NB1: Morimoto HID or NB2 Projectors?
 

Starting with NB1, there seems to be (2) typical upgrades to headlights:

1) The Morimoto HID install from TheRetrofitSource. This would give maximum lighting, and would cost about $230 if purchased on Black Friday.

2) Get NB2 headlights with or without the NB2 bumper cover. Not sure of Junk Yard cost, but assume about $60, and a harness upgrade.

Pros and Cons of each?

If you were to quantify the additional improvement in nighttime vision between 1 and 2, what would be the ratio? e.g. HID is 1.5 X better lighting than NB2 with typical Halogen bulbs.

You won't find NB2 headlights for $60. Expect to pay at least $250 for a used pair in good condition without any broken mounting tabs. It's also very difficult to find a used front bumper cover in the same color as your car, so keep that in mind.

I have the NB2 headlights and front bumper, along with Retrofit Source HIDs. It was expensive, but probably my favorite thing I've done to my car. I really preferred the look of the NB2. NB2 lights with regular halogens were a big improvement over the NB1 lights, but still underwhelming. I didn't try HIR. Although the NB2 projectors are designed for halogens, the beam pattern and cut off with HIDs is very nice. You would get an even better pattern with a full retrofit that included new projectors.

I sold an NB2 light pretty cheaply recently. I guess I could've pulled more if I had a pair. Sold it on ebay, I'll probably end up with $60 after fees and all.

Not likely to find one in a junkyard, you'd need to find someone parting out a car to get it all for a reasonable price. The NB2 lights with the NB1 bumper looks like shit, so do it all.

The NB1 headlights are pretty easy to bake apart. I have the Mini H1 and don't think the cut-off and lighting quality is on par with what aftermarket projectors should be. This is paired with Morimoto ballasts and the newest H1 XB35 bulbs. I'm not sure which of the other higher quality projectors fit in NB1 headlights.

I do think I'll go with the the v7.0 H1's, based on ease of build and bang for buck.

QUESTION: 3800 or 4500 Kelvin bulbs?

4500 is my preference. More white than yellow.
3800 will have more yellow than white

This is something I've been meaning to look into more and I've read about it peripherally.

What I've seen is that the NB2 headlights, while producing better light than the NB1 lights are still not as good as a true retrofit on the NB1 lights and come with the added issue of having to either rework the nb1 bumper or switch to an NB2 bumper and lights. Cost of the latter are probably in the 400-500 range without the cost of doing the retrofit.

I have an nb1 with fogs that currently don't work. I wonder how much a fog upgrade would run and how much light that would add as well for the times when I'd need it. If a retrofit is the best option, then I'm probably just going to end up going through with it because there's no reason to settle for marginally better bulbs in the NB1 setup when the retrofit can actually bring the car into modern times. That plus spraying the housing black definitely makes the car headlights look better. Still not as good as the nb2, but the cost for doing the full face swap and tail swap is a bit much... (probably 500ish if you can sell your stock stuff).

I would personally go with the Mini D2S 4.0 over the Mini H1 7.0. The D2S seems to have a better light pattern and more "usable light". It also gives you the option of using OEM HID bulbs instead of re-based H1 bulbs. Have a look at this video and compare for yourself;
Install on both of these projectors would be quite similar in difficulty, so why not have the better / more OEM option. As for bulb temp, I would go with 4500 over 3800. Unless you drive a ton in heavy fog / rain / snow, in which case, the lower temp bulb would have a slight edge at the cost of out and out brightness.

I recently put a 4500K 55w Morimoto HID kit in my NB2 lights. The cutoff is clean, but there is a bit of glare that seems to come from the chrome trim around the projector. I plan on taking them apart and painting the low beam section flat black to help with that.

I'm also debating buying new projectors and bulbs to get the Bixenon functionality. My high beams aren't that impressive in comparison to the low beams. I'd switch to a lower temp color as well - even at 55W, 4500K is more blue than I would like, but that was as low as I could go with a drop in kit.


Unless you really prefer the NB2 front end enough to justify painting a bumper and paying for NB2 lights, I'd retrofit the lights you've already got.

Thanks for the data point!

I'm somewhat concerned that the directly connected ignighters would not physically fit in the space allowed in the NB1. Perhaps if they can be installed upside down, they might fit.

Fair point. On mine, I am able to connect them at any 90* position, I can't vouch for all ballasts though. My projectors (FX-R 3.0) are also set in the housing so the connector sits just behind the rear housing. I simply put a hole in the rubber boot for the connector to fit onto the bulb. With the Mini D2S, it would be installed in the H4 base / reflector housing, and may sit further into the headlight housing, needing some trimming of the back of the housing for the connector to fit. Here's a look at the back of my lights. (Please ignore the mess that is undercoating, stupid winter)
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6f0c83241c.jpg

I'd venture to say the new MH1 and MD2S projectors are on par or exceed the output of the NB2 factory projectors. TRS's stuff has come a long way through the years, I've been doing retrofits since the first MH1 came out from them. I just picked up an NB1 and plan on doing a retrofit on it with the MD2S V4.0 pending I can seal the rear of the housing properly with the bulkier connectors.

When will you know if the MD2S V4.0 will fit?

I've owned the car for less than a week. Haven't even had the time to pull the headlight to take measurements from yet. Hoping to know by this weekend because I'd like to take advantage of Black Friday sales coming up

My plan as well.

What measurements do you need? I may be able to grab some for you guys.

At what price is the nb2 swap worth it? I can get a bumper and both lights for 400, but I'll need to repaint the bumper and get connectors etc. Guessing I should concentrate on go fast parts for now...

As a side note: To a retrofit/headlight noob like myself, are there any other options for bulbs or such that would help get better light output without hitting this price tag?

Where are you all seeing the lower black Friday price?

Thanks.

There are higher wattage H4 bulbs available on the interwebz, but they don't last nearly as long, and can damage the reflector or the lens if they get too hot, or could even potentially burn up the wiring for the headlights or the controller. Plus these don't address the terrible optics of the NB1 lights, just kind of turn everything up to 11.

As for the Black Friday sale, we're referring to https://www.theretrofitsource.com/ They usually have some pretty stinkin' deals for Black Friday / Cyber Monday.

I would definitely recommend doing it once and doing it right with a full retro. Once you have good lights, you'll wonder how you lived with the candles you call headlights now!

I have not seen TRS sale yet, but they do every year.

I have pretty much decided to try the D2S. If I have to nudge the fenders a bit to fit the exciter, I will.

I think i decided the opposite. I think I'll be using the MH1. My reasoning is simple, the MH1 fitment will be much more basic as there should not be any cutting. the performance difference between the MH1 and MD2S is so minor I really dont see the benefit for the extra work in this case. Both are going to make the OEM halogen look like a candle

Just for a nice reference point of what I'm referring to.. Here is an FXR 3.0 55W 5000K build I did on a Chevy Cobalt SS/TC. The drivers side headlight is retrofitted, while the passenger side is OEM halogen for comparison. You cant really go wrong with either on a miata so i'm choosing the easier one
Attachment 182643

I'm genuinely curious to see if there is any extra work / trimming needed for the the MD2S vs the MH1. I do agree that either of these options will be far better then the stock halogens, but I'm a bit biased towards the D2S because of my FX-R retro.

That on the other hand is the farthest thing from PnP, and if I were going to do it again from scratch and needed to buy everything new, I would be going for the MD2S hands down.

The sale has begun at TRS.

Black Friday

So what are you lot going with?

I ordered the D2S v4.0 with bullet shroud, 35W, 4500K, H4 Motocontrol harness.
This they call a Stage III kit. Will take the chance on fit because, why not.

What did it run as part of the sale if you don't mind my asking?

$240 even, delivered.

MH1 would be $216

Ahh, so the D2S is a 'better' light for you, but you're going to have to play with the fitment, while the MH1 is known to fit, right?

216 to my door is pretty hard to argue with... I'm genuinely curious how much better things would be with just better bulbs (osram nightbreakers?) and polished/clear coated headlights. I might give this a go right now and come back to the MH1's this time next year if it's still abysmal.

I know that moving to the nightbreakers on my motorcycle made a pretty big difference in the past, but folks used to use a relay for the headlight since the voltage used to drop. Not sure this is an issue in the miata as it was on the bike.

The MH1 will give you 90% of what the MD2S will. There "may" be fitment issues with the MD2S, but we won't know until Makinson gets his and actually try's it. The real reason to go for the MD2S is the ability to run OEM bulbs instead or re-based ones for the MH1 (for me anyways). If your weary of fitment issues. I would say get the MH1 and install them, I'm sure you won't be disappointed.

PEER PRESSURE! DOOOO EEET! :yippee:

Also, I have a pair of these 1157 switchbacks for my parking / signals. If you remove the orange bulb cover when you have the lights apart, it lets you have white running lights that switch to amber signals. I love mine, it's an option: https://www.theretrofitsource.com/cl...to-xb-led.html

So do they burn white when on solid, but go yellow when flashing?

Haha, peer pressure is all well and good, but I think I'm going to hold off for the year. Just ordered Osram's for the stock setup and I'll see how that goes. I'm in the process of turbo'ing the car for my first build and I have a feeling that issues that require $$$ are going to pop up as they are often wont to do when you least want them to!

Yes, although they are very much orange when flashing, not yellow.

I ordered the Morimoto MH1 kit, 35W ballasts, 5500K bulbs, Iris shrouds, switchback halos, and 1157 switchback turn signals to match. Planning on painting everything black and doing a few mods to the projector/halo itself. Odds are I will have to trim the shroud to fit, but I will find out when i get everything torn apart

I know NB2 lights fit in the NB1 but need a bit of trimming and might leave a bit of a gap. Has anyone tried just buying aftermarket NB2 lights and modifying them to fit?

Anybody get their retro's done yet? Inquiring minds must know :naughty:

Working on it, but it's a backburner project. https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...dlights-92084/

Based on what I've found in my dissection, I'm currently leaning to adding a bixenon projector in the high beam location and going back to halogens in the stock low beam because:

1. It's definitely easier than tearing up the stock low beam and replacing it with a bixenon.
2. It keeps my low beam setup completely, unquestionably stock and legal. I hate police attention.
3. Quad projectors, while not my thing, will definitely bring all the boys to the yard.

See build thread in sig. Mine are done

Too busy driving car, tuning EBC and Limp Mode. Soon I will be to the place of pulling the bumper, and working on lights and radiator ducting. Right now, though, HID's are sitting in the basement.

Update:

As said, I went with the D2S. I got a Milwaukee version of a drimmel tool and used a cut-off wheel and burr to cut into the bottom surface of the main reflectors, and also the shrouds. I did not take enough time with the shrouds and so some of the gap is reflected by the main reflector. One of those things you can notice close up, but not at 4 feet.

So, indeed, the MH1 would have been a little easier.

The ballasts do go any 90 degrees, so that was no problem. I oriented them horizontally with each cord pointing the the center of the car.

I haven't fired them up yet.

Opening and Closing the lens to housing was easy-peasy.

I have a little more polishing to do on the lenses and then I'm going with a Lamin-x film covering. I bought directly from Lamin-x, when they offered 40% discount, but Moss has them at a reasonable price. I hope they serve better than the poly-urethane did.

Did you need resistors for these?

I had issues with my NB1, but corrected it with a new relay....... Never liked the idea of resistors.

Never bothered to post this here: https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=638077

Agreed. By 'relay' do you mean 'flasher'? And do you have a P/N of one that works?

I've done a modified/piecemeal H1 setup on the purple car. Came out great. I used Mori H1 mini projectors, their relay harness thing, some $10 XB 3000k bulbs (LMP style, y0) on closeout from TRS, and some $50 ebay ballasts. I think i spent about $180 on the whole thing and it works great.

Well enough that with their July 4th sale i bought another set for the wife's new street NB1, i just did the full TRS kit this time around.

I have a big boy 55w D2S kit sitting here to do on the 98 Montero as well.

As for the flasher, i haven't tested it yet, but i bought a $1.27 "LED flasher" from chinabay that's sitting on my desk. I'll try to test it this week and report back. Tag me if you don't hear from me.

Yes I mean flasher, that thread I linked has a link to the flasher I started with and modified. No off the shelf parts for NB1 but think there was a part number or link posted in that thread for one that works for NB2.

I have the 1157 switchbacks from TRS in my NB1. I just replaced the flasher relay with an LED compatible flasher (Part Number: CF13JL‑02). It was not 100% plug and play. the spacing of the connectors wasn't identical to the OEM mazda plug, so I simply de-pinned the socket and manually installed the 3 connections (putting heat shrink over them to isolate them. Zero issues with it. Works great. Way cleaner than resistors.

Any chance you have pics of what those lights look like? Trying to decide if i want them for my NB1s. I suppose for the money, it'd be worth buying to find out, but i'd rather see an example first. :)

They are on close out at TRS, so I got 2 sets delivered for $13. Figures I'd just try them for that.

EDIT: Wrong bulbs. I'm passing on Switchbacks for now.

heres a pic of them off.. not the greatest pic i know, but it's hard to even make out a bulb behind the diffused lens
Attachment 180676

here they are on with switchback halos
Attachment 180677

Wait 13 bucks for the projectors!?

I only see the acme ones on closeout and those are D1S/D3S. I see dummy H1 projectors... But what does dummy imply here? That they'd be perfect for me?

Ok thanks!

So when you have your turn signal on, they switch to flashing amber, then when off, back to the solid white?

Bruh read bruh.

Foiled again...

Just to make sure we're on the same page... we're currently on a side conversation about 1157 switchback led turn signals.

The easy NB1 projector kit is the following:

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/co...C50560%2C47390

Select desired shrouds, desired bulb temp, and the H4/9003 bi-xenon control harness.

Enjoy.

If I may threadjack very slightly...

In the past, the question "are these aftermarket LED headlight bulbs any good?" has been easily answered: No.

I note that TRS is now selling a few that, judging solely by the specs, would seem to be worth looking into: https://www.theretrofitsource.com/hi...o-2stroke.html

Anyone here ever seriously look into something like this?

Yes, switchbacks function by being white during running light operation then blink orange when turn signals are activated.

LED bulbs still haven't caught up to HID's in terms of output (beam distance and width). No warm-up time for your bulb is a benefit, but I'd still go HID. The LED tech will catch up eventually, but its not here yet. Just my .02

Got my switchbacks. They don't seem to work. If my lights are ON, they're on all the time and don't respond to signals. If lights are OFF, they respond to signals only. They ARE really bright, but don't work properly.

Any ideas?

Are you running either an LED flasher relay (no-load flasher) or resistors? If your running resistors, how do you have them wired?

I'm not yet, i wanted to see what they were going to look like before i dealt with that. Shouldn't the resistors just make them flash normal speed instead of fast? The "not flashing" thing i can either figure out or not, but these do not appear to be white/amber switchbacks.

I currently have LEDs in that location already, i just leave the hyperflash because it makes the car more visible.