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using the old jets would theretically be good for a 250 shot though j/k
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Old 09-16-2007, 02:54 AM   #34
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Yea, right, a 250 shot is what my motor needs.......

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Old 09-16-2007, 03:48 AM   #35
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Old 09-16-2007, 07:54 AM   #36
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That is sick!
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Old 09-16-2007, 02:01 PM   #37
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Has anyone made 300 whp on a stock bottom end? I'm going to have the Devil's Own progressive water injection for cooling, no intercooler, MS II controlling fuel and spark. I believe I need to do a coolant reroute but I'm not sure what needs to be done. Assuming a good tune around 12.5:1 AFR, timming maps are correct, would it hold up to 300? What normally fails? I could see accelerated wear from the extra power, but normally I hear about cylinder 4 either has very low compression or a hole in the piston from XXXX.
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Old 09-16-2007, 02:15 PM   #38
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Quote:
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That is sick!
Thanks. What's funny is you can't even see them since their under the intake. Look at the other pics of the engine. If you look carefully, you can see a braided line running against the passenger side firewall.
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Old 09-16-2007, 04:32 PM   #39
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Acelerated wear you are right given good tunning the setup should last 15 or so K miles or until the rings stop wanting to seal. A dual feed fuel rail will help eliminate the #4 lean problem.
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Old 09-16-2007, 04:58 PM   #40
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So, the rings stop wanting to seal? Is it from heat? Or is it from the pistons. Perhaps the area on the piston where the rings press against is being worn out because of the extras stress being applied. This is usually what causes a loss in compression when running nitrous. It's not really the rings fault, it's the pistons. Forged pistons have more strength in this critical area and hold up better.

I suppose if I had a better set of rods and new forged pistons, and maybe oil pump gears, I the bottom end would be up to the task.

If that's what goes, what it
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