I'm not sure on that one. The switchbacks I have on my car are the 1157 XB Switchbacks with resistors wired inline on the signal wire. I didn't try them without the resistors, so I can't say for sure if that would make a difference.

Then the lights are off and you turn on the signals, does it flash white or amber?

I've never heard of an issue like that before... have you tried flipping the bulbs around 180 degrees for the hell of it?

I thought about that, since i've had some issues with that when i converted most of my Montero interior bulbs to LED.

But these appear to only be able to be installed one way. The "keyed" nubs on the side of the bulb are at different heights.

I'll try another pair and see what happens. I bought 4 pairs.

See post 49. I hope I did not lead you astray. What I thought were switchbacks, because they came up when I searched for "switchback" on TRS website, were in fact only an older version of a white, LED replacement bulb.

As far as I can tell, switchbacks are around $40 a pair.

Hrm ok. No worries. They're really nice ambers, so if i can get them to work the way they're supposed to otherwise, i'm not mad for the price. :)

Got the job done. D2S. Was not bad at all. I dd over-cut the shrouds a bit, so that up close you see a little black reflected out, but from 3 feet, it is not noticeable. Light is amazing.

I also removed the amber cylinders and used chrome covered, amber bulbs. So when they are off, there is no yellow showing at all.


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...83eccf63e6.jpg



With HID's in, lenses polished and covered with Lamin-X film. Interested to see how the film performs.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0b0a70915c.jpg

Shows ballast mounted to sheetmetal with (3) self-drilling screws, as well as the relay. Other side is similar.

This reminds me.. I need to work on a way to better tuck the relay harness and ballasts on my setup.. The wires everywhere bother me like hell...

Question for others that have done FRS Retrofit:

Coincidentally, my brights on annuciator no longer works. Looking at the wiring diagram for the ‘99, it appears that there is 12V GROUND on both sides of the bulb when no headlight low filament is in the circuit.

Others seen this?
Has anyone solved it?

Any idea if it's different between 99 and 00? My high beam indicator still works on my 2000 with essentially the same setup as you, but H1 instead of D2S.

I always go on the assumption no difference between the two.

I will plug in the halogens and see if the light comes back. It will be late Thursday.

my 99 high beam signal doesnt work. For some reason I presumed it was the bulb in the dash being burnt out. Never bothered me enough to look into as its fairly obvious the difference in high and low when driving. Time to dig up the wiring diagram and put it on the "winter projects" list.

edit: Here is the wiring to a 1999... its too late for me to be thinking on why the indicator wont work.. will read comments tomorrow
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2bf38c6434.jpg

A 2000 miata diagram looks similar at glance

I have the Morimoto setup from TRS, the high beam indicator for sure doesn't work. I always assumed I had done something wrong with the install. Glad to know it's not just me, at least ;p

I unplugged the controller and put in (1) halogen bulb. High beam indicator returned to working. I will contact TRS to see if they have a recommendation.

Also, I still don't think my original explanation is correct.

If you look at Padlock's diagram, what is not showing on the Red/Yel is a relay that makes the GRN and the R/Y at the center terminal of each bulb hot (12V) when the switch is set to headlights. If on low, the Red goes through the LO contact and pulls the low beam filaments to ground and so they turn on (+12 at R/Y or GRN, Gnd at R). It also puts both sides of the Indicator at Ground.

When the beam switch either constant at HI, or at FLASH, RED open circuits and WHT is tied to Ground. But the low beam filament backfeeds from the center terminal to put 12V on the open red wire node. This lights the Indicator. Since an incandescent filament has low resistance when not incandescing, the 12V lights the indicator.

I have looked at the Y2000 wiring diagram, and it seems to be the same setup for NON-DRL set-ups. If either year has DRL, then I have no idea how the extra control circuits affect thing.

A quick and dirty would be to introduce a relay. Coil fed with ignition controlled positive and connected to the HIGH terminal of the headlight switch to provide switched ground (may need a diode in here to stop strange headlight behaviour - I have not tested).

Disconnect the indicator light from the headlight, connect it to one side of the relay switched contacts and the other side of the contacts to the same ignition controlled positive.

This will not work with DRL equipped cars because a) the DRL is in the way and b) the cluster circuit is physically different (although it's a simple mod to change it).

So I have not had this issue. I'm guessing it's because of how I have the high beam solenoid wired.

I simply ran the two leads from the solenoid in the projectors to the ground and high beam power on the existing bulb plugs. That way, the car see's power is flowing through the high beam circuit and lights up the indicator in the cluster.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ce1746cc72.jpg

High beam solenoid has power to lower shields and your high beam indicator in the cluster works.

MM, Do you have Daytime Running Lights?

Not any more. It's a Canadian car, so it did have them, but I removed the DRL module after it burnt up by comparing the two wiring diagrams and making a jumper harness to convert my car to US wiring (Just bypassing the DRL module)

You'll want to look at the dash - the difference (other than the obvious kilometer to miles scale) is the high beam trace.

Just to reiterate, my high beam signal works fine on my car... Just putting said info out there for guy's who are having an issue with theirs.

Which shrouds did you go with?

-B