MSM into a 99.
07-27-2015, 10:04 AM
#21
mkturbo.com
iTrader: (24)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 15,176
Total Cats: 1,680
After a quick read through of this it seems like you want to do a ton of things at once, MS install, msn motor and turbo install, change coils, and maybe some other things. I honestly think you should split it up into a few different steps.
1. Install MSM motor into the 99, do not install the MSM turbo goodies. Put on stock header from 99 and IM. Get the car running on the stock ECU.
2. Install the MS and get yourself familiar with it and tuning a stock motor.
3. Install the aftermarket coils of your choice.
4. Install the MSM turbo goodies. Retune to MS for boost and enjoy the car.
1. Install MSM motor into the 99, do not install the MSM turbo goodies. Put on stock header from 99 and IM. Get the car running on the stock ECU.
2. Install the MS and get yourself familiar with it and tuning a stock motor.
3. Install the aftermarket coils of your choice.
4. Install the MSM turbo goodies. Retune to MS for boost and enjoy the car.
Reply
0
0
07-27-2015, 10:11 AM
#22
Lars, that's not such a great idea.
-they have different wiring, so oem ecu will require a full wiring swap and oem immobilizer/ring/key
-coils will need to be addressed if he plans to retain his 99 wiring, which he is
-what would be the point in swapping parts a bunch of times?
This would appear to be one of the rare exceptions where OP would be forced to swap more than 1 thing at a time vs our forum "rule" of suggesting the variables be kept as few as possible
-they have different wiring, so oem ecu will require a full wiring swap and oem immobilizer/ring/key
-coils will need to be addressed if he plans to retain his 99 wiring, which he is
-what would be the point in swapping parts a bunch of times?
This would appear to be one of the rare exceptions where OP would be forced to swap more than 1 thing at a time vs our forum "rule" of suggesting the variables be kept as few as possible
Reply
0
0
07-27-2015, 10:28 AM
#23
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 265
Total Cats: 0
Thanks TorqueZombie.
Yea, ideally I want to finish this all at once. And will probably stay with the MSM coils for the time being. Especially since it looks like it is just a matter of rewiring the connector. Later, when I start working on power upgrades, I'll switch to better cops.
Yea, ideally I want to finish this all at once. And will probably stay with the MSM coils for the time being. Especially since it looks like it is just a matter of rewiring the connector. Later, when I start working on power upgrades, I'll switch to better cops.
Reply
0
0
07-27-2015, 10:52 AM
#24
mkturbo.com
iTrader: (24)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 15,176
Total Cats: 1,680
Lars, that's not such a great idea.
-they have different wiring, so oem ecu will require a full wiring swap and oem immobilizer/ring/key
-coils will need to be addressed if he plans to retain his 99 wiring, which he is
-what would be the point in swapping parts a bunch of times?
This would appear to be one of the rare exceptions where OP would be forced to swap more than 1 thing at a time vs our forum "rule" of suggesting the variables be kept as few as possible
-they have different wiring, so oem ecu will require a full wiring swap and oem immobilizer/ring/key
-coils will need to be addressed if he plans to retain his 99 wiring, which he is
-what would be the point in swapping parts a bunch of times?
This would appear to be one of the rare exceptions where OP would be forced to swap more than 1 thing at a time vs our forum "rule" of suggesting the variables be kept as few as possible
All the connectors on the engine should be the same between the two so using the stock harness should be no problem. No need to worry about the immobilizer.
What I'm afraid of is him trying to get an MS working on a new motor in the car, with new coils, with a possibly altered wiring harness, and then it not working for whatever reason and trying to chase down whats the problem. For someone with limited experience it can be a huge pain.
Reply
0
0
07-27-2015, 11:05 AM
#25
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 265
Total Cats: 0
I can fully understand the concern. Fortunately I have some VERY knowledgable buddies when it comes to tuning a boosted Miata with a MS. I should be able to get it running initally with one of the canned MSM tunes online, then get one of them to walk me thru the fine tuning. The motor itself ran beautifully before it was pulled a few months ago, so I foresee no mechanical issues. *crosses fingers*
Also this isn't my first boosted Miata, just my first turbo Miata. Prior to Ryu, I owned Big Gulp for a while. Now THAT was a finicky ******.
Also this isn't my first boosted Miata, just my first turbo Miata. Prior to Ryu, I owned Big Gulp for a while. Now THAT was a finicky ******.
Reply
0
0
07-28-2015, 12:40 PM
#26
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 265
Total Cats: 0
Ok, to be sure I am covering my bases...
This is what I need to order, to run the 2004 Mazdaspeed motor in my 99?
DIYPNP Nippon Denso 76pin Unassembled Kit DIYAutoTune.com
USB to Serial Adapter - Works with TunerStudio! DIYAutoTune.com
Am I missing anything? And do I need to use the 99 Alternator? Or can I use the 2004 Alternator? Is there a difference? I am thinking the 04 is controlled internally and the 99 by the ECU right?
Thanks!
This is what I need to order, to run the 2004 Mazdaspeed motor in my 99?
DIYPNP Nippon Denso 76pin Unassembled Kit DIYAutoTune.com
USB to Serial Adapter - Works with TunerStudio! DIYAutoTune.com
Am I missing anything? And do I need to use the 99 Alternator? Or can I use the 2004 Alternator? Is there a difference? I am thinking the 04 is controlled internally and the 99 by the ECU right?
Thanks!
Last edited by viriiguy; 07-28-2015 at 04:28 PM.
Reply
0
0
07-28-2015, 06:22 PM
#30
Elite Member
iTrader: (37)
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Very NorCal
Posts: 10,441
Total Cats: 1,899
At one point I was days away from doing this swap on my 2000. In for victory!
Gesso is actually running a MSM engine in his Exocet using the stock NB1 wiring, sensors, intake manifold and ECU. No turbo stuff though, its just NA (for now.) If you start a build thread here on MT, please post a link to it in this thread so we can follow along
Gesso is actually running a MSM engine in his Exocet using the stock NB1 wiring, sensors, intake manifold and ECU. No turbo stuff though, its just NA (for now.) If you start a build thread here on MT, please post a link to it in this thread so we can follow along
Reply
0
0
07-28-2015, 06:56 PM
#32
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 265
Total Cats: 0
Will do! I almost have the 99 motor unbolted. My Carpal Tunnel is slowing me down.. a LOT. And I just ordered my ECU kit. So I will start building it as soon as it gets here. I will work on a build thread once I am able to show some progress.
Yea, it is flat out nuts!! There is no doubt what ANYTHING is, or where it goes! I'm loving it!
*Late Edit*
Thinking about it, I see no reason for this thread to not be a build thread. I'll just keep updating it. Unless 18psi and the other admins would rather I start another one.
Yea, it is flat out nuts!! There is no doubt what ANYTHING is, or where it goes! I'm loving it!
*Late Edit*
Thinking about it, I see no reason for this thread to not be a build thread. I'll just keep updating it. Unless 18psi and the other admins would rather I start another one.
Last edited by viriiguy; 07-28-2015 at 07:48 PM.
Reply
0
0
07-28-2015, 09:07 PM
#33
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 265
Total Cats: 0
I'm sure glad Tom gave me the complete Fuel system for the MSM. Turns out the fuel pump is different. And I had JUST installed a new fuel pump. Ah well.. I'll do it again 
Reply
0
0
07-29-2015, 10:36 AM
#34
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 265
Total Cats: 0
I got up early this morning to work in the garage. Only 4 pesky transmission bolts left holding the motor in place now. However, It got ungodly hot in the garage real quick. So I decided to pull the new motor out onto the driveway for some minor cleaning.
It was almost spotless, but I wanted it completely spotless for the install. I learned some important facts.
1. It is REALLY easy to spin the motor on its side with that stand, to clean the bottom of the oil pan. Righting it back up again however, is a whole different story. Good thing I had the engine hoist.
2. What oil WAS in the motor, was very clean and golden in color.
3. Asphalt becomes like ice when coated in engine oil.
4. Oil does not pad ones fall. Ouch.
It was almost spotless, but I wanted it completely spotless for the install. I learned some important facts.
1. It is REALLY easy to spin the motor on its side with that stand, to clean the bottom of the oil pan. Righting it back up again however, is a whole different story. Good thing I had the engine hoist.
2. What oil WAS in the motor, was very clean and golden in color.
3. Asphalt becomes like ice when coated in engine oil.
4. Oil does not pad ones fall. Ouch.
Reply
0
0
07-29-2015, 02:13 PM
#35
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 265
Total Cats: 0
Ok, so Step one... I depowered my steering rack a long time ago. I would never go back, I LOVE it... But I was really missing having AC. I have searched and searched for an idler pulley, but none to be found. So what to do?
Well, I could have a friend make one for me.. But, this way was free!
I gutted my power steering pump! And here is a quick run down of how I did it.
I do not know ALL the correct terms for the doohickies, but I will do my best
Take off your Power steering pump and remove the four 12 mm bolts from the back.
This is the inside of your pump. Isn't it pretty?<br/>See those slots with the metal pieces in them? We want those out.
So, turn the pump over and shake out all the vanes. The outer sleeve will come out too. Also, any fluid in it, will spill out.
These are the vanes. We don't want them. They cause horsepower robbing restriction. We want as little of that as possible!
Put the outer sleeve back in and then remove the nipple on the top left in this picture.
This is the nipple and the valve under it. Throw the valve away with the vanes. We do not need it.
Plug the hole in the nipple. I used Quickweld epoxy. Great stuff!
Put it all back together, fill it with power steering fluid and cap off the hose nipple. Reinstall in your car and enjoy your free idler pulley and your AC with manual steering!
Well, I could have a friend make one for me.. But, this way was free!
I gutted my power steering pump! And here is a quick run down of how I did it.
I do not know ALL the correct terms for the doohickies, but I will do my best
Take off your Power steering pump and remove the four 12 mm bolts from the back.
This is the inside of your pump. Isn't it pretty?<br/>See those slots with the metal pieces in them? We want those out.
So, turn the pump over and shake out all the vanes. The outer sleeve will come out too. Also, any fluid in it, will spill out.
These are the vanes. We don't want them. They cause horsepower robbing restriction. We want as little of that as possible!
Put the outer sleeve back in and then remove the nipple on the top left in this picture.
This is the nipple and the valve under it. Throw the valve away with the vanes. We do not need it.
Plug the hole in the nipple. I used Quickweld epoxy. Great stuff!
Put it all back together, fill it with power steering fluid and cap off the hose nipple. Reinstall in your car and enjoy your free idler pulley and your AC with manual steering!
Reply
0
0
08-05-2015, 09:38 PM
#36
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 265
Total Cats: 0
Still slowly making progress. I am currently digging around trying to solve what exactly this ignition condenser on the MSM engine is and how I can replace it.. or if I can just remove it all together.
The MSM motor has all the same connectors as the 99.. Except for one difference. The Ignition connector on the front of the 99 motor. The MSM has an identical connector, but it goes to the Ignition condenser instead. The MSM ignition harness just comes off the back of the main engine harness. Of coarse, I plan to change this.. Which leaves me with figuring out the condenser, which my 99 doesn't have.
I am THINKING it can just be replaced with a resistor... But I am not sure yet and information on it is practically non-existent. So far, this is all I have found.
FM Big Spark Kit Install Questions
The MSM motor has all the same connectors as the 99.. Except for one difference. The Ignition connector on the front of the 99 motor. The MSM has an identical connector, but it goes to the Ignition condenser instead. The MSM ignition harness just comes off the back of the main engine harness. Of coarse, I plan to change this.. Which leaves me with figuring out the condenser, which my 99 doesn't have.
I am THINKING it can just be replaced with a resistor... But I am not sure yet and information on it is practically non-existent. So far, this is all I have found.
FM Big Spark Kit Install Questions
Reply
0
0
08-07-2015, 10:24 AM
#39
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 265
Total Cats: 0
Even easier then! I am just about ready to drop the motor in. I am picking up an NA Alternator tomorrow morning.. and trying to find the wiring diagram for the NB1 Coils, so I can wire the MSM Coils up correctly. Then in goes the motor and hopefully a test fire soon there after!
Reply
0
0
08-07-2015, 01:08 PM
#40
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 265
Total Cats: 0
Well, that was a LOT easier than I had it in my head. I just love when I over complicate ****. Tomorrow I pick up my new alternator and start putting it all back together!
Reply
0
0
