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Old 10-08-2008, 09:42 PM   #61
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i really starting to hate you Eric, really

hurry up and finish you car already man.
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Old 10-16-2008, 12:43 AM   #62
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More parts arrived...

My reworked BEGi downpipe:
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Manifold (Ceramic coated silver):
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Turbine Housing (Also ceramic coated):
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And the nifty little heatshield that bolts onto the front edge of the manifold and blocks heat from the compressor housing:
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Old 12-11-2008, 09:39 PM   #63
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So, just a quick update since there hasn't been one in quite some time...

The short block is at the machine shop now getting all worked up. So far they have the oil pump rebuilt with the billet pump gears. They're waiting on parts to come in (rings, bearings, and wrist pins) before they get seriously started on it. Everything has just been cleaned up so far.
I found a complete '00 head, intake manifold, and throttle body for $80 at a salvage yard (thanks again Mike!), and was going to have that done by the machine shop as well, but decided to use my '95 head for now and do a head swap later after I get the car running again. That is the priority at the moment.
But the head will get the set of OEM sized Supertech valves and viton valve seals I have already, and will get a little work done to it to allow it to breathe better. And I want to get BEGi's newly designed turbo intake manifold when those are released for sale.
The owner of the 2000 apparently did not like regular maintenance as you will see, but it was nothing that the machine shop could not make easy work of since I wanted them to check it out. And everything in the head checked out (except the valve guides, they were a little worn out and didn't fit the Supertech valves properly anyway), so I got a steal.

When I got it:

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And post-machine shop work:

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I bought a 6-speed transmission (the one on the right with all the nice extra ribbing on the housing):

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And got a set of 3.636 rear end gears to help keep the RPMs low with the 6-speed. Had them CryoREM treated (Cryo for strength and REM for friction reduction, they look like gears cut out of a mirror in person!):

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New BOV:

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New Master Bushing Kit:

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Old 12-12-2008, 03:24 PM   #64
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Looks like its all coming together nicely. I cant wait to get mine back up and running so I can start on some real work. When you get done, wanna trade. Im sure you enjoy doing it so much, you will want to do it again... to my car...

What is reworked on the DP? Extra bung?
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Old 12-12-2008, 03:31 PM   #65
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Sure I'll do it again, but you have to pay for the parts, labor, and my time. Actually, I hope to not have to go through this again for a very long time.

No, IIRC they had a new jig made that worked out some issues they had been having, my old downpipe was a prior design, and since I was having a ton of back and forth issues with it, I ended up having to wait on the new "reworked" design.
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Old 12-12-2008, 03:37 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RotorNutFD3S View Post
Sure I'll do it again, but you have to pay for the parts, labor, and my time. Actually, I hope to not have to go through this again for a very long time.

No, IIRC they had a new jig made that worked out some issues they had been having, my old downpipe was a prior design, and since I was having a ton of back and forth issues with it, I ended up having to wait on the new "reworked" design.
OOOH. They reworked it, I thought you meant you had something done to it. Makes sense now. Yeah, Ive been mid rebuild for several months now, with a head gasket issue, which has now lead to me going back and just doing a full bottom end rebuild (stock rods and pistons) since the block has to be torn down to have the deck machined anyway. If it doesnt run without issues next time Im going to cry. Hope yours works out glitch free and fires right up.
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Old 12-12-2008, 03:48 PM   #67
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Definitely appreciate that! Hopes yours does as well when the time comes! It's unnerving putting all the money, time, and effort into it and hoping it works right when it's done.
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Old 01-13-2009, 12:30 AM   #68
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So got some images from the machine shop. The block is just about done. Had some clearance issues between the ARP studs and the MBSP, but that's all good now. Oil pump is completely cleaned up, rebuilt with a set of the billet gears (no issues whatsoever there by the way), and is ready to go.

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No more bent rod now!!!
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Old 01-13-2009, 12:38 AM   #69
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Holy ****! Look in the first pic, in the background. To the left on the shelf appears to be some badass aluminum head off a big block. Look at the size of the ports! And I'm guessing to the right is the intake for said heads. Crazy.

Anyways... Build is looking nice. I would put some JB-weld or the likes on the freeze plugs just to help secure them. Or you can drill and tap the block around them and build a plate that holds them in. You don't really have to do this, just something I'd do to make damn sure you never loose a freeze plug.
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Old 01-13-2009, 12:47 AM   #70
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Yeah, I don't know if you remember my thread asking about labor prices (https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t28861/) but I posted a picture of the 1,360hp engine they built for a dirt racing truck. This shop specializes mainly in big block performance/racing builds, I'm their test customer for 4-cylinder applications.

I've never heard of that before, but I'll inquire about securing the freeze plugs and see what they think. They've really gone above and beyond with my engine and have really put a lot of time and thought into it. I wouldn't be surprised if they haven't done something about them already.
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Old 01-13-2009, 04:40 AM   #71
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Might I ask what the shop labor is costing you? My next engine I may just give to a shop to do. Alot of work for someone that doesnt have a good work area and a good layout of specialty tools. Im thinking mine is going to work fine, but I wouldnt want to trust myself on a $2k+ engine. Can PM me if you dont feel comfortable posting costs. Good to see it all coming together though. Any ETA on getting it all back. Looks like they are about done.

Any reason they didnt do the block deck? Or did you just not want it done? I would have done .001 off just for security sake, and it probably wouldnt have been but $30-$50 more. Even if it checked out with a straight edge, couldnt hurt. After my recent trouble, Im not going to risk it in the future, even though I think that ended up not being my trouble all along (rings).

PS, what shop might I ask? ATL isnt too far, might be willing to drive to them if I need any work in the future. Nice drive anyway, make a trip out of it. Dont have many local performance shops I trust.
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Old 01-13-2009, 10:43 AM   #72
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It's definitely worth having a shop do the work if you don't have the tools for the job. I have decent mechanical abilities and experience working on auto and aircraft engines, and I didn't feel comfortable doing my own work. Now had I been able to do the work myself with the guidance of a professional machinist like I had originally planned, I would have done so, but that didn't work out.

They sourced the freeze plugs, piston rings, and bearings, between that, cleaning, and labor, the cost is about $900. Then the head work they're doing for me, which includes new valve guides, installation of the Supertech valves, and some work just to make it breathe a little better is going to run me about $600. So definitely not too bad. The other parts, like seals, hoses, and all that other OEM crap to make everything new again all added up quickly, I bought all that myself, but they were willing to source most of it as well.

The block is done, or will be today, and I'm taking them the cyl. head when I go pick up the block. That should only have a few days of turnaround time. Then it's a matter of finishing assembly of the engine and getting it ready to install. Getting a lot closer now. They were supposed to do the block deck if it was needed, when I saw the pictures, I called and they said it was not necessary to take anything off, but you better believe that I'll be running a straight-edge all over that thing when I go to pick it up just for piece of mind. I don't want to risk any issues there either.

The shop is called Engine Systems, it's in Tucker, GA. There's a fellow Miata driver (and member on mx5atlanta.com) that works there, he's the one doing most of the work, and is heading up their new "import" division of work. My engine is the first 4-cylinder they've ever done.
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Old 01-13-2009, 03:50 PM   #73
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Here is a noob question. Why new freeze plugs? Ive never had to replace one, and have never had any issues with a freeze plug leaking.

Tucker wouldnt be bad at all, Im in Buckhead all the time, so just around the corner.

I just hope this stock rebuild Im doing now works out. After I get the turbo I will start on my own engine build with some good aftermarket stuff.
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Old 01-13-2009, 04:36 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RotorNutFD3S View Post
Yeah, I don't know if you remember my thread asking about labor prices (https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t28861/) but I posted a picture of the 1,360hp engine they built for a dirt racing truck. This shop specializes mainly in big block performance/racing builds, I'm their test customer for 4-cylinder applications.

I've never heard of that before, but I'll inquire about securing the freeze plugs and see what they think. They've really gone above and beyond with my engine and have really put a lot of time and thought into it. I wouldn't be surprised if they haven't done something about them already.
Well, they press in so, in theory, they shouldn't come out. I tend to think of a race-oriented motor where you want to eliminate any possible failure points. IE-your radiator cap fails to open, coolant pressure climbs too high, and you pop a freeze plug and overheat very quickly. Not likely to happen, but it has happened before. So if it were me, I'd put a spec of JB around them to help glue them in just for peace of mind. Kind of like how you had the R&P cryo'd and all. Probably wasn't necessary, but you enjoy the peace of mind.
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Old 01-13-2009, 04:41 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NA6C-Guy View Post
Any reason they didnt do the block deck? Or did you just not want it done? I would have done .001 off just for security sake, and it probably wouldnt have been but $30-$50 more. Even if it checked out with a straight edge, couldnt hurt. After my recent trouble, Im not going to risk it in the future, even though I think that ended up not being my trouble all along (rings)
If the deck is perfectly flat, then machining it flat will not make it any flatter... And you can't mill off .001". You have to make a sufficient pass to get underneath the "skin" so that you can cut, and not rub, the metal.

Anyways, it's always a good idea to have the deck checked. I'm sure the shop did if they know what they're doing. And I'd trust the shops straight edge to yours.
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Old 01-14-2009, 04:18 AM   #76
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Hey, my straight edge is perfect! It doubles as a carpenters square... ...
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Old 01-19-2009, 01:24 AM   #77
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Just to give an example of the regular work these guys do, here's another engine they just finished. Exact power output is unknown, but it's just on top of 1,000 hp n/a. With nitrous, well, I'll let you be the judge of that.

Overview from the front:
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Close-up of head details:
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More?!
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Rear of engine.
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Old 01-19-2009, 01:31 AM   #78
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3 stages of nitrous. Damn. That's the kind of **** you want to see when you go to pickup your motor.
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Old 02-19-2009, 01:51 AM   #79
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My $80 '99 head is back in my possession, all built and ready to go!

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Photos of the ports did not turn out so well, but the majority of the porting was done down near the valves. Nothing extreme or fancy, just something to improve the flow.

And this is what you see when you walk into my office at home, otherwise known as: this is what happens when you buy too much s*** and don't have a running car :lol: :

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Can't wait until it's all gone and back in the car.
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Old 02-19-2009, 02:59 AM   #80
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Well if I had that laying around my house I would be the happiest guy in the world! btw nice build keep it up!!!
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