Oil Temp gauge in Cluster (Pics)
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Haven't seen it done before, thought I'd post pics. Pretty easy install, worked out well aside from some illumination issues....
It's just a standard 2 1/16" AutoMeter Sport comp gauge. Took it out of its case and stuffed it in the cluster. --Alex |
Originally Posted by AlexO35
(Post 304840)
Haven't seen it done before, thought I'd post one single pic and leave you wanting more
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hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
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What about oil pressure now? Both are fairly important... I'd take Pressure over Temp personally.
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Pressure is in a 2 5/8" gauge in a pod to the left of the cluster. I wanted that on a bit more visible.
--Alex |
I, also, would like pics of the back of the cluster.
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Cool. What kind of oil temps are you seeing?
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Highest I've seen was aproaching 210º. I don't trust it though, I didn't calibrate it before I put it in. I suppose I'll have to tear it apart and take more pics this weekend....
--Alex |
Yep, you will. :)
Did you have to modify the cluster at all? Been considering this for a while, but haven't had the time to start in on it. And what illumination issues are you having? |
I really want to do a full autometer cluster. I just don't want to get rid of the odometer. A full custom cluster with a stock speedo would be lame.
Looks really good though. |
I had to modify the cluster a bit. I'll explain with the pics, it'll be much easier.
The face on the stock gauge seems to be more translucent than the AutoMeter so the lighting was visible through the gauge. The AutoMeters seem to put the light around the perimeter illuminating from the edges. Since the face is tight to the plastic there isn't enough light to see the gauge and it doesn't shine though from the back side.... Long story short, can't see it at night.... --Alex |
Nice, I replaced the stock water temp gauge with a boost gauge in the cluster of my NX2000, and will be doing the same in the Miata (WT & OP) with VDO Vision's.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/cscarpulla/R9nN...0/IMGP3461.JPG C |
I been really wanting to attempt replacing the oem Clt Temp gauge in the cluster with an actual clt temp gauge...but was worried of what it'd entail.
Please provide a real good writeup of some sort. Anyone ever tried replacing the whole cluster altogether, successfully? As in with good lighting, and not looking like crap? Subscribed for details... |
Thanks for the motivation Alex! After seeing your pictures I decided it was time for me to get off my ass and do this. None of this is difficult, all it takes is a Dremel with a few bits, a Sharpie, and patience.
Begin by totally disassembling your cluster, I had the good fortune to have a spare one on the shelf (Hi Braineak!). I used VDO Vision gauges, and removed the outer bezel and glass from them. Starting with the oil pressure gauge, I used the Dremel to get rid of anything in the way, and made holes in the back of the cluster to fit the gauge connectors & bulbs. Notice that I kept one of the light bulbs in the cluster, because it was very close to the OP gauge body. http://lh5.ggpht.com/cscarpulla/SMHa...0/IMG_4761.jpg Making room for the The WT gauge was similar. http://lh5.ggpht.com/cscarpulla/SMHa...0/IMG_4764.jpg I needed to sand down the lip around the perimeter of the OP gauge, as well as a few spots on the inner bezel. http://lh5.ggpht.com/cscarpulla/SMHa...0/IMG_4765.jpg Oooh, nice snug fit. :) http://lh4.ggpht.com/cscarpulla/SMHa...0/IMG_4766.jpg The WT gauge isn't held steady by anything.... yet http://lh6.ggpht.com/cscarpulla/SMHa...0/IMG_4767.jpg Here's the secret to centering the WT gauge. The ring on the backside of the cluster face fits nicely inside the VDO gauges, and centers them. http://lh4.ggpht.com/cscarpulla/SMHa...0/IMG_4785.jpg How nice is that? http://lh6.ggpht.com/cscarpulla/SMHa...0/IMG_4776.jpg And another. http://lh4.ggpht.com/cscarpulla/SMHa...0/IMG_4777.jpg Onto the back, and the holes to pass the bulbs and connectors through. http://lh4.ggpht.com/cscarpulla/SMHa...0/IMG_4768.jpg http://lh3.ggpht.com/cscarpulla/SMHa...0/IMG_4771.jpg http://lh4.ggpht.com/cscarpulla/SMHa...0/IMG_4772.jpg I'll need to bridge the cut traces here. http://lh4.ggpht.com/cscarpulla/SMHa...0/IMG_4790.jpg No need to cut anything behind the WT gauge, just fold it back. http://lh3.ggpht.com/cscarpulla/SMHa...0/IMG_4783.jpg And the overall view. Not bad for an hour's worth of play. http://lh3.ggpht.com/cscarpulla/SMHa...0/IMG_4773.jpg This is just a rough start, I'll tidy things up a bit. Just wanted to show that it's not difficult. C |
Wow, loving the pics/details man. Please keep going thru to the finished product.
I suppose they are snug enough to not fall loose due to typical vibrations? Or do u plan on using something to secure them better, such as some kind of adhesive or whatnot? Lastly, very curious about the lighting. From what it seems the gauges themselves light up, not the background. Which would simplify things quite a bit. I guess I'm picturing a dark gauge, with the hash marks/needles lit only? Very interesting stuff man, at least IMO. |
always wanted to do something similar!
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Nice work guys!
For the lazy bunch out there, there actually is a company that does this with autometer gauges. Here's the link: http://www.miatagauges.com/ |
Very nice work. Its about time somebody tried this. Best part is if you do the oil pressure you can reuse. the stock wiring.
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I did it a bit differently....
Took the gauge works out ot the Autometer housing. Just pryed the "chrome" bezel off with a screw driver, removed the nuts from the back and the works came right out. The nuts on the back are to set the height of the gauge once its in the cluster. |
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Both the stock gauge and the new one both have three posts, but the Autometers third was on top insted or the bottom.
Had to elongate the two bottom holes and drill the third. After that the new gauge pops right in the old location. Two nuts on the back and its secure. I used the original bottom hole to rout the wires. Oh, and I cut out the old traces. Probably could use 'em, they thick enough to solder to, just didn't. |
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Just for kicks I replaced the aluminum AutoMeter gauge face, scanned it and printed it on photo paper. This is how the illumination looks. Much better, but still not right....
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Wow, that last picture sucks.... You get the idea though....
Found this on electic gauge calibration. That's tomorrows project. http://alteredz.com/gagecalibration.htm --Alex |
Me likey where this is going...
Waiting to see completed and some (edit)BETTER(edit) night/illuminated shots, |
Are you going to use the green light "condom" to make the lights illuminate the same color as the stock gauges?
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They're all on still. I didn't put an additional bulb behind the gauge. I think what I'll do is put a green filter behind the new gauge face. Hopefully that'l do it.
--Alex |
6 year thread necro. Because its the best thread covering the topic. Those who have put other gauges in the stock hood, where did you pull power for the lighting so the gauge lights turned on with the stock gauges?
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Just tie the aftermarket bulb into the bulb circuit on the flexible circuit board.
C |
Thats the obvious answer. I havent taken the cluster apart yet. I'm guessing once I have it apart it will be super obvious which tracing is for the rest of the bulbs.
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All will be clear once you've got it in front of you.
C |
I highly recommend NOT soldering to the flex circuit, make contact mechanically.
-Zach |
If you can get the gauge cluster out, finding the nearby fuse box below the steering wheel should be an absolute cakewalk.
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I did this with my tach. After messing with the stock tach way to much I could not get it to work with my sawp. I used an autoguage tack removed it from its housing and was able to mount it in the cluster and run the wires out tapping into the power and ground screws on the cluster without ever having to cut the circuit board and it uses the factory back lighting and works well. This one also has a shift light built in that I extended the wires to the dash for the adjustment knob. After seeing this I should have done my oil pressure gauge at the same time.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1389814477 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1389814477 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1389814477 |
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Originally Posted by thasac
(Post 1092011)
I highly recommend NOT soldering to the flex circuit, make contact mechanically.
-Zach *did some more reading. I already have the lighting wiring wrong. Need to use the ground and the +12 from the lights since the ground it what is switched. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1390162037 |
Yeah, you need to run both bulb leads to the dimmer circuit, otherwise the bulb will dim in reverse to where you set the dimmer. I just checked a spare cluster, and unfortunately none of the screw terminals go to the backlight circuit. So you will need to either tap into the wire harness, or solder directly to the flexible circuit board. It's not hard, you just need a very light touch. Obviously you can't keep the soldering iron in contact long, but tinning the connection first helps.
C |
That is the conclusion I came to. Going to do it next week.
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