couple things:

1. I have heard (not any personal experience though) that flapper type AFM's arent any good for blow through. (inacurrate readings).

2. Why put the BOV all the way in the engine compartment. If you put it right after the compressor, the recirc pipe would only need to be a few inches long rather than many feet long.

Well Slo, BOV does actually need to go near the throttle body for good response, however, if you get a engine management I would just Vent to atmosphere...soooo much easier with your system.

Dude seriously congrats on getting this running. Some of the great benefits are now you can get some quality headers on the car that flow well, just keep a smaller diameter, and the engine bay looks less cluttered, and no one would know. I think for intercooler you should run water to air, but maybe instead a vertically mounted IC so that you don't have to run pipes to the opposite side of the car?

Are you basing that on expansion/compression of rubber vacuum lines? To counter-act the length of the line, a narrow nylon hose could be used. No expansion/compression and very little volume even over a great length. :)

They work just fine on the hot or cold side. I agree that for rerouting, mounting it on the hot side makes the most sense for a simple reroute.

wow cool did you get to drive it any why are doing a rearmount IC?

When the STS kit came out it was a joke and I still think it's so so so stupid. But they seem to work 'ok' for people. Which is actually disappointing to me. When they came out I'd hoped they wouldn't work worth a shit so I could say, "ha, told you so!" But that didn't end up happening. I believe they work ok, but they are the utter definition of a compromise.

well Kurt, in your defense I challenge doubters to take a look at a Subaru WRX/STi exhaust setup. After a few minutes, you will realize that it is basically a remote mounted turbo. From what I remember a few years ago when I was messing with my subaru, i seem to recall around 3 feet of piping from the exhaust port to the turbo on the side closest to the turbo and likely 5 or more on the other side of the motor. On the 2.0 w/ the td04-13 turboed wagon I owned, it was able to give me usable spoolup (a second or less before seeing boost) starting at 2500rpm with only a downpipe, gutted cat uppipe, and a reflashed ecu. At 3k, it was pretty much instant response which is better than my current 1.6/gt2554 setup.

other than being more effort than it's worth, it'll work, and work fine.

my problem is the lack of pictures of the build! :vash:

I like my turbo and I am glad I didn't go any bigger. It is the perfect size for me I think as its not too laggy and peaky, while not being too small to keep up at the top end like on the subaru where it actually slowed you down to shift any later than 6k rpm.

Are you going to keep that yellow flexpipe the way it is or do you have plans to build some hard pipes to replace it?

Looks good to me.

needs more dyno results or driving impressions. :D

If that's the yellow flex pipe you buy at Pep Boys for the rice rocket air filter relocations...it ain't gonna hold boost very long.

It looks like your crankcase breather is routed to an intake pipe post-turbo...please tell me I'm wrong ;)

OMFG!!!! YOU'RE RIGHT!!!! ACKKK! DUDE, HOW MANY TIMES HAVE WE TALKED ABOUT THAT AROUND HERE??!! :D

So, uh, yeah, anyway...you don't want to pressurize your crankcase, Kurt. Unless you like pushing oil past seals, out your dipstick, etc.

+$300 for a MEGAsquirt
-$200 for Bipes

and you could have simplified this installation 10-fold.



and +1 for the crankcase not enjoying boost.

where'd you get the oil pump?

That's what duct tape is for.

ouch good catch scot Kurt put a breater on that front vavle cover breather unless you want to be pusshing oil out off your orrifices.

You can try a one-way check valve, but, really, you want a constant source of vacuum on that breather...trust me. I tried a one-way check valve, and too much pressure builds up in the crankcase when in boost.