My key no longer works in my trunk, what do I do?
I've tried more than one key, no worky. What's next?
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I was sure the thread title was a sexual euphemism.
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Use the latch hook inside the car.
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Originally Posted by concealer404
(Post 941120)
Use the latch hook inside the car.
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I agree. I loathe getting gas in my car because i have to pop my fucking shoulder out of socket to pull that shit.
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Does the trunk use a different key than the ignition?
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 941116)
I've tried more than one key, no worky. What's next?
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Originally Posted by Erat
(Post 941130)
Does the trunk use a different key than the ignition?
Mazda used absolutely terrible locks on their cars in the 80s through mid 90s. |
I'm trying to keep the same key for both ignition and trunk. Thanks for the offers, but I'd do a secret cable before multiple keys.
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The question is, WHY isn't the key working? Key too worn? Lock too worn? Lock frozen? I always have a key made when I get a new vehicle. It gets the name scribed on the side, and only gets used to make new keys if necessary.
If it's the lock itself, it's easy enough to take apart (simple directions on M.net) and you can clean it up and lubricate it properly (graphite) to get it working again. I'd also recommend you do the cable release lockout mod at the same time, as it makes the trunk more secure. Once again, instructions are on M.net. The hardest part of disassembling a lock is making sure the springs don't send tiny parts flying, and then getting the pins all back in the same bores in the correct orientation. If you work methodically and carefully, you can refurb the lock in about an hour and make it work like new. Clean the spooge out of the lock body with brake cleaner or acetone. |
i broke my DD key in the trunk keyway last weekend.
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Mine is a tad troublesome. I have to get it just right or it just feels like the entire lock assembly is moving, I really should check and see if its tight. I also almost broke off a key in the trunk by not inserting all the way and then twisting when the thinnest part of the key was at the edge of the lock. It felt like I had hit the back wall but I still had some of it sticking out of the hole.
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Take the passenger lock cylinder out, and read the code off it, and take that code to a proper locksmith. They can make keys from that code, perfect fit. Make several.
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Originally Posted by concealer404
(Post 941128)
I agree. I loathe getting gas in my car because i have to pop my fucking shoulder out of socket to pull that shit.
2: Lubricating the cable is quite easy. From the "outside", with the cover open, remove the one large nut which secures the peg in place, and then remove the assembly. (I think there might also be one screw or bolt which needs to be removed from the in-trunk side. Can't remember.) Once it's out, use a bicycle-style cable lubricator on the cable. Clean up the mechanism on the end and coat with lithium grease. 3: The metal tab which engages the plastic pin can be adjusted simply by bending. Make sure everything else is in order first, and consider this a fine-adjust. |
Originally Posted by Joe Perez
(Post 941256)
1: If you are using any kind of aftermarket gas cap, chances are that it is too tall, and is pressing against the underside of the lid when closed. This makes it very difficult to open. You can grind some plastic off the top of the cap to relieve this problem.
2: Lubricating the cable is quite easy. From the "outside", with the cover open, remove the one large nut which secures the peg in place, and then remove the assembly. (I think there might also be one screw or bolt which needs to be removed from the in-trunk side. Can't remember.) Once it's out, use a bicycle-style cable lubricator on the cable. Clean up the mechanism on the end and coat with lithium grease. 3: The metal tab which engages the plastic pin can be adjusted simply by bending. Make sure everything else is in order first, and consider this a fine-adjust. |
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 941261)
I can't really reach it with my right arm because I am too pumped. I also can't reach it with my left arm because...I am too pumped.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 941264)
Same problem. I just do it after I get out of the car.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 941266)
I refuse to believe that anyone competing in FSAE has ever seen the inside of a gym in their life.
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i have two not so secret cables for the fuel and trunk so i can pop them both from the back. I guess you could hide them behind the plate if you wanted.
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So i only have one key for my car, and it works the ignition but not the trunk. Should i have 2 keys??
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Originally Posted by shanem
(Post 941317)
i have two not so secret cables for the fuel and trunk so i can pop them both from the back. I guess you could hide them behind the plate if you wanted.
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Originally Posted by Erat
(Post 941322)
So i only have one key for my car, and it works the ignition but not the trunk. Should i have 2 keys??
Some later-model Miatas (not sure when this started) also came with a Valet key, which opens the doors and operates the ignition, but does not open the trunk, glovebox or center console. Or maybe they were always like that and I've just never bought one that still had the Valet key. |
Originally Posted by Joe Perez
(Post 941327)
In the original configuration, the "main" key should operate all locks- ignition, doors, trunk, glovebox, center console.
Some later-model Miatas (not sure when this started) also came with a Valet key, which opens the doors and operates the ignition, but does not open the trunk, glovebox or center console. Or maybe they were always like that and I've just never bought one that still had the Valet key. |
Originally Posted by Joe Perez
(Post 941327)
ISome later-model Miatas (not sure when this started) also came with a Valet key, which opens the doors and operates the ignition, but does not open the trunk, glovebox or center console. Or maybe they were always like that and I've just never bought one that still had the Valet key.
The key I've been using has a small crack in it and hasn't been opening the door lock without a fair amount of force. I'm a little worried to say the least. So I grabbed one of the many keys I got from my dad who he got from the guy my dad bought the car off. Following me? This key opened the driver's door beautifully, I was seconds from swapping it with my cracked key, but since I had just read this thread I decided to try it in my center console and trunk. No dice. TL;DR, my '93 did indeed come with a valet key. |
I have a 90 which I got from my aunt (she was the original owner) and it came with a valet key. So looks like they all came with a valet key. My valet key does not have the black stuff (not sure what it is) around the top of the key from mazda, but my "main" key does. Of course with a copy all bets are off
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FYI, any Miata-like key works in my green car. I had to valet it once and the guy tried to explain to me that one Miata key goes to the ignition, the other the trunk. I assured him that each key was for a specific Miata, he insisted I was wrong. That's why he's parking cars and I'm eating Petrossian in his shitty hotel.
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Victor Petrossian? I went to school with him, I didn't know you two were dating.
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Remove lock, take it to a locksmith. He will give it a good servicing. Problem solved.
I did this for the ignition switch on an impala last year and it cost $45. It works good as new with the original key. |
stop shoving big black keys into your trunk lock all the time
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