Can I stuff the oil cooler behind the intercooler, in front of the condenser?


btw, any pressure issues when the t-state is not activated, the oil passage is pretty small on my mocal sammitch plate.

 

Probably an ideal location for it. You don't need much airflow to see a pretty massive reduction in oil temp.

Now sure what you mean by pressure issues. What's the specific concern you have?

 

When the thermostat is not engaged, of course oil does not flow through the lines. The hole which bypasses the lines for oil flow, is really, really small.

 

can't see it being great for the condenser and a/c perfomance. figure the air coming out of the intercooler when boosting is 150 deg, plus add 50-75 deg from the oil cooler.

What about a small cooler somewhere convienent under the hood, but with a 12V fan stapped to it to provide air flow. That's what they do for airplanes and boats.

 

I have the 24 row cooler btw. I am considering going behind in front of the wheel well, venting the liner, and maybe even cutting the plastic undertray, and mounting it flush there.

 

Do I need to fill the cooler with oil before I run the car? It holds about 1/3rd of a quart, and I don't care to run without pressure for an instant.

 

Well, I've got the FM sandwich plate on my car, which is a Mocal part. When the engine is cold, my indicated oil pressure is still 90PSI and above, so I'd have to say that no, the plate isn't causing a serious flow restriction.

One problem I do have is that my oil is now *too* cold. I have to really work the engine to get it much over 150 degrees F, whereas it should be at least 200 degrees. And I have the smallest oil cooler that I could find, an Earls' 21008 (changed from -8 to -10), which is only a 3" x 4" core. Which is why I say that putting the oil cooler behind the intercooler certainly isn't going to cause you any problems insofar as the oil is concerned.

I think what I really need to do is either install a second, hotter thermostat after the plate, or remove the plate altogether, do a full remote-filter setup, and use a single, higher-temp thermostat. I need to get my oil temps up.

BTW- details on my cooler setup: http://www.geocities.com/thraddox/oi...2/cooler2.html

 

So you're oil temps aren't getting up to the t-stat activation temp? God damn-it!!! This is not good.

 

so should I start with -10AN parts, to avoid the pressure drop problem?

 

Well, I think that either the thermostat is opening too soon, or there is too much oil bypassing it. Mine may be a fluke however, and I have not yet tried opening it up and shimming it.

My general philosophy with oil lines is that bigger is always better. The threads on your sandwich plate are 1/2" BSP, and you can get adaptors from Pegasus to go to -10AN.

 

Here is another set-up worth looking at

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/123091/12

 

thanks. I just ran to the hydraulic shop. I picked up a bunch of JIC fittings, 90* and 45* swivels with 8' of hose for $40. Hopefully my oil get up to temp, and not above 250.

I was hitting 280* with mobile1 10w30 a few weeks ago in 42* weather on a track day. Hopefully this will fix it.

 

I just installed mine here, I would think is somewhere dangerous. I might need to relocated at some point. I have not hook up oil lines.

 

You just need to put some kind of screening on the back of it to protect it from debris.

 

If you can, plumb the cooler outlet top, inlet on the bottom. This will make sure that any air bubbles are purged easily.

As for pre-filling the cooler, anything you can do to eliminate a dry start is a good thing. Maybe even disconnect the ignitor and spin the motor till the gauge registers pressure.

 

When you change your oil do you just not worry about the oil left in the oil cooler, or is that also a large part of the consideration as for where you mount it. Be nice if there was a way to make sure you weren't leave that extra 1/3-1/2 a qt of used oil in there. Not that it is that insanely important but it would be nice.

 

wont the oil pan drain generally be lower than the oil cooler anyway?

 

If the inlet outlets of your oil cooler are like mimime then the the oil should drain down to the pan. I guess I was thinking the inlet/outlets were on the top of that unit. So yeah i guess long as you're mounting it above the pan it should be fine.

 

I don't worry about it consdering the capacity has been increased and the oil/filter is changed regularly and it's really no different than oil sitting "around" the rest of the engine. But in that up/down fender position would allow pulling a line to drain it if desired.

Speaking of dry starts- I used an old propane tank as a preluber. Just put a valve on the top with a barb fitting, drilled a hole for a tire valve to pressurize. Then fill with oil, add about 60psi of air, hook it up to the intake side bung on the oil pump, turn tank upside down and open the valve. You can hear the oil running through the galleys in the head. Cool stuff.

 

Sounds like a huge version of the aerosol "prelubers" you can buy. Darn right it sounds like cool stuff.