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The steering still felt very different to me between my NB1 and his NB2 and his had way more miles.
Interesting to know that they're the same! |
Originally Posted by Bronson M
(Post 1465214)
He was very rude, and on purpose....... It's the method in which the forum is kept clean.
The reason for this is a lot of forums get stuck in a loop of continuously regurgitating the basics to the new guy and encouraging new posts for every little question just to be social. The problem with this is the forum never matures or moves forward, good info gets buried in "what xyz should I get" questions. This place is special in that the requirement is for the new guy to get up to speed quietly without clogging up the forum with basic questions and then join the conversation once they are knowledgeable. This gets taken as far as a sport to roast the new guy, it's harsh but a necessity in today's entitled society. |
Originally Posted by ridethecliche
(Post 1465218)
The steering still felt very different to me between my NB1 and his NB2 and his had way more miles.
Interesting to know that they're the same! |
Originally Posted by borka
(Post 1465070)
oh boy, bouncing of the rev limiter has nothing to do with blowing up transmissions. The gears inside can't handle the power and break.
like I said. For a turbo noob, you will NOT be making 300+ hp. It takes work to get to 300hp. Built engine, big turbo, good tuning skills, etc... you will most likely end up with 220hp on a nice and reliable stock motor turbo setup, so you can go with a 5spd car no problem. breaking 300hp is thousands of dollars in cost and skills over a nice 220hp setup. 90% of turbo miatas don't reach 300hp. Me included. I wrung my 2560 for all it could put out at 18psi and made 265hp. don't focus on the numbers, 220hp in a miata is hella fun, it's double the stock hp. |
Originally Posted by huesmann
(Post 1465916)
So, what you're saying is, if you have 300+hp and you limit your engine to 2000 rpm, you will still be breaking 5-speeds?
Is a 300hp Miata motor making 300hp at 2000rpm? |
trololololo
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Originally Posted by huesmann
(Post 1465916)
So, what you're saying is, if you have 300+hp and you limit your engine to 2000 rpm, you will still be breaking 5-speeds?
To reiterate my point, if you lower the rev limit to 5k, you will still be breaking 5 spds. Peak torque usually arrives well below 5k and that is what kills gears, not the 7k revs. 4 years on this forum and still knows nothing. Shame. |
If you make 300hp at 2000rpm you are making over 500 ft. lbs of torque. See also diesel.
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Found an NA
Alright sorry I’ve been gone for a while. Long story short I got kicked out and I need a reliable ride to work. i found an 95 m edition NA with 240k miles for about 2500 with everything working well. It’s got a 1.8L with a Torsen DIF. The dealer did the brake fluid, changed the pads, along with the transmition fluid. It’ll need an oil change in another 2 months. No rust except for the common areas. No accidents. Should I go for it and if I do how reliable will it be? edit: sorry for any typos or long information. I’m away from my pc. |
That's a lot of miles and "rust in the common areas" is still rust and is a BIG problem. If you just need a reliable ride to work because you got kicked out, get a Camry and save for a better Miata. Or buy the clapped out rust bucket and beat it til it dies and THEN get a good Miata. By then you will have learned what you want. Paul |
buy a project car for a daily driver.
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I was thinking what Hellings is saying. I bought a used Altima for 1500 bucks that has cold air and drives nicely and is far more practical as a single car than a Miata. You are likely not follow this advice because you are young.
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2002 Camry's are pretty cheap right now. Very practical.
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Our biggest problem is that we assume all/most members will be smart and make good choices. This is simply not the case.
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https://worcester.craigslist.org/cto...502755529.html
A turbo, lift kit, manual, awd, crv would be lots of fun. If it has any rust just run away. Looking at your local craigslist it looks like 90% of the cars are rust buckets. I would take $500 of your money and travel way south for the weekend and get a rust free car. |
Gets kicked out (of his parents' house, I presume), has finances tight enough that a $2,500 car is a reach but needs a reliable car to get to work, still feels like he's entitled to a project car...
Life's gonna be tough, kid. |
I mean I checked the undercarriage of the car and no rust, the car seems to have been taken care of as all the maintenance was done. All the fluids and breaks, new clutch, new gasket seal and brakes. Only issue is a small rip in the soft top. In my area I haven’t found anything I necessarily trust and it seems anything like a civic which is bullet proof is about 3k for one that hasn’t been in an accident or has problems. side note: won’t be a project car until my financials are 100% secure. I don’t plan on major work since normal TLC and maintenance was done. I don’t need much space right now because I don’t have much lmao. If anything were to happen I make decent money and I’ve got money put away for my insurance and stuff. I just would like input to know if I should go for it. |
Originally Posted by Phalanx8
(Post 1467934)
I mean I checked the undercarriage of the car and no rust, the car seems to have been taken care of as all the maintenance was done. All the fluids and breaks, new clutch, new gasket seal and brakes. Only issue is a small rip in the soft top. In my area I haven’t found anything I necessarily trust and it seems anything like a civic which is bullet proof is about 3k for one that hasn’t been in an accident or has problems. side note: won’t be a project car until my financials are 100% secure. I don’t plan on major work since normal TLC and maintenance was done. I don’t need much space right now because I don’t have much lmao. If anything were to happen I make decent money and I’ve got money put away for my insurance and stuff. I just would like input to know if I should go for it. :noob::eggplant: |
Thanks for the help. Anyone that hasn’t anything constructive to say let me know. |
high mile rusty northern car, for not so cheap price. sure, go for it.
fyi, miata engines are reliable, but theyre no hondas, from my experience they die right around the miles your potential car has. i know plenty also dont, but from what i've seen, the chances get higher as you approach 250ish K and beyond. maintenance, and oil changes can only do so much... i personally would not own a miata as my only car, too small and not practical, and good luck driving it in the winter blizzards. |
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