mixing manifold question
 

Hi,

Planning my coolant reroute and just wondering how easy is to remove the hardline from the mixing manifold that goes to the heater core?

Just pull it out. Its pressure fitted with an oring.

Easy. One good tug and it pops right out.

but is it just as easy to fit it back in?

Yes. You just need a new o-ring if the old one is shot. What are your plans for your re-route? You might be interested in my re-route... I am taking final pictures tomorrow. Its very inexpensive, and it utilizes almost all stock parts. I think in total it has cost me $115. The thermostat housing costed the most.

I'm interested in seeing that thanks !

ill PM you pix on monday if you want

It's now tomorrow. Pictures or ban.

Joe must need a re-route pretty bad, lol

I'm interested too.

sorry about that guys, I will have pictures up tomorrow, I spent the weekend at NHIS doing a VRG vintage race with my grandfather. I will wake up finish my pics and put them up. Please dont ban!

Pics, pics, pics!

alright guys, my job called and placed me working everyday this week. My car is at my fathers shop so I will explain it here because I dont have time to take pics right now.
parts list:
1.8L thermostat housing
Turbo Tim inline thermostat housing (needs to be drilled to accept a fitting.
(2) 1/8" NPT to 1/4 barb
(3) flexible rad hoses (or ones that match the bend)
Spacer, (I made mine, and I think Turbo Tim makes them too) spacer has 2 outlets, one that matches the temp sensor, and the other is a 1/4 pipe threading
1/4" pipe thread to 5/8" pipe thread "reducer"
insert a bolt in the opening on the reused thermostat upper housing. I drilled and tapped the flat surface to insert the secondary temp sensor (green)
some wire to relocate the front temp sensor.
freeze plug ( I made a plate to make it look pretty) haha
5/8" pipe thread to 1/4" barb
hose 5/8" with a 90* in it. 3/8 hose if you dont already have extra from your turbo.

re-used:
rad hose and metal hose from the bottom outlet of the rad. relocated to the top input of the rad going straight down under the intake mani
heater core 5/8 hose
1.6L tstat upper housing
temp sensors
heater core(acts as a secondary rad for the turbo) WORKS GREAT!
some other little pieces like clamps.

reroute goes like this....
out rad into the motor, pipe fitting to go to turbo
turbo water outlet goes to heater core
engine water passes straight through the motor and through a spacer where it meets with
the water from the heater goes through the spacer and back into the system
spacer has a pipe reducer and the grey temp sensor
1.6L tstat upper housing is attached with longer bolts and is drilled to fit the green temp sensor
flex hose or a fitted hose with a 90* built in
Turbo Tim tstat housing drilled with a fitting.
the return line from the throttle body can be fished through the intake manifold for a perfect fit to the tstat housing
flex hose or fitted hose with a 45* built in
mated to the reused metal and rad hose

FINISHED!!!!

You retain the heater core and provide extra cooling for that turbo water!

Test 1
60* outside with 2 holes drilled in tstat.
.....
.....
.....
it took 20 MINUTES @5500 rpm for the car to reach operating temp!!!! (80*c) highway so no stopping!!!

How about that!!!

Test 2

Did a Slalom in 85* sunlight (45 seconds @7000 rpm I know its not much)
Didn't even come close (needle didnt move at all)

Test 3 comes on July 4th on a track day, where there will be 3 people running the car full tilt for 3 20 min sessions sequentially with a 3 minute break in between.. This will be the ULTIMATE test!



Good Luck all!!
PS there are pics of some of the first things to do on my post called "Workin on the car so I took some shots"

heres the link to my thread

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=18799

:td:

it was night time. hasnt been out in the sun except for test 2

and that can be fixed with how many holes you drill in your tstat. I drilled 2, even though Paul and Turbo Tim told me only to drill 1 1/8" hole

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=21919

Here is the link to my pictures

Ummm... that is not a good thing there. Ideally the engine would reach operating temp quickly, then stay there without overheating.