Mobil 1 formula
 

This last weekend at an autocross a few guys were talking about how the new Mobil One formula sucks and breaks down fast. Which also explains the reason it's only $17 a gallon at Advance now. Anyone know anything more in detail on this? If there really is a new formula that sucks? Couldn't find anything online about it.

I've been hearing this as well. No proof or info, just word of mouth. People have been saying this for over a year though.
I put some Valvoline synthetic in last time. No idea how it's doing, seems fine though. Might go for some redline on the next change just because you know it'll be good.

Mobil1 used to be a group IV oil, they are now a group III as Mobile has started to 'thin' the full synthetic out with hydrocracked base stock. So it's like a synthetic blend, but on steroids, as it does contain a healthy amount of POA oil (the good stuff). And still very good. This is actually Castrol's fault. Castrol started calling one of their blends 'full synthetic', Mobil took Castrol to court about it. Castrol's lawyers must have been better, as they won. Since then, many of the oil co's have been producing blends marketed as full synthetic.

Their good stuff is now called Mobil1 Extended Service or some shit like that and runs $25/gallon. I think it still includes some hydrocracked base stock mixed in, and do not see the 'value' with regard to our application. The 'standard' Mobil1 is specified for oil temps up to 400°F. The $18/gallon standard Mobil1 is fine for our application, and I still use it in the miata, but I've been using Rotella synthetic in everything else recently including my Mercedes. It's less expensive than Mobil1 and is very high quality.

If you're running a balls out racing engine, it's probably a good idea to run group V Polyol Esters oil like Amsoil, Royal Purple, and RedLine.

Man i love me some rotella. I changed oil or a few years and that's all we used in the diesels including our own. It always came out better than delo in comparison after 3000 miles.

I'm about to buy a shit-ton of amsoil. Its the same price as mobile1 extended.

soflarick is a dealer

Yeah I have noticed mobil 1 has been sucking for a while i gues this is why :td: It sucks they used to be good. Now i swear by Royal purple

A coworker of mine gave me 6 quarts of Redline 10w30 a little while ago for free. Ka-ching :inout:

hey soflarick, post up some amsoil prices!

Yes, I am a dealer, and I am happy to extend my discounts to any Miataturbo member. Just drop me an email and I'll give you the prices. Can't here. I've done some reading about the M1, supposed to be GIII, not quite as good as the GIV oils like Amsoil or Redline. The price for the M1 Extended is not worth it IMHO since Amsoil is so readily available at better prices, and it is still better lubricant than the M1. The Amsoil filters are also top of the line IMO. Only other spin on filter I would consider pricewise would be Purolator, Wix, Hastings, or M1. The KN flows well but doesn't filter as well as the others. The Amsoil filter is far better than the M1, and the prices are the same. The Amsoil oil filter flows really well, filters to a much smaller micron level than any of the others, and has a much longer recommended change interval. I've been running Amsoil lubricants in my cars for quite a while, even before becoming a dealer. Prices are good, shipping is super cheap, and since there are distribution centers all over the place it usually doesn't take long to receive the order. BTW, Amsoil has air filters now that can replace just about any KN air filter out there, flow just about as well, but filter far better. Check the Amsoil website for what they offer. There's a lot more than just fluids and lubricants. They also have NGK products, Mothers products, Trico, and some other things.

I just use German Castrol from autozone.

Amsoil ftw, Soflarick will take care of you!
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ok amsoil guys... which motor oil should I run? series 2000? regular synthetic, or XL?

Mobile 1 5w30 Synthetic plus factory Mazda filters. At 90000 miles the valve train is clean as a whistle and no noticeable wear on the lobes. I don't race so Mobile1 is perfectly fine for me...21.00 for the big ol' jug at Walmart. I only drive about 400 miles a month if that.

Depends on what you do with the car and the power, IMHO. I lean more towards protection rather than trying to eek out the last hp or two.

I use M1 5w30 and my oil analysis has come back just fine after 3000 miles. I was even told I could go 5000 miles by Blackstone Labs.

But, I've been wanting to try Amsoil - Richard, you have a PM.

Thanks

I beat the shit out of it. :bigtu:

AutoX, commute, not drive in snow... power is plenty high to warrant a little extra protection.

Is there much difference between the synthetic and synthetic XL? I'm not sure I quite want to step up to Series 2k for the price.

summer is hot here but i'll be doing the fall oil change soon.

The XL line is a Group III oil, hence its lower price and 7500 drain interval. The full GIV synthetic is the regular stuff and has a 25k change interval under normal passenger car conditions, not yours :). Basically if you want great protection and you just HAVE to change your oil every 3k, get the XL. If you want fewer drain intervals and top protection, get the full synthetic. I don't personally run the new Series 2000 since it doesn't currently come in the weights I use. Once they offer a greater variety of oil weights, I'd give it a try. On an FI'd engine, I'd at least run 10w30. I don't care about making an extra hp or 1/4 mpg (if that) from a lighter weight oil. I have way too much money into my engine, so I want protection.

Lemme back up a bit, if you're in a colder climate, then a lighter weight would be okay. I live in South Florida where it's HOT 8 months of a year. If I lived further north, I would consider 5w30 in the cooler/colder months, maybe even 0w30. In the summer, 10w30 would be it for me.

It sounds like the "regular" Amsoil is what I should use since I intend on OCI of 5000 miles for my SCed engine. But, I'm still a little confused about 5w30 vs 10w30.

I've been using 5w30 ever since day 1. This is even after I moved to Phoenix. I wonder if I should be switching over to 10w30 in the summer and stay with 5w30 for the cooler months?

Hmmm.

ok cool. so probably the ASL or ATM... man amsoil's website makes it hard to research their products.

i like 20-50 on mine

Amsoil tech sheet says recommended oil weight is 10w30. It's still a "mpg" oil. I just wouldn't run 5w with an FI engine.

Wouldn't the initial viscosity be a moot point since it "thickens" as soon as the engine warms up? I thought the important part was the 30w?

kinda but still a 30 max just doesn't make sense to me way to thin. But maybe i beat on my car harder than most of you guys :dunno:

All the 5w30s I've seen have been thinner out of the bottle than 10w30s.

Is that like when you go down hill you go faster? :rofl:

My wife always make fun of me because I can make a decision on buying a house on the spot, but I agonize over the smallest things. lol

I was thinking about changing from M1 to Penzoil Platinum for next oil change, but the Amsoil is just too good to pass up. Now back to agonizing over 5w vs 10w. :)

yes but you don't make threads about not being able to decide what color your plug wires should be. ;) Unlike some people

I'm running 5w30 now, but my oil pressure at idle is way low. can't hurt to try some 10w30. not sure if the low temp rating is relevant at idle temps.

No.

Personal opinion, but I can't see turbo guys running 5w oil, esp since the oil runs through the turbo. If then engine's FI'd, I'd run at least 10w. Your bearings will thank you.

Ok, after reading though a bunch of stoff on BITOG this is the result:

1. I have a headche.
2. Amsoil is a better oil than Mobil 1
3. Amsoil recommends 10w30
4. Mazda recommends EITHER 5w or 10w
5. Gary @ TDR recommended 5w30 synthetic - specifically Redline (which he sells).
6. I have a headache.


Therefore, I will probably get... ah hell I don't know. :(

Bottom line: I think it's a win/win situation since Amsoil is a better motor oil.

I think the 10w30 is the way to go for a turbo miata especially if you aren't in the arctic circle.

Is amsoil better than redline? I've been kind of concerned with this news about Mobil1's new formula. I'll be switching to either amsoil or redline soon, but I only want the highest quality oil since I race and autocross.

Back home, we have to run 5w30 synthetic. Dino oils turn into mollasses in -50F weather and i've seen it -86F. They're so thick that your oil pump can't flow oil through the motor, many people have lost engines due to this.

I've watched the Ice Road tv series about Yellowknife. It's pretty wild.

but they never show miatas driving up there. the convertible top would shatter i bet.

but here it doesn't get down to less than like 10° ever.

There are a few miata's up there but not many. The only way I would have one up there would be with a hardtop.
Before I knew anything about miata's my roommate told me to take his car to the store and to put the top down. I went outside and unlatched the top, pushed it back a little and heard a loud crack. The rear vinyl in his '91 shattered, it was around 30*. He didn't mention that i needed to unzip that bitch. Not that I should have been putting the top down when it's that cold anyway. Just didn't think about it, needless to say i bought a $165 no zip top off ebay from that popular seller and we installed it.

I received my test kit so I'm going to mail that in today and see how mine looked after about 3000 miles. Actually it wasn't even black yet.

so what amsoil engine oil do I want for a texas car that sees 15-20 track days per year, and how often should I change it?

at least 10w-40, call corky and ask.

but there are like 4 different amsoil oils in that weight.

cooler months? phoenix?

I looked at the AMSOIL's application guide and it lists for an 89 323 GTX; Above 16°F......20W-40, 20W-50

I had been using M1 10W-30 b/c Costco sold it at a good price. They don't have 10W-30 anymore.

Looks like I'll be switching to the Amsoil 20W-50.

Chris

You'd want AMO 10w40. That's what I was running during summertime track events down here in South Florida. I was SC'd with an external oil cooler. I just did a Sebring event this past weekend with 10w30 to see how it ran. I'm going to send off a sample since I got that free test kit. I'd run the 10w40 for an OT'd Turbo Miata since the oil is pulling extra duty.

how cute, we can compare results. :gay::dancegay:

Yea, got about 1000 miles on the oil, so I figure what the heck.

I race a turbo miata and have been using m1 15/50. A few weeks ago a mechanic told me to go with AMSOIL Diesel. Any experience with this as I notice that no one has brought this up as a better oil for high performance/racing applications?

I run 15w50 in my car. With oil temps over 275 degrees on-track, I felt that 10w30 wasn't going to cut it much longer. Ideally you would change the oil before every track day, but if that's going to be 12 times a year, it's probably overkill. You can probably do 2-3 track days or 3000 miles on oil you're tracking and be safe.

Diesel oil has more detergents and I believe a more robust additive package for antiwear. Your mechanic may have told you to run the diesel oil since it would prevent turbo coking better than gasoline oil. Seems like a lot of guys on bobistheoilguy.com run diesel oil in their gas fueled vehicles.

BTW, I checked a couple quart bottles I have at home, and the API label is not shown on the 10w30 and 10w40 bottles I have. Probably means their additive package is still really good, and not watered down according to the new standards out there.

I'm probably going to run 3 track days, then send a sample off and see how it looks.

Oil temps of 275 are going to beat up on any oil. IMHO over 250 is no-no territory.

I had my old vr6 up to 310 once when I was a dumbass 19 year old running from the police like a dumbfuck.

all i hear about is amsoil, redline, and m1...

you guys ever thought about Greddy turbo oil? i heard it's pretty good, but like 8$ a quart....and it's blue *droooool*

royal purple:bigtu: get it for free from friend works at automotive warehouse

wanna hook a brother up? i pay for shipping ;)

Since M1 is about the same price as Amsoil, I bought enough for the Minivan and the Miata for a year.

i ruuns amsoil in my honduuh odyssey, racee prepped and track ready w00t w00t lol.... nahh i'm messin with you :)

my mom's odyssey DOES run amsoil tho (my uncle paid for it.... wish he paid for MY cars damnit)

and so does my aunt.... she's just rich and has the cash to burn

Oil cooler is sitting in my garage, waiting for a Mocal thermostat sandwich adapter. :bigtu: