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Old 05-25-2010, 06:45 PM   #1
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Default recomend a 1 3/4" water temp gague

while my dash is out i'm going to switch the gages in the cluster for a real one. can anyone recommend one that looks like 99 oem, so black face and green lights are a big plus.
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Old 05-25-2010, 07:07 PM   #2
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Not sure how the innards of an NB cluster compare to an NA, but I used VDO Visions in mine.
http://picasaweb.google.com/cscarpulla/miatagauges#



C
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Old 05-25-2010, 07:23 PM   #3
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think it's the same for both years, is the oil press also vdo?
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Old 05-25-2010, 09:36 PM   #4
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Quote:
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think it's the same for both years, is the oil press also vdo?
Yes it is.

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Old 05-26-2010, 12:56 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by chriscar View Post
Yes it is.

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they don't show a price on there site, what did you pay?
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Old 05-26-2010, 10:23 AM   #6
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omori you faeg:
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Old 05-26-2010, 10:24 AM   #7
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I have a black w/red lighting greddy EGT and greddy temp gauge if you want to trade or whatever.
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Old 05-26-2010, 10:26 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff_man View Post
they don't show a price on there site, what did you pay?
I don't know which site you're looking at, but I bought them from eguages.com

This isn't a 'drop in' procedure, you need to mod the innards of the cluster. Did you look at the pics in the link I posted?
http://picasaweb.google.com/cscarpulla/miatagauges#


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Old 05-27-2010, 04:15 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
I have a black w/red lighting greddy EGT and greddy temp gauge if you want to trade or whatever.
i called you to ask about your gauges yesterday but you didn't pick up so i forgot about it. i looked on the greedy site and they where listed for 150-200 =X

looking into ways to change my gauges cluster to blue back lighting seeing as i can only find 1 green light water temp gauge with a black face.

Last edited by jeff_man; 05-27-2010 at 05:05 AM.
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Old 07-15-2010, 05:37 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscar View Post
I don't know which site you're looking at, but I bought them from eguages.com

This isn't a 'drop in' procedure, you need to mod the innards of the cluster. Did you look at the pics in the link I posted?
http://picasaweb.google.com/cscarpulla/miatagauges#


C
Bringing this up as it was referenced in the deja vu thread.

The cutting of plastic is easy.

The circut board on the back scares me. What did you have to do with that? Any electrical bits you needed to cut into/move/anything?
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Old 07-15-2010, 06:00 PM   #11
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I don't have any completed pics of the back of that cluster, but I probably had to solder in a few jumpers. It's not rocket science though, you just need to follow the traces visually, and replace the ones you cut out. You'll also want to wire the bulb from the aftermarket gauge into the same circuit as the cluster bulbs, but again, the traces are right there to see.

Here's the back side of an SE-R cluster I did for a buddy of mine. It allot more work than the Miata cluster, because you need to chop out part of the socket in the lower left hand corner.

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Old 07-15-2010, 06:03 PM   #12
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Wow, that really makes my head hurt to look at. It might not be rocket science, but i have no idea in looking at that picture where the lines go, or even what you're soldering to.

Assume the black bits on there are like flat wires, can you just solder anywhere on them?
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Old 07-15-2010, 06:09 PM   #13
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It's a flexible circuit board. The lines are the circuits. Most of each circuit is covered with a non-conductive material, and the areas left uncovered are copper colored. If you aren't proficient at soldering, this may not be a good mod to undertake, as it's tricky to solder without burning a hole through the plastic.

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Old 07-15-2010, 06:28 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nagase View Post
i have no idea in looking at that picture where the lines go, or even what you're soldering to.
Here's the thing, you don't really need to know where they go. You just need to replace whatever you've cut out.

Follow the dotted green line from the upper left side of the picture line to where I cut the circuit out to make room for the bulb, and beyond to the solder pad. This is a convient place to solder a replacement wire to (as indicated by the dotted orange line). If there was no exposed solder pad, or bare copper, I would have scraped some of the blue coating off to expose the copper below it.

[edit]Same theory for the circuit between the two bulb sockets.[/edit]

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Old 07-15-2010, 06:31 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscar View Post
Here's the thing, you don't really need to know where they go. You just need to replace whatever you've cut out.

Follow the dotted green line from the upper left side of the picture line to where I cut the circuit out to make room for the bulb, and beyond to the solder pad. This is a convient place to solder a replacement wire to (as indicated by the dotted orange line). If there was no exposed solder pad, or bare copper, I would have scraped some of the blue coating off to expose the copper below it.

That is... beautiful. Thank you, you rock!
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Old 07-15-2010, 06:32 PM   #16
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Yeah! I didn't waste my time explaining it to you.

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Old 07-15-2010, 06:37 PM   #17
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Taking it a step further, should i connect these (poorly drawn colored squiggles)?

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Old 07-15-2010, 06:40 PM   #18
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The easy answer, unless you're smart enough to figure out otherwise, replace everything that you cut out. Just get your game plan finished BEFORE cutting.

And hot glue works nicely for tacking wires down. You can see where I used it on the back of the SE-R cluster in post #11

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Old 07-15-2010, 06:43 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscar View Post
The easy answer, unless you're smart enough to figure out otherwise, replace everything that you cut out. Just get your game plan finished BEFORE cutting.

And hot glue works nicely for tacking wires down. You can see where I used it on the back of the SE-R cluster in post #11

C
Easy pie. Off to get some VDO gauges.

Thank you again.
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