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Old 07-25-2007, 12:30 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lazzer408 View Post
Nope. If any part of the system was open to ambiant air it's empty. The high and low sides equalize via. the orifice before the evaporator so the entire system is empty. The only thing in there is oil. The reason they vac it down is to "boil off" any water or humidity in the system and remove all the air so there's nothing but freon (and oil) in there.
Call me 2 cent.

That's interesting. So the refrigerant simply evaporates or what? When I did mine, it had been open for a couple weeks, and I had some green-snotty-sludge stuff in a couple places that looked like the radioactive **** the guy had spilled on him at the end of Robocop. I guess if you wear gloves it can't really hurt you. OK, I guess the professional vaccum job isn't necessary.

TonyC, sorry man, when I think of SoCal, SanB/Riverside is the last place I think of... I'm trying to block out my 2 years at UCR.
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Old 07-25-2007, 02:04 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by samnavy View Post
That's interesting. So the refrigerant simply evaporates or what? When I did mine, it had been open for a couple weeks, and I had some green-snotty-sludge stuff in a couple places that looked like the radioactive **** the guy had spilled on him at the end of Robocop. I guess if you wear gloves it can't really hurt you. OK, I guess the professional vaccum job isn't necessary.

TonyC, sorry man, when I think of SoCal, SanB/Riverside is the last place I think of... I'm trying to block out my 2 years at UCR.
The green "radioactive goo" was oil that had UV reactive dye in it. Someone at some point in time was searching for a leak in your system. Yup refrigerant evaporates. That's how it works. When the compressor turns on it creates a low pressure zone in the evaporator and when the freon hit it it evaporates. Think of the "compressor" as more of a vacuum pump. It only works with the freon in vapor form and sucks it thru the system. Which is also why you never hold the can upside down when charging the low side with the system running. The liquid -could- make it's way to the compressor and blow it.
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Old 07-25-2007, 02:07 PM   #23
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the sluge is the "oil" that's inside the a/c. freon is like your fart. it just dissipates if you opened a bunghole in your a/c system. (uhhh.. apparently lazzer types a LOT faster than i)

samnavy: sorry to hear about UCR.. they wrote a song about Xmas in the 909 didn't they? i effin hate SB county. with a passion. smells like sh*t.

speedf50: chk ur pm. i brought the biz card for the chinky tire store into work cuz i hv ESP biatch.

and yes, your 97 has r134 (should say so on the back of the compressor itself). get ur A/C fix dude. it's CHEAP. i hv an extra freon refill hose you can borrow. Walmart has r134 for ~$6/can.

Last edited by TonyC; 07-25-2007 at 02:08 PM. Reason: me slow.
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Old 07-25-2007, 05:01 PM   #24
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Cool, so is it essential to get the system drained then? As it sits now it seems as if the only thing that I am going to need to go to an a/c place for is to get it drained, but if that isn't needed... I'm quite the cheap bastard myself. Could I just leave one fitting open and put a can of that stuff through the system?

And I'm going to try to get a condenser today.

Tony, your ESP rapes.
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Old 07-25-2007, 05:22 PM   #25
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If you leave a port open then the freon you put in will just evaporate. It isn't a liquid unless it's under pressure. You -can- just fill the system and be done with it. People do it all the time. As a mechanic I can't tell you everything will be fine and dandy unless you do it right. It's my job. But 95% chance it'll be just fine.
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Old 07-25-2007, 05:32 PM   #26
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Well the worst thing that could happen is that I would have to get it emptied and refilled again, right? I think for now I am going to go the cheap route.
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Old 07-25-2007, 05:53 PM   #27
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Just do it.
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Old 07-25-2007, 08:33 PM   #28
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This is ez, buy a used condensor and new dryer and hard line(s) as needed - get it charged (not sure about R12 I believe it's harder to get but 134a is cheap and comes in 12oz w/compressor oil in it, for every part you replace you will need to add 2oz compressor oil - don't ask why i know this) if you can get a can premixed with oil that's good but you'll still need to add the oil (it's like wd40 unpressurized) when you install the dryer - which will need to be replaced after being in an open ac system for 48 hrs. You can forgo having a shop purge and fill (that costs $$$, even for r134a they charge 95-250 to do this with their golden tools...) if you replace the dryer and refill yourself - the a/c won't be quite as strong but plenty strong. This is the route I took when my IC destroyed my a/c dryer... Total cost on mine was 120$ including the dryer, a hardline from the dealer, compressor oil and a premixed can of compressor oil/R134A and the tool to fill the system (get this anywhere-even walmart caries it). I've been told by many you can put R134A in R12 system and it should be fine but dunno on that one - wouldn't hurt to try - worst case it leaks out of the o-rings. Oh yeah and if replaceing o-rings which you will be - buy new o-rings and put some compressor oil on them b4 installing them. Mine hasn't leaked since I did the repair - it took ~2hrs in the garage.
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Old 07-26-2007, 01:44 AM   #29
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Well, I am getting tired of all of these other things and I really just want my car to be running again.

So.... I'll deal with all of this a/c stuff later if I feel the need to. I think I'm just going to rip it out for now lol. Or just take off the smashed up condenser and plug up the line for now.
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Old 07-26-2007, 05:34 AM   #30
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What ever you do...Do it quick. Im starting to feel your Anxiousness to drive your car again : /
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Old 07-26-2007, 09:15 AM   #31
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R12 is different from r134 sam r12 is halon based, type **** that is and was alot more effecient but the CFC's that everyone bitched about killing our ozone layer caused the government to stop the production of it so the price of a bottle of r12 went from 3-4$ a can to 30-40 $ a can depending on where you bought it from. As of today to my knowledge r12 can only be recylced not reproduced etc. Also r12 and r 134 are not compatible the different oils in the system will eat your orings etc and kill your system. + the different freons don't play nice with each other eiteher. all 94+ cars are r134 all 134's are compatible with each other. I hope you guys found this enlightening.
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Old 07-26-2007, 02:49 PM   #32
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I say HAARP and others killed the ozone layer, or the shuttle launches, ect ect. Freon was a coverup to put blame on anything else.
http://www.haarp.alaska.edu/
http://www.haarp.alaska.edu/haarp/images/pan.jpg
180 antennas? a few (3.6) million watts? in a vertical beam? There talking to someone. After all. Ionic research doesn't need a carrier wave.
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Old 07-27-2007, 11:53 AM   #33
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But Remo Williams destroyed the Harp project remember geez but i agree the hole and all that greenhouse **** has been blown out of proportion.
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Old 07-29-2007, 11:03 PM   #34
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I have a similar problem. My compressor went and I bought a new one off a guy. Normally this wouldn't be a problem, but my system has been retrofitted with R134a from R12. Most likely the compressor is R12, so I'm wondering, can I just take an air gun to the compressor and flush out the oil, or would there still be too much R12 oil in it to be safe?
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