New rad + ac, overheating ?
Hey,
Just installed a new Mishimoto rad in my 97 NA, the old stock rad could not hold boosting with ac on I would see temps up to 240F (115C) and then I would turn off the ac.
Even when driving hard with the stock rad and no ac, it would still overheat.
On the trip home with the new rad I noticed that it would still heat up with ac and boosting but much slower, I got up to 212F (100C).
There is still space between the rad and the body, and there is space between the right fan and the rad.
No coolant is missing.
The fans run together.
Fans turn on @ 194F(90C) and off @ 188F(87C).
Ambient @ 86F(30C)
Got IC.
I'm good ?
Thanks
Just installed a new Mishimoto rad in my 97 NA, the old stock rad could not hold boosting with ac on I would see temps up to 240F (115C) and then I would turn off the ac.
Even when driving hard with the stock rad and no ac, it would still overheat.
On the trip home with the new rad I noticed that it would still heat up with ac and boosting but much slower, I got up to 212F (100C).
There is still space between the rad and the body, and there is space between the right fan and the rad.
No coolant is missing.
The fans run together.
Fans turn on @ 194F(90C) and off @ 188F(87C).
Ambient @ 86F(30C)
Got IC.
I'm good ?
Thanks
What Vlad said (assuming that by no shroud you mean that you've removed or cut big, unsealed holes in the air guide/undertray).
More than likely, had you had decent ducting you would have been fine even with the OEM radiator.
Bigger radiator doesn't hurt anything and a reroute does great things to even out engine temperatures and increase water flow to the radiator (at the expense of water flow to the heater core).
My car is 100% OEM cooling system with ducting in like-new condition and a reroute. I'm cool as a cucumber in 100+ -- including idling in traffic with AC and track days. I do turn the wick down to 5psi for track days though.
More than likely, had you had decent ducting you would have been fine even with the OEM radiator.
Bigger radiator doesn't hurt anything and a reroute does great things to even out engine temperatures and increase water flow to the radiator (at the expense of water flow to the heater core).
My car is 100% OEM cooling system with ducting in like-new condition and a reroute. I'm cool as a cucumber in 100+ -- including idling in traffic with AC and track days. I do turn the wick down to 5psi for track days though.
100+C is ok?
I idle @ 90-93C traffic with AC on.
I boost 10-12psi
The stock rad was 3 years old, no way it would hold boost+AC when is is over 30C out side, even without AC it would over hear.
I idle @ 90-93C traffic with AC on.
I boost 10-12psi
The stock rad was 3 years old, no way it would hold boost+AC when is is over 30C out side, even without AC it would over hear.
a radiator doesn't hold boost.
and your issue is lack of airflow that is generated by lack of shrouding (and from your description lack of fan shrouds too)
a 3 year old radiator is actually fairly new
and your issue is lack of airflow that is generated by lack of shrouding (and from your description lack of fan shrouds too)
a 3 year old radiator is actually fairly new
I have my fans set progressively. First one on at 195F, second at 210F or when A/C is on, whichever comes first. Off at 185.
Until this past May, my car had the original factory radiator in it. Cooled just fine despite being 9 years old.
I only replaced it because the tanks were getting green, which is a bad sign.
I only replaced it because the tanks were getting green, which is a bad sign.
We need pics, please provide
You list temperatures in C horsepower as wbhp and 95RON for fuel, so I'm guessing you are in Europe. What you call a shroud we may call something else.
If you removed this thing from your car, put it back on:
You list temperatures in C horsepower as wbhp and 95RON for fuel, so I'm guessing you are in Europe. What you call a shroud we may call something else.
If you removed this thing from your car, put it back on:







