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Are there any cheaper coolant reroute setups for the NB1? I've found some for the NB2, but nothing for the NB1. Is there something I'm missing in terms of what someone here offers?
The coolant reroutes should be roughly the same 90-05. The problem that sometimes comes up with NB reroutes, is that the temp sensor does not have a ground wire. It is supposed to ground straight to the motor. When you add in the standard spacer, you can have gaskets and gasket maker in the way and cause grounding issues. The easy fix is running a wire from the space to the head.
I'll look up the wiring you suggest. Wiring isn't my strong suit at all, so I'll see if I can show a diagram or something to a friend to get a better handle on it. Thanks for your help shuiend, you've been awesome.
Im not sure on that one. I don't see a spacer for the rear of the head. The wiring isn't something that is in any diagram. You would figure out how to attach a wire to the spacer, then bolt it to a bolt on the head or someplace on the engine. Simply to make sure the spacer is ground to the block, so that the temp sensor can read correctly.
Yeah I'll have to run this by my mechanic friends. I'm getting into all of this because I've been hanging out with a bunch of Subaru mechanics on the weekends and helping with builds and learning.
This is my way of getting some skin in the game. I'm excited, but know that there's a lot I don't know but am lucky to have their help and help here as well.
I've spent the last week reading through a few people's builds to see what went into it.
For something like this, I'm afraid I'm over my head. I need to look at some schematics for what folks have done in the nb1. Or just do this at a later date when I know more since this is going to be a pretty low boost so anyway.
No you don't want the miatamecca reroute. That's the half assed way; I think they call it the "racer reroute".
Id personally recommended the M-Tuned and then just ground the sensor properly. Ive seen people do things as janky as clamping a wire to the sensor body with a hose clamp, and it works. You could also just thread a ring terminal up the threads as far as it will go, may need to drill out to custom size.
You could also do a hybrid m-tuned/begi reroute(basically m tuned but with begi spacer and no remote stat) and cobble it together yourself like I did.
I guess now is a good time to tell folks that I'm likely going to buy @thirdgen turbo setup as he does his K-swap.
Is this about the time I start a build thread? Also, is a fab9 stage 2 intercooler overkill for a sub 250hp build? Too far below the efficiency zone? One just popped up for sale so looking at it.
Originally Posted by hi_im_sean
Do it, do it NOW!!!!
I need to read up on how much doing it'll take. I mean I already have a 99-00 head and need to figure out the wiring etc. Then again, selling my freaking BP5A cam will probably pay for the head so.....**** it. Then again, I'm down to learn and do all these things. The car is going to be down for most of winter and I have a huge exam at the end of April, so I'm okay with building till mid march-end april, but I'm also new to a lot of this and I'm realizing how easy it is to get completely in over your head. I have some help locally, but most of this is going to be done by me. I don't want to end up having to sell everything because I'm in too deep and have no in person help.
If anyone is interested in the head and is local (New England) let me know and I can pass the info forward. Maybe it's better to just do something like this as a 'next step' in the future instead of trying to do it all at once.
Edit: Wait how the eff do you tag someone in a post?
Edit 2: Thanks Sean... maybe? Heh, extra 's' in the first thing but I figured it out!
Last edited by ridethecliche; 11-18-2016 at 07:24 PM.
Just trying to weigh the benefit relative to the NB1 head. If I had a NA8, the choice would be pretty clear. I know it's better, but I haven't seen any good back to back's with dyno's. I've searched a bunch.
Theres multiply dyno plots of each around, you just have to look. In a FI motor, the advantage is more with spool than outright low-mid power, although I suppose they are interrelated.
What's the verdict on say... buying a secondhand name brand radiator (pwr) and intercooler (fab9) vs new ebay stuffs if the price is the same? Also, would you flow test a set of injectors if you're buying them new from rock auto or another retailer?
I also have a box of goodies that I need to take pictures of and add to this thread.
Side note: I passed on that head in the last picture. The innards look fine, but I don't want to make this more complicated than it has to be. Seller said it would probably need valves etc, but he was a mechanic that insisted on wanting to do things right. No compression numbers, but said it came off a running car, not sure when the car was run last based on the condition. It's at main street auto in Clinton MA if anyone else wants to grab it.
Last edited by ridethecliche; 11-22-2016 at 02:17 PM.
Id buy the radiator new. I don't like used radiators, you don't know whats inside, if they used tap water, or had bad grounds or something causing electrolysis.
Used intercoolers all day long, assuming there's little to no fin/rock/debris damage.
Side note: That VVT head is still available. It just looks like it's been sitting outside in time out for two years. Innards look nice. So torn...From everything I've seen, VVT would really help make the car more lively overall.
11-14-2016, 10:41 AM
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