I've tried more than one key, no worky. What's next?

 

I was sure the thread title was a sexual euphemism.

 

Use the latch hook inside the car.

 

That really sucks. Maybe I will do a secret cable under the car.

 

I agree. I loathe getting gas in my car because i have to pop my ******* shoulder out of socket to pull that ****.

 

Does the trunk use a different key than the ignition?

 

I can probably sell you a key and a trunk tumbler. You would have an ignition key and a trunk key like older cars do, but at least it's an option. Trunk tumbler installs with two bolts. If interested I'll have to do some digging in the parts to make sure I have an ignition/trunk set with two keys so I have another key to sell with an ignition tumbler.

 

It probably DIDN'T, but it probably will in the future.

Mazda used absolutely terrible locks on their cars in the 80s through mid 90s.

 

I'm trying to keep the same key for both ignition and trunk. Thanks for the offers, but I'd do a secret cable before multiple keys.

 

The question is, WHY isn't the key working? Key too worn? Lock too worn? Lock frozen? I always have a key made when I get a new vehicle. It gets the name scribed on the side, and only gets used to make new keys if necessary.

If it's the lock itself, it's easy enough to take apart (simple directions on M.net) and you can clean it up and lubricate it properly (graphite) to get it working again. I'd also recommend you do the cable release lockout mod at the same time, as it makes the trunk more secure. Once again, instructions are on M.net.

The hardest part of disassembling a lock is making sure the springs don't send tiny parts flying, and then getting the pins all back in the same bores in the correct orientation. If you work methodically and carefully, you can refurb the lock in about an hour and make it work like new. Clean the spooge out of the lock body with brake cleaner or acetone.

 

i broke my DD key in the trunk keyway last weekend.

 

Mine is a tad troublesome. I have to get it just right or it just feels like the entire lock assembly is moving, I really should check and see if its tight. I also almost broke off a key in the trunk by not inserting all the way and then twisting when the thinnest part of the key was at the edge of the lock. It felt like I had hit the back wall but I still had some of it sticking out of the hole.

 

Take the passenger lock cylinder out, and read the code off it, and take that code to a proper locksmith. They can make keys from that code, perfect fit. Make several.

 

1: If you are using any kind of aftermarket gas cap, chances are that it is too tall, and is pressing against the underside of the lid when closed. This makes it very difficult to open. You can grind some plastic off the top of the cap to relieve this problem.

2: Lubricating the cable is quite easy. From the "outside", with the cover open, remove the one large nut which secures the peg in place, and then remove the assembly. (I think there might also be one screw or bolt which needs to be removed from the in-trunk side. Can't remember.)

Once it's out, use a bicycle-style cable lubricator on the cable. Clean up the mechanism on the end and coat with lithium grease.

3: The metal tab which engages the plastic pin can be adjusted simply by bending. Make sure everything else is in order first, and consider this a fine-adjust.

 

I can't really reach it with my right arm because I am too pumped. I also can't reach it with my left arm because...I am too pumped.

 

Same problem. I just do it after I get out of the car.

 

I refuse to believe that anyone competing in FSAE has ever seen the inside of a gym in their life.

 

I will admit there are weeks in the build season with those 20 hour build sessions its not possible to get into the gym.

 

i have two not so secret cables for the fuel and trunk so i can pop them both from the back. I guess you could hide them behind the plate if you wanted.

 

So i only have one key for my car, and it works the ignition but not the trunk. Should i have 2 keys??