the parts to complete my project
 

engine:
255 walbro fuel pump
cops 98-01 toyota carolla
torsen 4:10
exedy stage 2 clutch
oil cooler
arp head studs
arp main stauds
cometic head gasket
oem gaskets all of them
begi ssm
custom 3" downpipe
turbo garrett 2860rs (disco potato)
stainlees oil lines
stainlees water lines
hks bov limted usa edition black
fmic 22x9x3
2.5" fmic pipping
weisco turbo pistons 79mm bore
corrilo h rods
oem water pump
oem oil pump
hks cam shafts
maruha cam gears
gates racing timing belt
super tech valves
super tech valve spring
super tech guides
msm pcv valve
custon 3" straight pipe

interier:
330 mm nardi deep corner leather
trust shift knob
bride zeta 2 black seat
memery fab seat rails
broadway mirror
aem true boost
aem wideband
aem oil temp
megasquirt pnp
hard dogg m2 hard core roll bar

suspension:
stance gr+ coilovers
racing beat rear subfram barce
mazdaspeed tower bar

wheels:
15x7 et 38 panasport wheels on yoko s drives
15x8 et -3 work equip 03's gold on toyo t1r's
my plan is to buy to rear wheels in 15x10 et -10

exterier:
gv headlight cover
trap 100mm front lip
jubiride fender flares
autoconxion ver2 trunk lid
oem hard top


my question was when do 550cc injectors max out.
do i need a fuel presure regulator
is it true megasquirt can only hold 21.5psi after that u need to add or change something in the ecu.

my goal was to run race gas at i dunno 26-28psi.yes the car is a 1.6 and is there anything else i need to no thanks alot

Thats quite a list.

I dont know that 550s will be able to give you much below about 12:1 or so AFR at that kind of boost with a reasonable duty cycle. I would make sure you have a good AFPR as a matter of course. I found in my last project that setting my base pressure a bit lower allowed me to get the tuning at idle a bit more freindly. Then too, that was with 950CC injectors that I really did not need.

Personaly, after my last experience with a pretty rapid build, its best to buy things in small batches and go slowly, finding potential issues as you go.

Afpr? thats a fuel presure regulator

There's a pretty simple calculator to size injectors, do a google search. Obviously it's not going to be tied to PSI, but how much power you end up making.

After 21psi you need to upgrade the MAP sensor to the 3 BAR unit.

And with a shopping list like that, I can haz your trust fund ??

how much does that cost do i get it from diyautotune

You can specify it when you order the unit, its only a few dollars.

Tbh if you are doing all this, do it to a 1.8 from a scrapyard you'll thank me later.

too late on the 1.8 money is all spent. i have a pnp megasquirt good for 21 psi is there anything i can do to get a 3bar map or do i have to order a whole new ecu with a 3bar inside already

RC Fuel Injection


Good point. I seem to be in insomniac mode, so there we go. A 2860 with all the goodies should be making at least 300 HP at the crank at 27 psig with race gas, and that calculator shows the 550s starting to run out of breath in that area.

Sorry about the AFPR idea :noob:

what i made 301hp lasy year at 12 psi with 550cc and 190 fuel pump same turbo

Thats pretty high HP for 12 psig on a 2860 AFAIK, but it just makes my point for me. If you hit 300 or so HP on 12 psig, then there is no way that the 550s will handle the amount of airflow/HP you will have at double that boost.

Dump the cometic head gasket and use an OEM HG - if you blow an OEM HG you have serious issues that reach well beyond the quality of the gasket used.

Your intercooler is undersized for 25+psi, as is the turbo. The GT2860RS isn't efficient past ~22psi, so you'll be blowing plenty of hot air at 26.

Your clutch is SORELY lacking - I don't have any experience with an Exedy Stage 2 clutch, but I strongly doubt it's able to handle the 400-450whp you're talking about making here.

I would also opt for an ECU that has better knock sensing capability than the MSPNP does. The OEM CAS is a liability at the kind of power levels you're talking about as well - you need to strongly consider a crank trigger.

I'd like to see a dyno chart to back that 300whp@12psi as well, as well as an ECU map.

get some BE billet oil pump gears if you want your motor to last, trust me

Yes you can retrofit a 3 bar map sensor to the PNP, order one from diyautotune then you will have to open the case up and switch it out. You can find details in the assembly guide from MegaSquirt - Electronic Fuel Injection Computer by Bowling and Grippo ©2010 . Your board will look slightly different because it is a V3.75 using SMD components but the map sensor is the same. Once it's soldered in place you will have to configure the MS to use the 3bar sensor in the mega configurator. +1 on the crank trigger mine is great.

Other shit to throw on the list (why not?)

water injection for safety or glory
ati dampner
accusump for safety and glory

do i really need an ati damper the thing is like 500$?
after what psi level do i need race fuel? I read 16psi is that true.

i guess im not going to pass the 21 psi mark this year anyways thanks alot guys for the help and answering my questions.

You posted a $10,000 parts list and you're complaining about a $500 part? They reduce harmonic vibration (which the BP has a severe problem with) and FM claims they can run more timing in cars with ATI dampers on them.

There is no limit to the boost you can run on pump gas vs. race gas - that's a question for the professional you hire to tune your car.

its not the fact of that its the fact its 500$ for just a small piece like that speaking my mind thats all

does anyone know which 1000cc injoctors i need from rc part number would be greatly appreciated

1000cc might be a bit over kill. You may have trouble getting it to idle nicely.

BTW you say that you have most of this stuff already. How about throwing some pictures up? Us folks at MT like pictures of shiny stuff.