You can do other things to adjust the clutch action. I'm using a 626 flywheel, b2000 clutch fork, b2000 throwout and a Miata 1.8 clutch/pp/disc. I used the length of the of the slave rod to get the action I wanted. What I noticed with a lot of the Miatas is there is a lot of slack between the slave rod and the fork. So if you're out of pedal adjustment, simply extending the rod will initiate clutch disengagement sooner.

Another thing to check is the throwout bearing. The thickness of the bearing assembly dictates when disengagement initiates. I once had a pressure plate that had an extra large bore at the diaphragm springs so the inner part of the TO bearing actually fit in the space between and that left the outer part of the bearing to press on the springs- but not enough to disengage the pp.

- rob

are your guys clutch forks bent or something? i just had to barley adjust mine, pedal height and pressure feels stock.

i have to question their ability to make each clutch the same.

to what m2cupcar said. thats true but this clutch seems to be funny with that. it begins to re engage very low... the prob, BUT it also never grabs fully untill the pedal is very high. if i were to extend the length of the slave it would ride the throwout bearing because its only fully engaged way up at the top of the pedal movement.

would my having a brand new clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder be causing my issue you think?

So I guess when you do the clutch install, you can measure the height of the TOB on top of the pressure plate, then try different parts to get the pedal in the right spot?

I don't doubt that. For sure the first thing to go when products get cheap is QC and the customer support that backs up the product. That's the risk you take and go into knowing it might be a bad experience. I've had bad clutches from brainstorm and spec. But I've also had good clutches from brainstorm, and others from spec.

I don't recommend removing all the tolerance from the slave piston to slave rod to fork, just anything that's obviously excessive. I have fixed one "stock" Miata clutch by tacking a nut on the end of the slave rod because there was nothing else to be done at the time and the car need to go back together. That left about 1/16" of "slack" so the TO bearing wasn't riding on the pp springs.

All the stuff I suggest was merely work-arounds to try. There is a point where nothing will fix an improperly built clutch. If your slave hasn't fully "self bled", then yes, that can improve your situation. After I swapped mine it was hard to get in gear, but after 300 miles it's perfect.

I must say that I considered the cheap clutch route, but after having the spec fail on me (again) I opted to fork over the dough for a quality disc (clutchnet IMO) and it's been great so far.

I think at this point if you decide to pull the trans you should be able to figure out what the problem is and replace that part. Of course you'll be running the same risk with the other parts, but I'd say at this point that if they're within spec and have worked up to this point, they'll probably be ok. I've seen the xtd disc and it's construction looks to be on par with most other discs... except my clutchnet. ;)

so some throw out bearings are differne sizes from eachother?

also... can i get a clutchnet pressure plate and still use my xtd disk and fix my pedal height issue and still hold the 220 whp?

heres $120 act disk,its a 6 puck.i think its cheap because it is unsprung.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ACT-X...78088363QQrdZ1

Attachment 216881

good throw out bearing vs xtd throw out bearing... hummm

thought it sounded kinda funny :gay: when i hit the clutch pedal

took the tranny out and i heard those peices fall out...

pressure plate looks good but i dont want my engagement point so low, can i go to a different pressure plate to fix it?

I'd say that the from manufacturer to manufacturer the tolerances would be very close for each specific model- not enough to make a significant difference. On the flip side if the other stuff is far enough out of tolerance, the wrong TO bearing could make the difference- being thicker would cause it to disengage sooner. All these parts are fundamentally the same. Unfortunately it's the research that takes all the time. It's either digging thru factory specs, or finding the used parts and checking them. Another option is just going to the parts store with a set of calipers and getting the parts guy to bring a bunch of parts to the counter. Just depends on the guy. I've done it. When I was looking for hoses the guys at autozone just sent me behind the counter and let me do all the work. ;)

As far as your current situation, you need to figure out exactly where your problem lies before determining what's going to fix it. Hopefully it lies within one piece that's way out of spec. Then you'll what to buy... or fix.

IMO this is where one gets burned buying the cheap stuff - if it is bad, then you're left with nothing but time wasting activities trying to fix your problem. It just depends on what you have to spend - time or money.

IF it were me, I'd probably start looking for a TO bearing that had the same bore size as the Miata shaft sleeve and check thicknesses. All you'd need to do is head down to the parts store and ask for a few of them- like the Escort GT/protege LX, ~88 B2000, 82 rx7, 88rx7... Makes a $300 clutch kit look cheap - eh? ;) - rob

did you check your slave-rod-fork tolerance? You might be able to fix some of that there, by tightening that up (but not removing all of it, to preven any constant pressure to the crank). Measure the total thickness of the trashed TO bearning too- if you can. That might reveal the source of the late disegagement. At least I hoping that was the problem since it fell apart. It takes very little movement for the clutch to disengage, so a failed bearing could be that amount taken away from the movement.

i just cant understand how people just sit back after somthing like this happens. sorry but if i buy somthing... say a toaster and the element burns out, it goes back and i get a new one.. no matter the brand. this is bull shit that you would even consider "rigging" it with parts from other cars. it shoudl work the way it is. but it dosnt so this shit is getting sent back. its probly caused enough damage to my transmission as it is.

I really think it's a calculated loss by the companies selling these products. It's the reason they are so much cheaper than a product that actually involves heavy coordination between the contracted manufacture and the company the ultimately sells the product. In your case, it really depends on the retailer you purchased it from and how they back up the product. But as often the case with the "chinese" products, the retailer's overhead is also so low that they'd rather lose a repeat customer than work a refund or even exchange a product. I hope that's not your case. Try them first, if no luck, then figure out exactly what is out of spec and causing the problem and replace that part with a "reputable" one.

Odd position for a guy running MS to take. The clutch was a calculated risk, just like MS.

But I DO feel bad for ya, and wish you the best of luck getting it warrantied or replaced.

will do, contacted the seller.

people consider ms a risk? that is the best investment i have made... well other than my poly bushings.. god i love these things!!!

can i not get a good answer on this... if i use the pressure plate from a different company will that change my pedal? (assuming i am using a stock miata tob)

i wouldnt have a prob eating the cost of the clutch i guess as long as i can use the disk. i just want it to work and i dont want the pedal on the floor.

Yes IF the geometry is different, no if it's exactly the same as the XTD. There's a lot of peices to the clutch setup and each controls a portion of the action.

sounds to me like i need alot infront of me to compare, which i do not have the ability to do. looks like ill change the tob and hope it was defecting and hope my pedal height changes, or hope for a return and get another clutch. either way this will put my plans out about 1 month and i have already missed half the fucking year's events i wanted to go to and its still not even tuned.

coudl i accually fix the issue with not being able to disengage my clutch fully, by moving the clutch fork pivot ball over to the side of the case a little and making my own clutch fork?

Yes, but it would be easier to change the postioning of the TO bearing by adjusting the end of the fork. Did you trash all your old clutch parts?

I still think it would be worthwhile to find out exactly which part is caused the problem, and why the TO failed. That might keep this or part of it from happening again. One thing that will tear up the TO bearing is too large of a center bore on the diaphragm springs- if the TO gets cocked on pedal action it's toast.

well it looks like the part that the tob slides on (input shaft surround) has been ruined by the throwout bearing also. :vash: what is this part called (hoping it is a part)

http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l1...o/DSCF0519.jpg

i would like to know what caused it also... but i cant tell. not really anyway for me to find out either. :(

I just install this clutch /xtd,stage 3/ ,and I cant shift any gear. Is it possible, that the problem is that I have got NB miata? /99, 1,6 81kW/