Need help- Salvage Vehicle in Ruckersville, Va (was- say you had $4k...)
#41
Actually, if you look again, my question was: "With the knowledge you have about where you started and what you wound up with, if you had to start again (and with my limited budget) what would you do?"
Nearly every topic is based on having a car and what to do with it. There are very few intelligent discussions on which car to choose, and which upgrade route to go, starting from scratch, while staying within a budget. I've gotten some great feedback from people who contributed knowledge that previously was not available to me, or to other noobs who have the same questions.
Now, to attempt to keep the post somewhat informative, I will entertain you with my logic as to why a special edition color car is not necessarily for me.
As mentioned, the special edition cars are far more rare than the others (I'll just call them 'red') So, first and foremost, limiting myself to special edition cars drastically reduces the pool of cars to work with. Limiting the cars makes it tougher to find an acceptable starting point. However, if I include the red cars too, I have many to choose from in my price bracket.
Furthermore, if someone is under the impression that their car is rare, and they treat it as such, then they will ask far more than what I feel it's worth. Buying said car would pretty much take up my entire budget, and all I'd wind up with is a well-maintained special color car. Obviously not what I'm shooting for.
If someone owns a special edition car and isn't under the impression that their car is rare, then they will treat their car however they would normally treat it, which puts it back into the red car pool.
Therefore, I have a better chance of finding a car that is a good starting point, clean, with relatively low miles, that fits my budget and maybe even leaves room to start modding if I look for plain old Miatas.
#42
Unless an insanely good deal falls in my lap, I'll be doing what I originally thought was the best bet for the long run, which is A. Just wanted other opinions in case I didn't think of an option.
#43
Simmer down there scrappy.
Actually, if you look again, my question was: "With the knowledge you have about where you started and what you wound up with, if you had to start again (and with my limited budget) what would you do?"
Nearly every topic is based on having a car and what to do with it. There are very few intelligent discussions on which car to choose, and which upgrade route to go, starting from scratch, while staying within a budget. I've gotten some great feedback from people who contributed knowledge that previously was not available to me, or to other noobs who have the same questions.
Now, to attempt to keep the post somewhat informative, I will entertain you with my logic as to why a special edition color car is not necessarily for me.
As mentioned, the special edition cars are far more rare than the others (I'll just call them 'red') So, first and foremost, limiting myself to special edition cars drastically reduces the pool of cars to work with. Limiting the cars makes it tougher to find an acceptable starting point. However, if I include the red cars too, I have many to choose from in my price bracket.
Furthermore, if someone is under the impression that their car is rare, and they treat it as such, then they will ask far more than what I feel it's worth. Buying said car would pretty much take up my entire budget, and all I'd wind up with is a well-maintained special color car. Obviously not what I'm shooting for.
If someone owns a special edition car and isn't under the impression that their car is rare, then they will treat their car however they would normally treat it, which puts it back into the red car pool.
Therefore, I have a better chance of finding a car that is a good starting point, clean, with relatively low miles, that fits my budget and maybe even leaves room to start modding if I look for plain old Miatas.
Actually, if you look again, my question was: "With the knowledge you have about where you started and what you wound up with, if you had to start again (and with my limited budget) what would you do?"
Nearly every topic is based on having a car and what to do with it. There are very few intelligent discussions on which car to choose, and which upgrade route to go, starting from scratch, while staying within a budget. I've gotten some great feedback from people who contributed knowledge that previously was not available to me, or to other noobs who have the same questions.
Now, to attempt to keep the post somewhat informative, I will entertain you with my logic as to why a special edition color car is not necessarily for me.
As mentioned, the special edition cars are far more rare than the others (I'll just call them 'red') So, first and foremost, limiting myself to special edition cars drastically reduces the pool of cars to work with. Limiting the cars makes it tougher to find an acceptable starting point. However, if I include the red cars too, I have many to choose from in my price bracket.
Furthermore, if someone is under the impression that their car is rare, and they treat it as such, then they will ask far more than what I feel it's worth. Buying said car would pretty much take up my entire budget, and all I'd wind up with is a well-maintained special color car. Obviously not what I'm shooting for.
If someone owns a special edition car and isn't under the impression that their car is rare, then they will treat their car however they would normally treat it, which puts it back into the red car pool.
Therefore, I have a better chance of finding a car that is a good starting point, clean, with relatively low miles, that fits my budget and maybe even leaves room to start modding if I look for plain old Miatas.
#45
how the **** have you made it to 279 posts without outting yourself as a jizzmopping ------?
You're the moron I loved selling cars to years ago. Just throw down a little downpayment and not think about the monthly. I mean **** dude, everyone has a car payment, what's wrong with dumping $600 out my ******* for the next decade? Besides, there's nothing like modding a car you don't even own!!!
You're the moron I loved selling cars to years ago. Just throw down a little downpayment and not think about the monthly. I mean **** dude, everyone has a car payment, what's wrong with dumping $600 out my ******* for the next decade? Besides, there's nothing like modding a car you don't even own!!!
#46
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**** you dick cheese. He asked for ******* opinions, one option was other, I picked other. Who the **** said anything about not thinking about monthly payments? matter of fact what the **** is you stupid ------ *** talking about? Who the **** payes for a 13K car for a decade, ******* retard.
#48
Stop crapping all over my thread. If you want to go blow him, you go do it somewhere else.
I clearly stated that I had a budget of $4000. If I said $4000 plus $200 per month for the next five years, then your response would have made sense. But, as is, it doesn't apply to this situation.
Since I can't make it clear enough, apparently, I intend to spend up to $4000 for a lil car. Hang on to the Teg until lil car is sorted and running well. Then dump Teg on CL for like $2500, to recoup some/most/all cost of lil car. Then drive lil car for a while, while gathering parts to make lil car stoopid fast. When time to make lil car stoopid fast, I'll then decide between getting a beater, or installing on the sly and keep down time to a minimum.
Capiche?
I clearly stated that I had a budget of $4000. If I said $4000 plus $200 per month for the next five years, then your response would have made sense. But, as is, it doesn't apply to this situation.
Since I can't make it clear enough, apparently, I intend to spend up to $4000 for a lil car. Hang on to the Teg until lil car is sorted and running well. Then dump Teg on CL for like $2500, to recoup some/most/all cost of lil car. Then drive lil car for a while, while gathering parts to make lil car stoopid fast. When time to make lil car stoopid fast, I'll then decide between getting a beater, or installing on the sly and keep down time to a minimum.
Capiche?
#49
Stop crapping all over my thread. If you want to go blow him, you go do it somewhere else.
I clearly stated that I had a budget of $4000. If I said $4000 plus $200 per month for the next five years, then your response would have made sense. But, as is, it doesn't apply to this situation.
Since I can't make it clear enough, apparently, I intend to spend up to $4000 for a lil car. Hang on to the Teg until lil car is sorted and running well. Then dump Teg on CL for like $2500, to recoup some/most/all cost of lil car. Then drive lil car for a while, while gathering parts to make lil car stoopid fast. When time to make lil car stoopid fast, I'll then decide between getting a beater, or installing on the sly and keep down time to a minimum.
Capiche?
I clearly stated that I had a budget of $4000. If I said $4000 plus $200 per month for the next five years, then your response would have made sense. But, as is, it doesn't apply to this situation.
Since I can't make it clear enough, apparently, I intend to spend up to $4000 for a lil car. Hang on to the Teg until lil car is sorted and running well. Then dump Teg on CL for like $2500, to recoup some/most/all cost of lil car. Then drive lil car for a while, while gathering parts to make lil car stoopid fast. When time to make lil car stoopid fast, I'll then decide between getting a beater, or installing on the sly and keep down time to a minimum.
Capiche?
Capiche?
#50
You are acting like this is your first day here. Hustler's not a real person, you are. I can't hold Hustler accountable for the crap he says more than I can hold you accountable for the crap he says.
Just accept that your suggestion to pay $13k plus interest for a 250hp car is totally irrelevant to the budget-minded-topic and move on.
Just accept that your suggestion to pay $13k plus interest for a 250hp car is totally irrelevant to the budget-minded-topic and move on.
#51
You are acting like this is your first day here. Hustler's not a real person, you are. I can't hold Hustler accountable for the crap he says more than I can hold you accountable for the crap he says.
Just accept that your suggestion to pay $13k plus interest for a 250hp car is totally irrelevant to the budget-minded-topic and move on.
Just accept that your suggestion to pay $13k plus interest for a 250hp car is totally irrelevant to the budget-minded-topic and move on.
#52
Here's a good example of a car I won't be buying:
Number one, there's chrome-pep-boys stripping on the doors like a ******* retard.
Number two, I asked this: Dear chaz2001,
Could you at least give us a CLUE about the turbo set up? Like, if you
could write a 500 word essay about your turbo, what would you write?
His response:
I am not going to write a 500 word essay in a response on eBay and I am not
sure what else you want to know. The item description states all the
information. Ask me a specific question and I will respond to that
question.
-chaz2001
I'd like to send a bitch-slap through the email system. WTF, he gives more info about his deer whistles then the turbo.
In case this gets dredged up in a search thirty years from now when someone is searching for ways NOT to place an eBay ad, here's the entire written description:
Vehicle Description
You are bidding on a 1993 Mazda Miata MX5 Convertible with Turbo charged engine
Equipped with factory air conditioning. The car has a luggage rack,
cruise control and AM FM CD Player, which were added after market.
It is a fun car to drive and gets great gas mileage.
The mileage is 91973. The car has been stored under cover and does not have fading from the sun. The body is clean and has not had any repairs.
The tires have lots of mileage left on them.
There is a bra on the front. The convertible top is in excellent condition.
The struts and shocks are new. It has a rebuilt radiator and new hoses, flushed, and put in new coolant.
There are 2 deer whistles on the hood.
Buyer is responsible for shipping.
A $500.00 deposit through PayPal at end of auction.
If you have any questions, please feel free to email me and I will respond as quickly as possible.
2WD
4 cylinders
16-valve dual overhead cam turbo charged
Red with black top
Black interior
Manual 5 speed
Driver Air bag
Alloy wheels
(just noticed that he published my question and his response. I wonder if he'll publish my retort)
Number one, there's chrome-pep-boys stripping on the doors like a ******* retard.
Number two, I asked this: Dear chaz2001,
Could you at least give us a CLUE about the turbo set up? Like, if you
could write a 500 word essay about your turbo, what would you write?
His response:
I am not going to write a 500 word essay in a response on eBay and I am not
sure what else you want to know. The item description states all the
information. Ask me a specific question and I will respond to that
question.
-chaz2001
I'd like to send a bitch-slap through the email system. WTF, he gives more info about his deer whistles then the turbo.
In case this gets dredged up in a search thirty years from now when someone is searching for ways NOT to place an eBay ad, here's the entire written description:
Vehicle Description
You are bidding on a 1993 Mazda Miata MX5 Convertible with Turbo charged engine
Equipped with factory air conditioning. The car has a luggage rack,
cruise control and AM FM CD Player, which were added after market.
It is a fun car to drive and gets great gas mileage.
The mileage is 91973. The car has been stored under cover and does not have fading from the sun. The body is clean and has not had any repairs.
The tires have lots of mileage left on them.
There is a bra on the front. The convertible top is in excellent condition.
The struts and shocks are new. It has a rebuilt radiator and new hoses, flushed, and put in new coolant.
There are 2 deer whistles on the hood.
Buyer is responsible for shipping.
A $500.00 deposit through PayPal at end of auction.
If you have any questions, please feel free to email me and I will respond as quickly as possible.
2WD
4 cylinders
16-valve dual overhead cam turbo charged
Red with black top
Black interior
Manual 5 speed
Driver Air bag
Alloy wheels
(just noticed that he published my question and his response. I wonder if he'll publish my retort)
#54
I'd like to thank you, whoever this was. I KNOW it was one of you:
Q: What brand is the turbocharger? How much boost does it run? How long has it been installed? Who installed it? Are they shocks OR struts and what brand? When was the last timing belt change? What brand is the rollbar? What kind of oil do you use? What brand/size are those wheels? What size are the tires? Are the brake calipers painted? It looks like an aftermarket exhaust... which one? It looks like there are some wires and zipties on the firewall... what are they for? I can also see an aftermarket BOV... what brand is it? Thanks for the answers. Jul-28-08
A: The turbo charger was on the car when purchased from Woodhouse Mazda in Omaha Nebraska, there are shocks and struts, the roll bar is original, Stan Olsen Mazda in Omaha Nebraska is where the oil was changed, the wheels are American Racing size 14....I don't know what a BOV is. I'm a complete ***.
Q: What brand is the turbocharger? How much boost does it run? How long has it been installed? Who installed it? Are they shocks OR struts and what brand? When was the last timing belt change? What brand is the rollbar? What kind of oil do you use? What brand/size are those wheels? What size are the tires? Are the brake calipers painted? It looks like an aftermarket exhaust... which one? It looks like there are some wires and zipties on the firewall... what are they for? I can also see an aftermarket BOV... what brand is it? Thanks for the answers. Jul-28-08
A: The turbo charger was on the car when purchased from Woodhouse Mazda in Omaha Nebraska, there are shocks and struts, the roll bar is original, Stan Olsen Mazda in Omaha Nebraska is where the oil was changed, the wheels are American Racing size 14....I don't know what a BOV is. I'm a complete ***.
#55
Now, I need someone's experienced opinion. Sam, since looking at Salvage cars was your idea, maybe you can chime in.
I found this car in my craigslist search.
Here's the text from the ad: For sale. 2000 Mazda Miata LS. White exterior. Tan Leather interior. Tan top. 5 speed transmission. Limited slip rear diff. 17" Enkei wheels. Tein 1" lowering springs. Aem intake. Cold a/c. Runs and shifts great. 69,000 Miles. Garage kept. Front bumper needs to be painted and quarter behind driver door needs some body work. Priced under low book value to offset repairs. Has a Virginia repaired{branded} title. Asking $5500.
I talked to the guy. He told me that he bought it in an auction. The front subframe was damaged, along with some suspension parts. One of the wheels was taco'd pretty good (that's why he went with the enkeis). He seemed pretty knowledgeable, with is good. He mentioned that he had pics of the car when it was up on the lift, and that he would post them and send me a link. I'll post it when I get it.
One issue is that as a Salvage title, it isn't going to have a great resale value if I ever need to sell. Another issue is that Ruckersville Va is two and a half miles away.
Is anyone close enough to check it out? (case of beer in it for ya)
What would you value this car at? I'd like to try to talk him down, but I don't want to insult him (he hasn't proved that he deserves flaming, yet).
Thanks for the help!
Here's his link
I found this car in my craigslist search.
Here's the text from the ad: For sale. 2000 Mazda Miata LS. White exterior. Tan Leather interior. Tan top. 5 speed transmission. Limited slip rear diff. 17" Enkei wheels. Tein 1" lowering springs. Aem intake. Cold a/c. Runs and shifts great. 69,000 Miles. Garage kept. Front bumper needs to be painted and quarter behind driver door needs some body work. Priced under low book value to offset repairs. Has a Virginia repaired{branded} title. Asking $5500.
I talked to the guy. He told me that he bought it in an auction. The front subframe was damaged, along with some suspension parts. One of the wheels was taco'd pretty good (that's why he went with the enkeis). He seemed pretty knowledgeable, with is good. He mentioned that he had pics of the car when it was up on the lift, and that he would post them and send me a link. I'll post it when I get it.
One issue is that as a Salvage title, it isn't going to have a great resale value if I ever need to sell. Another issue is that Ruckersville Va is two and a half miles away.
Is anyone close enough to check it out? (case of beer in it for ya)
What would you value this car at? I'd like to try to talk him down, but I don't want to insult him (he hasn't proved that he deserves flaming, yet).
Thanks for the help!
Here's his link
Last edited by oilstain; 07-28-2008 at 10:47 PM.
#57
I figure since I'm on my second salvage Miata that I should probably know something about this. There are currently 3 Miatas in the salvage shop I work at. One is mine, one is the shop beater, and another is a friends who also has a BEGi S3 on the shelf waiting to go in. The two have already been fixed, mine is still waiting while I drive the shop beater. My last Miata was also fixed in this shop and has a salvage title.
This guy looked like he replaced everything that was messed up in the accident except for a little body work/paint. The car would definitely need to be inspected by a professional mechanic before attempting to purchase. BUT salvage cars always sell for less money, which sucks for resale, but good for you to buy. The only thing I would worry about is if the suspension has been repositioned correctly; make sure you're not trying to align the car and do suspension mods to a car that is all bent up. Also make sure the frame is straight. Thats all I can think of. I think buying a salvage miata is awesome, as long as its already been repaired or you have the shop to do the work.
This guy looked like he replaced everything that was messed up in the accident except for a little body work/paint. The car would definitely need to be inspected by a professional mechanic before attempting to purchase. BUT salvage cars always sell for less money, which sucks for resale, but good for you to buy. The only thing I would worry about is if the suspension has been repositioned correctly; make sure you're not trying to align the car and do suspension mods to a car that is all bent up. Also make sure the frame is straight. Thats all I can think of. I think buying a salvage miata is awesome, as long as its already been repaired or you have the shop to do the work.
#58
If I had an extra 2 grand, I'd be driving up to Philly right now:
Craigslist
1999 Turbo Mazda Miata - $6000 (Philadelphia)
Reply to: sale-774782175@craigslist.org
Date: 2008-07-29, 1:35PM EDT
The car is a 1999 Miata PEP package with cruise control, A/C, Power Steering, LSD, and a color matched Aero Package which include a front spoiler, side skirts, and mud flaps. The motor was rebuilt 8,000 miles ago to accomadate a turbo. The turbo is a td04-15g turbo with a custom stainless steel down pipe & exhaust. The intercooler and intercooler piping are custom as well. All reciepts including the warranty are available. The car is extremely fast and fuel efficient .I also have the boot cover for when the top is down. The paint and interior are both in great condition along with everything else. The car has always been taken care of and maintenance records are available upon request. Please Contact Max at 267-205-7924. Negotiations will be considered.
Craigslist
1999 Turbo Mazda Miata - $6000 (Philadelphia)
Reply to: sale-774782175@craigslist.org
Date: 2008-07-29, 1:35PM EDT
The car is a 1999 Miata PEP package with cruise control, A/C, Power Steering, LSD, and a color matched Aero Package which include a front spoiler, side skirts, and mud flaps. The motor was rebuilt 8,000 miles ago to accomadate a turbo. The turbo is a td04-15g turbo with a custom stainless steel down pipe & exhaust. The intercooler and intercooler piping are custom as well. All reciepts including the warranty are available. The car is extremely fast and fuel efficient .I also have the boot cover for when the top is down. The paint and interior are both in great condition along with everything else. The car has always been taken care of and maintenance records are available upon request. Please Contact Max at 267-205-7924. Negotiations will be considered.
#59
That would be THIS guy right here. I didn't think his reply would even be that good.
In any case, the white one looks like a deal if it was repaired properly. You've gotta think that KBB on that car is probably like $10k, so if he totaled it, that means he really hurt it. I'd want to see records from the shop that did the work... and some detailed pictures of the repair.
I'll definitely be looking for salvage titles when I do my '99. Something like that white one might even be enough to get me into an '00+ if it's straight.
In any case, the white one looks like a deal if it was repaired properly. You've gotta think that KBB on that car is probably like $10k, so if he totaled it, that means he really hurt it. I'd want to see records from the shop that did the work... and some detailed pictures of the repair.
I'll definitely be looking for salvage titles when I do my '99. Something like that white one might even be enough to get me into an '00+ if it's straight.
#60
That would be THIS guy right here. I didn't think his reply would even be that good.
In any case, the white one looks like a deal if it was repaired properly. You've gotta think that KBB on that car is probably like $10k, so if he totaled it, that means he really hurt it. I'd want to see records from the shop that did the work... and some detailed pictures of the repair.
I'll definitely be looking for salvage titles when I do my '99. Something like that white one might even be enough to get me into an '00+ if it's straight.
In any case, the white one looks like a deal if it was repaired properly. You've gotta think that KBB on that car is probably like $10k, so if he totaled it, that means he really hurt it. I'd want to see records from the shop that did the work... and some detailed pictures of the repair.
I'll definitely be looking for salvage titles when I do my '99. Something like that white one might even be enough to get me into an '00+ if it's straight.
One thing he mentioned was that each airbag was well over a thousand bucks new, he bought some non-new-take-outs.
The KBB is only about $8900 for an 00, with 65000mi. (that's private party, which is closer to what insurance pays out/uses as the total figure, in my experience)
If you count the airbags as 3k, then it looks like you could get pretty close to totaled without frame damage.