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Old 01-02-2010, 01:42 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thirdgen View Post
I got my 2000 Silverado bed rhino lined...blahblahblah
How much? I'd really only want transmission tunnel and on either side, so foot wells and seat areas. MAYBE behind the seats up to the metal panel, but that's it.

Damn youdjp0623, you've reminded me of a yet another project to look into, hopefully it turns out to be stupid expensive or stupid heavy, so I can forget about it.
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Old 01-02-2010, 02:21 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
How much? I'd really only want transmission tunnel and on either side, so foot wells and seat areas. MAYBE behind the seats up to the metal panel, but that's it.

Damn youdjp0623, you've reminded me of a yet another project to look into, hopefully it turns out to be stupid expensive or stupid heavy, so I can forget about it.
I think it's only going to cost about $200 bucks if I take the car in with it stripped. (which it already is except for seats and console. I bought it without carpet. I plan on having the floorboards, behind the seats and the convertible top area. I didn't think about the trunk area.

I don't think it will look tacky if done correctly. I think if you try to do it yourself with a brush or roll on method it could end poorly.
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Old 01-02-2010, 02:55 AM   #23
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I think the Honda Element's entire interior is waterproofed plastic crap, made so you hose off the whole bottom half of the car's insides (Obviously don't blast the dash, HVAC cluster etc)

But true body undercoating spray is a more durable than most bed liners you'll find. That stuff lasts decades, then you can bust out the pressure washer on *most* of your Miata's interior.

For $68 shipped this looks like the same stuff from the factory sprayed on the frame.



DYNATRON RUBBERIZED UNDERCOAT/ GAL /AUTO / TRUCK / :eBay Motors (item 110329777056 end time Jan-17-10 14:53:37 PST)
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Old 01-02-2010, 11:03 AM   #24
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I wonder how the coating will take to the heat on the transmission tunnel. I know mine gets smokin hot on the drivers side....That would suck if it heated up enough to become tacky and then stuck to your leg. I suppose it'd be any easy fix though just by putting some reflective heat sheilding between the dp and the tunnel
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Old 01-02-2010, 11:19 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cspence View Post
I wonder how the coating will take to the heat on the transmission tunnel. I know mine gets smokin hot on the drivers side....That would suck if it heated up enough to become tacky and then stuck to your leg. I suppose it'd be any easy fix though just by putting some reflective heat sheilding between the dp and the tunnel
I'll ask about this. I'm hoping it will act as a heat shield.
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Old 01-02-2010, 11:26 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djp0623 View Post
I'll ask about this. I'm hoping it will act as a heat shield.
Not too sure if it'll act as a shield or not, but I don't think you'll have a problem with it getting tacky or what not, considering it's usually used on truck beds (direct sunlight) and black, so I imagine it's designed to hold up to heat half-way decent.
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Old 01-03-2010, 09:50 PM   #27
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It's usually very expensive unless there is a generic option now. Hurculiner DIY kits suck in comparison to the real Rhinoliner, so I don't suggest doing it yourself.
Is it really that hard to vacuum carpet?
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Old 01-07-2010, 03:05 AM   #28
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I didn't use rhino liner brand but I did this. I have no carpet - tub is red, and I wanted to add a bit of durability to the footwells so I used spray-on rubberized bed liner. It's not thick or heavy and it offers more traction than the metal tub. I like it, I just masked off the foot area and basically sprayed on a permanent floor mat, so the rest of my interior is still the red metal but the footwell is black. Works great. I would not use the really chunky and thick rhino liner, but look into something like what I used.
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Old 01-07-2010, 04:41 AM   #29
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Any pictures Ryan ^^

In for doing this to my interior, i would hate to paint the entire interior and have it chip away from getting in and out all the time. Plus the bare metal without carpet isn't my favorite.
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Old 01-09-2010, 10:48 PM   #30
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I have helped lots of buddies rhino line the interiors of their jeeps for offroading and mud cleanup. I actually plan on doing it to the exterior of my samurai just for the bulletproof durability. Just don't get the cheap crappy stuff, it chips off and gets brittle.

Also, Durabak is like the same stuff but they have it in an assortment of colors and you can get it glossy (without the rubber chunks) or textured, its a bit more money but it's worth it if that's what you're going for.
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Old 01-11-2010, 10:29 PM   #31
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the company i paint for has done some pretty exstinsive testing of rhino lining and other simular products. i'll see if i can get the different specs on it.
i do know that the rhino lining will withstand 12 guage birdshot at the distance of 4 feet the bbs embedded themselves into the material and a pressure sprayer washed them off did not go to the metal pretty mean ****.
and if you **** up putting it on it's a holy nightmare to get off.
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Old 01-11-2010, 11:53 PM   #32
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Do it!! I had a gutted 91 civic hatch with only a dash, seat, and cage. I got it sprayed and it was much more enjoyable on the street. I think it looked great too. I would abandon any thoughts of making your car more rigid with it though. It wont. In for pics.
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Old 01-12-2010, 12:35 AM   #33
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I'm going to try to go Wednesday for a quote. I was waiting for it to warm up slightly.
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Old 01-14-2010, 03:49 PM   #34
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I got the quote today and it was much higher than expected, but I'm positive I can get the price lower. For the are forward of the shelf it is $500 for the rhino lining and $75 for the extra UV coating.

She said a jeep interior is normally $600 to $650

I think I could get everything for $475 out the door.

I looked at the different spray patterns and was very pleased with what I saw.

This is still considerably more than carpet (which I believe can be had for $250), which also includes the shelf.

She said to rhino line the shelf would be an extra $25 but she recommended not doing it because of all of the wiring and that there were a lot of different surfaces to cover.

Where does everyone recommend buying carpet? I'd like to compare this with carpet further. It appears that I could buy two carpet sets for one rhino coating. The carpet will offer the most sound deadening (which is important to me), but more maintenance (which was pointed out earlier to be minimal).

Rhino lining with UV won't fade easily. Who has experience with carpet fade? How long did it take? My car spends many "top down in the sun" hours parked.

I'd like someone else to get a quote in their area just to see what price differences we can find?

Please respond with your opinions.
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Old 01-14-2010, 03:53 PM   #35
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ebay carpet supplier

165 bucks shipped is pretty low...I cant comment on quality though.
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Old 01-14-2010, 05:37 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff_Ciesielski View Post
ebay carpet supplier

165 bucks shipped is pretty low...I cant comment on quality though.
I can. It's thicker amd stronger, more ****/thick felt then the stock loop pile carpet. That being said it doesn't form nearly as nicely as stock carpet, looks "loose". Get gospeed or na6cguy (i think) to show you a pic, if they're the ones I'm thinking of, you can tell the difference. Obviously it's brand new though, and the color is amazing, my black was BLACK.
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Old 01-30-2010, 06:23 PM   #37
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djp0623, you decide if your going through with this? I'm just excited to see how it'd come out!
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Old 01-30-2010, 07:07 PM   #38
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I think that I have decided against it. If I could talk the price down it would still be pretty expensive. It's about twice the price I thought it would be based on the area being lined. I think a carpet kit will be in my future. If I could have to professionally done for $250 - $300, then I would do it.
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Old 01-30-2010, 07:09 PM   #39
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Damn, I was lookin forward to it
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Old 01-30-2010, 10:52 PM   #40
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ditto, perhaps a DIY'r will step up?
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