Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1464489)
Most broke and boosted setups can't keep up with a v6 Camry.
Those that can keep up with a v6 Camry can't idle well and get less mileage than a 1980's full size pickup truck. Ones that can beat a v6 Camry are few and have engines that don't last long. Proper timing and fueling lets you tune for all the power, plenty of engine longevity, and off-boost economy. And you are a computer guy so you will LOVE tuning! |
The point still stand; 301 brake hp means probably 270 at the wheels, in a car that ways 1000+ lbs more than a stock NB2...
**edit** It was a good guess, but it turns out I was being generous: |
Exactly, it doesn't really matter.
Having issues overtaking a compact economy sedan on the road in a turbocharged modified "sports car" is pathetic. At a certain point you come to realize the meeting of Benjamin Franklins words: "The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten" |
1. The new Camry looks great.
2. I love that quote and need to use it more often. 3. It sounds funny, 'till your turbo miata ACTUALLY gets skunked by some hot mom sipping a diet coke, in a Camry, who didn't know you were racing.. She was just in a hurry to get home to pretend like she wasn't out humping the 20 yr. old from the grocery store. |
I like the quotes in my sig better.
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1464489)
Most broke and boosted setups can't keep up with a v6 Camry.
Those that can keep up with a v6 Camry can't idle well and get less mileage than a 1980's full size pickup truck. Ones that can beat a v6 Camry are few and have engines that don't last long. Proper timing and fueling lets you tune for all the power, plenty of engine longevity, and off-boost economy. And you are a computer guy so you will LOVE tuning! |
There are several people here with tablets being used for gauges and running Tunerstudio to do it. A little searching on the site and you can probably find them.
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Thinking about getting either an ACT HD clutch kit with an F1 racing 10lb flywheel, or a clutch kit by McLeod I've seen on moss miata. I haven't seen any reviews or threads that indicate that it's been used but it's a decent price.
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I have an ACT XT on the light weight F1 flywheel and couldn't be happier.
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Get a fm1 or 949 organic clutch, reuse stock flywheel. Cheaper then your plan.
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Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1466500)
Get a fm1 or 949 organic clutch, reuse stock flywheel. Cheaper then your plan.
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ACT XTSS will hold all the power and engage smoothly and last forever. Don't waste money on a flywheel when you need other things first.
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I think the supermiata 1.6 clutch is the best choice for me. decent price with plenty of room for my power goals. I’m planning to pull the engine and transmission out so that I can prep the engine with new gaskets and seals. I’m leaking oil and coolant somewhere so I’ll probably be able to iron that out while I’m at it (have to wait because my “reliable daily’s” door lock broke and it’s electric locks don’t work”) hopefully I can save the money to get both a DIYPNP and clutch at the same time. I will probably try to find some green top Supra injectors or something similar (will be doing more research on injectors). While the engine is out, the engine bay is going to be clean and spray painted either the original red or black and I will be doing the wiring of the wideband and boost gauge while I’m at it. This will probably all be done before or after I graduate so here’s hoping I can drive the car for summer |
never understood adding a boost gauge. Set and forget in Tuner Studio
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Totally disagree about a LWFW. Light weight fly wheel was one of the best mods Ive done, boosted or not. But if you're not specifically after LW, then I'd agree you're wasting money.
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Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit
(Post 1466580)
never understood adding a boost gauge. Set and forget in Tuner Studio
My boost gauge is coming out. AFR is also gone. The AFR served a purpose for a short time. Boost gauge is for show only. In the end, use the MS and TS with proper safety settings to control. |
Originally Posted by DNMakinson
(Post 1466603)
Agree
My boost gauge is coming out. AFR is also gone. The AFR served a purpose for a short time. Boost gauge is for show only. In the end, use the MS and TS with proper safety settings to control. |
millions of OEM's drive without it every day, let alone have it but simply not diplay it.
the key is the tune and the built in failsafes |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1466925)
millions of OEM's drive without it every day, let alone have it but simply not diplay it.
the key is the tune and the built in failsafes |
I was in your position a couple years ago. It will take you roughly $2,500 to turbocharge your car reliably for a good power level (200 whp). I went the ms1 route, it's extremely basic but even for the $200 i paid for it from savington it's heaps better than the fmu.
I would recommend getting the ms1 from DIY with a stimulator, get your IAT and wideband installed. Put the megasquirt together, yeah the mods are pretty old but the info is out there. Get the car running NA Find a good second hand clutch, I paid $135 for my ACT HD Add bigger injectors (Rx7's or carefully look for OEM rx8 ones) Find a manifold for your application select a turbo with the characteristics you like Make a down pipe/ exhaust Set up intercooler Learn to tune/ bring to tuner Enjoy having a somewhat fast car that doesn't run like absolute donkey dick Also you may think you've read enough but it's clear that you still need to keep reading some more. I loosely followed the directions that the senior members gave me a while back and big surprise, things broke when they told me they would and were fine when I bought what they told me too. |
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