Odometer tampering?
Looking into getting an inexpensive miata to play with. Tracked one down one craigslist with just under 130k, but this odometer looks like it's been tampered with — the numbers aren't lining up. Is this normal?:

Guy is wanting $1700 for it, but it needs a new top and somebody has painted a few interior panels

Guy is wanting $1700 for it, but it needs a new top and somebody has painted a few interior panels
Rolled back by a rookie.
I can fix it for you. The mechanism is pretty simple. Just tell me what you want it to say. I can make it show your birthdate if you want.
But yes that one was tampered with.
I can fix it for you. The mechanism is pretty simple. Just tell me what you want it to say. I can make it show your birthdate if you want.
But yes that one was tampered with.
Definitely tampered.
I've done it myself. I've owned enough gauge clusters over the years (I have 5 in my office right now) that I got curious one day. Rolled one digit - bam. They all went to **** and looked very similar to that. I didn't try disassembling completely, but I couldn't even get it back to "correct." The digits stayed misaligned.
I've done it myself. I've owned enough gauge clusters over the years (I have 5 in my office right now) that I got curious one day. Rolled one digit - bam. They all went to **** and looked very similar to that. I didn't try disassembling completely, but I couldn't even get it back to "correct." The digits stayed misaligned.
Haven't run it yet — figured I'd save myself $35 or whatever it costs these days.
Thanks fellas.
Before all this, I asked the guy for his bottom dollar, he says it's $1200. Just told him that it looks like the odometer has been tampered with, and asked for the VIN # to run a carfax. What do you guys think? Here's some more pictures:





I think I could find replacement bezels at a junk yard, he says the driver's seat has a small rip under those covers, and it needs a new top.





I think I could find replacement bezels at a junk yard, he says the driver's seat has a small rip under those covers, and it needs a new top.
Last edited by guns_not_groceries; Nov 10, 2011 at 03:35 PM.
There are huge gains to be had by replacing the airbox with a giant cone filter right before the MAF, which is not at all restrictive. While I'm at it, I like to keep the filter as close to the exhaust manifold as possible. The valve cover breather is also tremendously useful for keeping all that crankcase pressure from building up. Sure, the engine is N/A, but it is necessary because of all the mad tyte blowby you get with 330,000 only 130,000 miles on the motor. The unplugged port allows extra air into the motor that is not restricted by a filter, and more importantly, it is unmetered, and this is great for a smooth running engine. The crossover tube has also been cut and the two sections reattached at a slight offset to induce turbulence, thereby improving economy just like the Tornado Fuel Saver™.
I might pay $500 if I needed a tub for an engine swap recipient. Otherwise it looks like more trouble than it's worth.
I might pay $500 if I needed a tub for an engine swap recipient. Otherwise it looks like more trouble than it's worth.
All 4 of my Miata started as projects in pretty bad shape, hell the 97 had the front end smashed in. I still wouldn't toutch that car. When someone has half assed that many things on the surface, you will never know what they kocked up that you can't see.







