My 1995 can't pass inspection and runs terribly
 

I'm at a loss. I've done new plug wires, run a gallon of water through the intake plenum (carbon killer) and cleaned the EGR. I don't know where spark time is because the idiot who owned it before me put an under-drive pulley on it, but mechanical timing is right. When I retard timing to what looks like a normal range for the CAS, it misfires and is basically undrivable.

The car detonates, bad, and I know it's weak in #2. The idle is pretty much all over the place. Sometimes 1200rpm, sometimes 800, there is always a 400rpm drop with the AC.

I was 4x the limit on NOX and HC.

Also, when I put MS on this car, will it pass with no EGR?

Thanks for the help.

I interpret this to mean the timing belt and cam pulleys are all properly aligned with both sets of cam lobes on #1 facing outwards at TDC? Just no mark on the pulley? I'd put a wood dowel down the #1 spark plug hole so you can see exactly where TDC is, make a little notch on that underdrive pulley by the 0 mark on the timing cover, then fire it up and set the timing without guessing.

Mine did this exact same thing when the timing belt slipped a tooth. Might want to double-check that when the belt and cam sprockets all look aligned properly with 19 belt teeth between the sprockets, you should be able to rotate the crank 720* and still have everything lined up exactly the same. If it doesn't, you're off by one or more teeth.

Possibly related to incorrect timing? Never had my idle this bad, can't say.

Improper timing, misfires, bad cat can all cause this I think.

Mine did. I mean, the EGR tube and valve are still on the car, but with the MAF unhooked from the stock ECU (my MS is in parallel) it's my understanding that EGR is rendered inoperative. Passed with flying colors on most aspects. Got close to the HC limit for the 25 mph portion, but I was datalogging the smog test and know it was running a little rich (low 14s AFR at 50-ish kPa), so I'll just pull a smidgen of fuel in that region for next time.

I'd start with the obvious- mark the crank pulley and get it timed properly, then go from there.

:makeout::pitlab:

Can you not swap back on a stock pulley instead of running the under drive one?

I would definitely check and see if the timing belt did jump any teeth.

As for EGR, is your car OBD1 or OBD2? If it is OBD1 you should be able to get it to pass fine with the engine swap.

OBD1. I'm relatively certain the crank and cams are in sync.

no friendly inspectors?

They're pretty hard to come by these days. I don't know what I'm going to do for the turbo car next year. I might have to put a cat in it and find someone who likes cars.

I may just say "fuck it" and get a Mariner like this one:
http://images.craigslist.org/5O35V05...b8c7801925.jpg

Remove that underdrive POS pulley and put the stock back in, verify cam timing and 10* ignition timing.

Could be a slipped pulley d/t a loose pulley bolt. Might wanna take it off and check the key way. You'll have to in order to put a stock pulley in, which you WILL do.

lol @ finding a stock pulley.

Pull the plug on cyl 1
insert something long and skinny (screw driver, wooden dowel, piece of spaghetti, your dick) into spark plug hole
rotate engine while watching object to indicate tdc for cyl 1
make a mark on the pulley at the 0 degree mark on the timing indicator on the timing belt cover
attach timing light and verify timing

it'll at least get you in the ball park

Done. I'm definitely not off a tooth.

I find it hard to believe, that in Texas of all places, you're having difficulty finding someone to help out a fellow white man.

I just want to give a shout out to all the assholes who complain about california's smog laws. fuck you very much.

I no speaky Spanish.

My 95 passes just fine with no EGR. I'd guess yours would too.

Can we all agree that mechanically its timed correctly?

Yup. That looks right to me.

Apparently this motor is fucked.

What are the compression and leak down numbers? Oh, you haven't done it yet? Oh, you're wasting our time?

Compression was bad 1-year ago. I don't have either piece of equipment in the garage. Sure, I know, just buy one. I already bought a bunch of other shit. I guess its time to find a better car.

Think of it as an oppertunity to upgrade your green machine. Drop that engine in the DD, LS1 in the green machine. If you think about it, it's really your ONLY choice.

This aside, I'd really like to have EGR functioning since I have the hardware in place. Anybody know if there's a simple circuit that can be built to trigger it?

Sorry for the thread-jack.

Me is starting to think the CAS and or coil pack is bad. However, I've initiated the search for a 1.6 chassis. Hopefully Reverant can switch my MS2 order if I change cars. I have powerful desire to see a 2001 swap in a Mariner Miata.

lol @ $1500 for a cast 10:1 bottom end and freshened-up VVT or regular head from Day Custom Engines, lol.

If you need a compression tester I have one.

OK, let's meet up tonight then. Do you want to deliver or for me to pick it up?

Ok, so NOx is 4200 (1200 allowable) and HC is 2800 (700 allowable). I do not have any smoke out the exhaust pipe. It will not take less than max spark angle. I have a new MSM PCV valve on it. The tach acts fine, leading me to believe the coil pack and the CAS is OK. I also have an EGR code (flashing light). What do the experienced people think I need to do?

Why would you spend $1500 on a 1.8 that's been molested when you can spend $1500 on this bone stock all-original 1.6 motor & trans? LMAO
http://baltimore.craigslist.org/pts/2585638706.html

You are running very lean for some reason I think. That is what causes high HC and Nox in the cases I have seen. Things that come to mind: O2 Sensor, FPR, Fuel Pump, clogged Fuel Filter, clogged injectors, Catalytic Convertor .

Advanced spark will cause the NoX to be high and I believe they had a high HC which was attributed it to a FPR in one case. I want to say it was making him lean and not rich.

I have a spare CAS, spare O2 (they're like $7 anyhow), and pretty sure a stock pulley.

I'm trying the fuel filter later today, then I'm not sure what's next. I'm guess there's a fuel problem somewhere, which makes sense that I need so much advance to make it idle. I assume that with less advance its opening the intake valve and catching an unwelcome surprise.

More like $80.

BRB, installing LC-1 in Shitbox car.

If you need the pnp one. You can get the generic 4 wire Bosch for cheap and you just splice it in yourself. I have done that plenty of times.

Now we're talking.

What Rob said.

Let me know if you need anything.


I'd offer the motor, but it's a 1.6L. Coming out soon for something with a little more balls.

I've got a spare 4 wire o2 that's all wired up and a cat you can borrow.

Thanks. I may have found someone to help me out though. I did the fuel filter just now and I still get the EGR light. Its funny to think that now I'm going to put MS2 on this car so it will pass the sniffer. lol

Holy motherfuck that's a lot of NOx.
Wait, your CEL is flashing? On a '95? I've only seen this on OBDII cars, indicating a catalyst damaging misfire. EGR would explain your high NOx though, and a misfire would explain your HC which is through the fucking roof. Specifically a misfire from running super lean.

New injectors? Just cause it's not turbo'd doesn't mean they can't stick. Plenty of 1.8 injectors buzzing around. Including mine.

No, it comes on when I cruise, the diagnostic test says its the EGR.

I also forgot to state that the shop refused to do the test with the hood open or a fan going. I wonder if running the car with the hood closed is increasing intake temps and I wonder if they legally can open the hood to test it.

That's weird when I had my 90 done last week they did it with the hood open.

I have a brand new 94-96 magnaflow cat that I bought just for the sniffer.
It's sitting on a shelf in my garage now. Feel free to borrow it if yours is shot and you need one to pass.

Compression (1-4)
150psi, 150psi, 130psi, 150psi
I'm guessing the gauge is off because I seriously doubt 3 cylinders are not "evenly damaged". I'll compare on the turbo car in a couple hours after I "get my crunk on".

Leak #'s:
Harbor freight gauge fail.

Lol, time to post in the "HF: Win or fail thread"

I don't think a bad cylinder could get 130psi even on crappy gauge...could be wrong though.

You have a crappy idle and EGR problems....me thinks you should fix the EGR and go from there. You said you looked at the EGR but it sounds like it's sticking.