My sister's MSM won't make boost for some reason...ideas, give them to me
 

It threw a belt last weekend at the track and apparently it took somewhere between 2-4 hours for several men to replace the belt...lots of stuff was removed. Then, it threw the belt off the next day on the way to work.

Soooooooooooooooooo I went over to my Sister's to replace a water pump belt (20-minutes, not 2-hours)and now that the car is back together it won't make any boost. It looks like all vac-hoses are hooked-up, none leak, and the boost-solenoid is connected. However, I'm concerned that it may be a mechanical issue since its making no boost and I can't hear the turbo spin-up, I'd expect too much boost if it were a vac-hose or boost control problem.

There are a lot of electronics in this car so I don't trust my judgment here. Any ideas on where I should start if:
every electrical connection is plugged-in
vac-hoses are connected properly
no disconnected intercooler piping
wastegate actuator moves with the aid of pliers
blow-off valve is still springy feeling, but a little soft compared to my tial and bosch valves

Here is a nifty diagram to reference:
http://www.mazda-speed.com/albums/Jims/MSMunderhood.jpg
p.s. My home-grown turbo car is more reliable and easier to work on than modern shit.

My professional guess would be to check either number 7 or number 15.

I checked your GF with my dipstick a couple times. She said my masculinity and sexuality triggered a physiological response stronger than any she ever experienced with a man outside of a few select NBA teams.

Dude....that one was goood. If you came up with that yourself I'm impressed. You both called his girl a whore, while insulting his masculinity all at the same time. I normally wouldn't comment, but I got a good chuckle out of that one.

I'm glad it's all in jest.




I would guess that something isn't right, electrically, that is prompting the ECU to tell the boost controller thingy to bleed off all pressure.

If it were mechanical (besides locked up turbine shaft) I'd expect it to still make at least a few pounds. Not going over 100kPa sounds like an engineered nanny to me.

:laugh: clever

I vote check the turbo inlet and make sure that little bugger isn't locked up. I don't think those came with a pop off valve to bleed boost and given the fact that it isn't speed density based, it would run like total dog shit if it blew a hose off.

lol


How does the wastegate open to stay at 100kpa if there is no boost to put it there? What spring is in the wastegate? Is there any way to check these sensors and solenoids or is this more dealer drama?

Its time for my sister to get away from this modern crap and get an NA.

This is my immediate fear that I could not communicate to my sister. Are MSM turbos failing after extended track use?

I really don't know anything about MSMs...pure speculation. I was assuming it was a solenoid operated unit or something.

Then again they did put a tiny, outdated, and weak IHI on those cars, so wouldn't be surprised if it's '50s tech.

Is the wastegate pushrod connected?
(I always tend to overlook the obvious, so, this may be the case)

Did you ever get to the track? Or, did the brakes not arrive in time?

if the turbo wasnt spinning (or more likely, the compresor wheel being fucked) you'd know it. This sounds like the ecu is being a fag like usual. Its either the ecu, the stock boost solenoid, or the stock bypass valve. Quit being a puss and slap on a manual boost controller, loop that shit stock piece, and it wouldnt hurt to try a different bypass valve, that stock piece is also fuckall worthless.

The actuator is hooked up correctly.

The brakes are still not here. Fed Ex says they were in Dallas, but then they went back in transit to Atlanta for some reason. Now they're back on their way to Dallas.

Link to instructions on this shit? It can't be this simple.

What should my target MAP be? I guess I need to find a spare boost gauge.

How exactly would that prevent boost except for boost cut? And you would KNOW if it was boost cut.

Cant lower boost below the wastegate minimum.

Ok, that would could be leaking to the point where you wouldn't make any boost. And because it is recirculated, you could theoretically leak all of the positive pressure through it and get a proper airflow signal, but I seriously doubt it. If that thing was leaking enough air that you got absolutely NO positive pressure at the manifold you would probably get some sort of weird reversion after the MAF that would cause fucked up airflow readings = the car would run like total and complete shit.

well if you'd like to start at the most difficult fix, go yank the turbo and try spinning it by hand! But I'd suggest checking the dumbass plastic bits first.

Its not that I like to start with the most difficult expensive shit, its that I like starting with the most logical. As much fun as it would be to chase magical boost leaking unicorns with rainbows coming out of their asses, I could just as easily save myself from wasting time and undo a few hose clamps, stick my fingers in the inlet of the turbo and give it a twirl (insert comment about your mom/sister/girlfriend/I'm getting lazy).

after checking a few threads over on the gay forums, I have found that 2 people have had this happen before on stock or near-stock MSM cars.

One guy had a leak post intercooler, and the other had a wastegate flapper that was stuck wide open.

The wastegate arm (at the turbine outlet, not the actuator visable from outside) is notoriously shit, so that seems plausible to me.

A broken flapper door does sound like a very plausible scenario.

If the arm is hooked up, the flapper is a very likely candidate. This scenario happened to me (non-MSM). That being said: taking off the intake and spinning the wheel does make sense as a first step since it takes considerably less time than removing the DP.

We can solve this issue much faster if you post nudes of your sister holding her turbo and manifold. Thank you.

That picture is clearly wrong about #1. The charcoal canister on NBs is actually located behind and below the pass seat under the car. That tank is more of a fuel vapor catch can and contains no charcoal. With that said, I would not trust all the other labels and numbers, they could be wrong as well.

How does the car drive? Like normal in vac? What happens at WOT? Is the car bone stock?

Shit, why didnt I think of that?

I am now withholding all other information until n00ds are presented (although I fear I have already said too much)

Engine is stock aside from a begi t-body pipe. The car drives fine like my 1995 at all throttle positions.

The wastegate arm will move when you pull on it with needle-nose pliers.

My bet is on a screwed up turbo.

take of the wastegate signal line, then drive it. if it makes boost then, your turbo isnt blown. it WILL over boost like crazy though so....

check for a leak on the intake side, all pipes, cooler & so-on (may have cracked when hit by the belt or something stupid like that) although unless its a big hole she should still make some boost, easy way to do this is by disconecting the pipe that connects to the TB & giving it a few revs to try & make boost, you will feel it at the pipe end. take the actuator conection right off the gate & see it if will freely move & if you can hear the gate "tap" closed, the gate maybe broken & moving it with the actuator connected will only prove that the gate isnt stuck opened. check that the bov is not stuck open (remove recirculating hose & check to see it the bov lets air through it as you rev trying to make boost. I dont think its electrical although i dont know anything about the msm, although they are all the same in theory.

Check the post-turbo intake piping to see if the belt cracked or broke a pipe or hose when it came off.

I know this but its kind of scary with no boost gauge.

Its fine.

Me too. Is it normal for a turbo to not last this long? That car probably has 50-hours of track time on it, maybe more.

First check your penis for shrinkage then take the intake appart already and spind the turbo if it's good disconnect the vaccumm hose of the wategate and check if your building boost that way...

Id just jam my dick into the compressor wheel while the engine is running and call it a day.

or you could.... QUIT FUCKING AROUND ON THE FORUM, GO WRENCH ON THE CAR, AND TAKE SOME GOOD PICS YOU FUCKSTICK!~

I have a job so I can pay tax money which goes to you and your shitty life of welfare and living off the affluent like myself.

Placing money on that bet now. MSM turbos are not known for being models of reliability.

Hay hustler, can I haz moar welfair munnies plox? I need money to buy dildoz. And as you know, you can not buy dildoz with food stamps (much to my chagrin).

If you were a real man, youd be working on the car in the parking lot at work anyways. SHIT IZ TUFF.

BTW: Here's my number, give it to your sister for me: (480)-232-9754
kthx~<3

I beat the shit out of mine at 15-16psi, tracked it and all and the day it came off the car, it was like new. Never had issues with it.

And Hustler, now is a good time to ahve your sister buy a boost gauge. That should've been on the car already from the start.

yea, I dunno what all this calamity is about the IHI being unreliable. Ive been running 12psi for a couple years now, its seen its fair share of redline-banging shenanigans on autocross days.

yes, because 40-seconds of 2nd gear is more demanding than 30-minute sessions of sustained glowing turbine.

If you pull the wastegate line and get boost, the ECU will kepp you from having too much fun...don't worry, it won't hurt anything. I've hit boost cut in my GF's MSM plenty of times.

Hey thar big spender, if you wanna compare e-peens lets take it to where it matters -- race from a roll on the highway. >:3

Don't you work for the government? So isn't it really you work so you can take money form all us to buy amazing AF stuff to make all of us jealous?

Pretty much.