NA vs NB miata
 

so recently ive narrowed down my decision and I really want a miata. there are plenty of them for sale in jersey where I'm located but I'm torn between the NA or the NB. creature comforts or pop up headlights?

I'm not sure which model I should get as I have only test driven an NA.

any info and reasons to pick one over the other would be appreciated to help narrow my decision down!

It'd help if you knew what your plans with the car are going to be, and if you have any budget concerns.

Why buy something where you would "need" to change the engine after a while anyway?
Cost difference between a VVT (NB2, 01-05, whatever you name them) and something older i negligible IMO.

Sure, a 89 can be made lighter...

Every person is going to have their own opinion. Drive both. See which one you like. 90-93 NAs had weaker diffs and down on power. NBs got new styling, VVT on later years, etc. I have owned multiples of both, currently have an NB and would never go back to a NA. However there will be 500 ppl to chime in and tell me I'm crazy, the NA is better.

NB2.

It is just a better car overall. Projector lens headlights for nightime visability, more room for wider tires, chassis is stiffer, better ABS (find a car with abs) better engine (vvt intake cam, larger displacement and higher compression), big (sports) brakes, 6 speed trans, stronger diff, less bump steer (iirc) ...

Cons for NB2 are leg room is less with the oem invasive door cards, and its a heavier car by a few hundred pounds.

For a street car, I am on the NB2 boat, but I wouldn't sell my NA for one.

Are you going to be modifying it? What are the regional laws for inspection etc if you're planning that?
Goals etc. are nice to know!

Buy both so when one brakes you have a spare.

Really though there are big trade offs for both. And the common consensus around here is the 93 and older ones you should steer clear of. Not because they are bad cars, but because you have to change literally everything. The brakes are under-size, the chassis isnt as stiff, the motor is weaker, smaller fuel tank.

If it were me I would probably get the NB2

I have both at the moment and had very tough time selecting one. What I've realized in the end is that it does depend mostly on the purpose and the use of the car. For daily or true dual use - NB2 all the way. Ideally 2001-2002 LS with Sport package or SE. Now if you are serious about building a track dedicated car and want to do it for less - then NA. I thought I would do a full track build and got NA, but then thought about how often I would be able to get out to the actual track and since I'm not towing how it would feel driving there on a hot summer day in Southern California and decided that some comfort features wouldn't hurt. I've found it easier to find parts for 1.8 NA at reasonable prices on second-hand market, while NB2 goodies are somewhat less common and slightly more expensive.

To me NA: lighter, less stiff, less comfortable, easier to work on, easier to pass smog (94-95), easier to find parts, easier and cheaper to build a track car, not as good for daily. Looks lean and mean with the right parts, cool retro design inside and out.
NB2: heavier, more solid feel, slightly stiffer, a bit more power, a little more comfortable, better lights, looks a bit bloated but ergonomically inside I like it.

I would go for 01-02 NB2 SE or LS+Sport because: bigger brakes (Standard on 2003-2005), more reliable LSD than 2003-2005 except MSM, stiffer due to additional bracing. I see them as the sweet spot for daily or dual use.
If NA - 94-95 (R package or whatever you can find with LSD) due to ODB1 ,especially in strict SMOG control states, 1.8L engine.

I'm going to question sport brakes as Performance Friction makes excellent pads that fit the standard 1.8's, but not the sports brakes. For track use. For general use, there are also many options on the standard 1.8 to fit any need, like, for instance Hawk HPS.

There is some good general advice here.

Since you can't make up your own mind between NA or NB, I think the overriding rule for you is going to be just find a good solid car, especially being in New Jersey where I'm assuming rust will be an issue.

Personally I think the reality is that NA and NB are so similar and there is so much interchangeability of parts that objectively it doesn't matter a whole lot which you start with. It's mostly personal preference for things like styling, and then just finding a good solid car.

As an example, I bought a 93 a few years ago, I've driven it dailyish for several years, and done a couple track days and had a ton of fun, I've slowly been improving it. I got it because it was a solid rust free runner/driver for dirt cheap, and I also had a little preference for the NA6 dash style. After a while I started to think that I had screwed up by not holding out for a 1.8 car because I was going to need to swap engines and diffs to start making power. But 2 weeks ago I was able to go to the local pick and pull and I got a torsen and the driveshaft and a couple door trim pieces out of a 95 for $82 and a couple hours of rolling around in the dirt.. And I think I might just put a kraken or mkturbo on my 1.6 for power, 1.6 haters be damned.

So, yeah, the later cars come with the better stuff already on them, which has the potential to save some time and money in the long run, but it isn't necessarily all that much if you are willing to take your time and learn and do some bargain hunting.

Now, if you don't want to wrench on it yourself, and don't want to scrounge around in junk yards, and want the absolute easy button, go straight to an NB2 and don't look back.

Since your criteria for a car is just creature comforts and pop ups, pick the one you like best after you test drive it, just find a clean one. Deeper performance comparisons are plentiful on this forum.

Depends if you want a minimalist/raw car or one with more features/add ons. Now NB stuff is 10 years newer and updated designs but can be swapped to the earlier cars in most cases.

Canadian 1.6 chassis cars are desirable up here because they are non-airbag chassis cars.

Also 90-95 (depending where you live) have a different emissions test. Up here we cant run standalones on 96+ cars so you have to factor that into your plan. I'm assuming some states have similar emissions.

NB2 prices are the same (or sometimes less) than ratted Dr1fT0R NA miatas. NB's are not cool yet.

Get an NB and make sure it's VVT.

2001-2002 NB2 is the correct answer, preferably pre-equipped with a 6-speed and Sport brakes

90-93 will get your sister pregnant and then skip town
94-97 have worse front suspension, worse interior, worse aero, worse brakes, no 6sp option, crappy cylinder head with no VVT
99-00 have a lack of VVT, crappy headlights, Satan's center console
01-02 are God's Miatas
03-05 have weaker T-F clutch LSDs

Why specifically 01-02?
1.8 vs sport brakes, or more so torsen vs tofu diff for the LS/SE versions? I think the LS/SE had sport brakes as well.

At what point did the US medical education system remove the requirement that doctoral candidates be able to read?

:laugh:

NB2

pop up lights are stupid. unless you enjoy not being able to see at night.

nevermind the other 200 reasons an NB is better

I have a 92. I’ve spent two years turning it into an NB2, part by part. I’m not done yet.

On the other hand, here in GA I don’t have to take all my turbo shit out every two years to pass emissions because it’s over 25 years old. Rwyatt’s build thread makes me very happy about that.

well I do plan on doing a turbo
a mad dog roll bar (for safety). idk the list could be small but turn into a never ending slew of things to do with the car
right now I'm working with 6 -8k looking for a car whether it be NA or NB.
as for what I want car to do? kick some ass on the road ( the car passion channels ability to walk mustangs is low key my goal) and maybe autoX. I am not entirely sure but I for sure would love to handle the suspension and brake before I go full on turbo.

I'm just in it for the general info which you guys gave me a lot of good stuff to work with.

I'm just torn. I might start NA? then go NB? I love the looks and style and charm of the NA but the nb is just statistically better. I wish there was a middle ground.

Walk mustangs?

Like stock v6 grocery getter mustangs? Cause a boosted coyote would take a heaping dump on 99% of the turbo miata's out there.. Including his, even at 400whp

....oh and keep up in the corners too ;)

But by all means, keep dreaming

Where are you located? I may have exactly what you want.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...97d3cfdccb.jpg

Sometimes it's hard to hear all the words unless you stay veeeery still.

TIL that all 03-05 have TF diffs. I, along with about half the internet, it seems, thought that it was just 03.

Downsides to 01-02: Plagued with VVT issues, heavy, the projector headlights actually suck really bad, especially compared to a $200 retrofit in an NB1. Also: Gurl u faaatttttt.


Anyways, i suggest an S2000.

define: vvt issues

There's a TSB for the early VVT cars that to some effect says "CEL on for VVT something or other, we don't know how to fix it, throw a ton of parts at it."

Likely not something that matters with a non-standard ECU, but i've seen it on a couple cars now. Doesn't seem to run any different, you just get a CEL for something related to VVT, dont' remember the actual code. Been 2 years since i've dealt with the last one.

Mine had one. It was IIRC due to bad wiring for the vvt solenoid from the ecu.

To say "plagued" is a gross (pun :D) exaggeration. We're talking maybe a few dozen out of hundreds of thousands

That's also a gross exaggeration. :lol: OEMs don't issue TSBs for "a few dozen."

We'll meet in the middle at "some." <3

Oh no when I said dozen I meant "reported on tha interwebz", shoulda been more clear. It's entirely possible the issue is much greater, but I haven't seen it be that bad, and when I was researching it when mine had it, I found very little info and very few people complaining about it.

Will trade EFR NA for stock 01-02 miata

Fiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii iiiiiiine have a kitty.


But, you guys can pry my beloved NB1s out of my cold, lifeless, grubby, dickbeaters.

This is effectively what I've done as well. Had I known ahead of time what direction my car would take, I would have gone with the NB2 from the start.

i actually live in jersey man!

Where in NJ are you? Plenty of Miatas around to try out to see which you like best. There's a NJ Miata Facebook group. Are you in it? Just whatever you do, avoid buying a rusty one. I cannot stress this enough.

I own a 91 na,I have changed out everything.It has been an 11 year process. Have you got that much time,and a ton of money? If so, go for it,if not listen to Sav! Only advantages are weight,and Va. has antique plates at 25 years.

NB1 + HID headlight conversion + NB2 Console is good option.
Not sure value of VVT on stock rod build

I owned all 3 generations and hands down my 02 nb2 is by far the best.

94 NA: pop up headlights, and older styling wasn't to my liking. Plus needs fender roll for 225 tires.

99 nb1 sport: good platform, chassy more flexible than nb2 and worse headlights.

02 nb2: my current and favorite miata. Vvt adds a nice torque boost, factory under bracing stiffens up the car nicely, good headlights and a bit nicer styling vs nb1.

in a perfect world I will have a red msm with a built Vvt swap and ms3. Basically all my mods in a red msm frame.

Too bad you are all the way across the country. I have an NA that is ready for a turbo kit, or making reasonable NA power.

NA vs NB miata pt2
 

ALRIGHT. I'm back again and I'm sorry for asking a million questions but you guys always have good information to give me. regarding my last threads I am totally on board with buying a miata and going turbo. I currently want an NB with a 6 speed but I'm just not the difference is between a 5 speed and a 6 speed is and that is what is prohibiting me from narrowing down a goal/purchase on craigslist. Just to keep this short and simple I have two questions.

1) if I was to turbo a miata would I have better success using a 6 speed more expensive NB, or will a cheaper NA be better with a 5 speed?

2) if anyone in the tri state area is selling an NB for roughly 7k you should totally let me know.

thanks guys!

deleted your new thread and move the post here.

you can just keep all your dumb questions in here from now on, so we don't trash up the forum with them

or just learn to read and then go read the simplest easiest information there is to know about these cars. we don't coddle the lazy and ignorant

it makes no difference turboing a 5spd or 6spd. It's just the 6spd is stronger. 5spd blows at 250hp. 6spd can hold 300-350.

average Turbo build makes about 220-250hp. So a 5spd should be fine if you don't thrash on it. I'm at 250hp or so on my 5spd nb2 and haven't broken it yet. I do dial down the boost to 210hp or 11psi for track and autox.

for $7k you can buy a nicely setup Turbo car, na, nb or nb2. Just wait for a good one to show up here or craigslist.

just make sure it's setup with decent parts. Megasquirt, good manifold, turbo etc... none of that ebay turbo without stand alone ecu nonsense.

So lemme ask a question here. Do the 300 hp turbos blow up 5-speeds because the driver is slamming the pedal to the metal and bouncing off the revlimiter? That is, if the driver applies power reasonably and stays out of the red zone, can s/he reasonably expect a 5-speed to last?

oh boy, bouncing of the rev limiter has nothing to do with blowing up transmissions. The gears inside can't handle the power and break.

like I said. For a turbo noob, you will NOT be making 300+ hp. It takes work to get to 300hp. Built engine, big turbo, good tuning skills, etc...

you will most likely end up with 220hp on a nice and reliable stock motor turbo setup, so you can go with a 5spd car no problem.

breaking 300hp is thousands of dollars in cost and skills over a nice 220hp setup. 90% of turbo miatas don't reach 300hp. Me included. I wrung my 2560 for all it could put out at 18psi and made 265hp.

don't focus on the numbers, 220hp in a miata is hella fun, it's double the stock hp.

Uhhh... Someone take this guy up on that plz?

I have an nb1 with stock bracing and DIY billies. I recently drove a stock NB2. It felt way stiffer and the steering was 'tighter' too. Kinda threw me a bit tbh. I didn't expect that much of a difference.

NB1 vs NB2 stiffness is very noticeable, my nb1 sport with bc racing coilovers rode well and comfortable, but you could feel the texture of the road with very small shakes in the car, its hard to describe, but you could feel the road surface imperfections in the car.
Now my nb2 with the same exact coilovers it glides on the road, no longer i feel the texture of the pavement, and the steering is tighter as well.

Do you know if the PS pump or steering ratio or something was different? I doubt that I'm going to swap over to an NB2 chassis, but I definitely wouldn't mind having that feel. I do have some plans to add some stuff to stiffen up the chassis a bit.

Get someone to count the number of steering wheel revolutions lock to lock (with no wheels mounted) if you want an easy way to tell if the ratios are different.

I'm new here and I'm simply just trying to learn and I have no idea how forums work. instead of being rude you could just show me how all of this works and how to go about it properly so I don't "trash up" your forum.

hey thanks for the good info man it helps a lot. I thought it was different between the gear boxes but I suppose not.

This should clear up any confusion:

I'm going real easy on you since it seems like you legitimately don't know how to internet forum. Welcome to the 21st century.

Please don't take this as an opportunity to be an entitled little crybaby princess. We're not gonna spoon feed you like you want, because that's the desire of every other special cupcake that comes in here clueless and thinking the world revolves around them and we're all here to hold their hand.

Do some reading, this place is jam-packed with information that will answer 99.99% of all of your questions, and then once you're caught up to at least basic knowledge/understanding, we can have an intelligent conversation and help you with your remaining questions :)

And try not to get bothered by us treating you like the fresh meat in prison, lol.

From here: Miata Suspension Interchange

You've got the number of turns backwards, power racks have less turns to match their lower ratio.

I could be a bit more informed I understand but I'm not being a cry baby little princess nor do I want to be spoonfed. this is a place that holds valuable information and I just wanna be informed because I like learning. I'm sorry man but you were just a bit rude.

He was very rude, and on purpose....... It's the method in which the forum is kept clean.

The reason for this is a lot of forums get stuck in a loop of continuously regurgitating the basics to the new guy and encouraging new posts for every little question just to be social. The problem with this is the forum never matures or moves forward, good info gets buried in "what xyz should I get" questions. This place is special in that the requirement is for the new guy to get up to speed quietly without clogging up the forum with basic questions and then join the conversation once they are knowledgeable. This gets taken as far as a sport to roast the new guy, it's harsh but a necessity in today's entitled society.

Damn internet....

Better?

Perfect!