seafoam oil pressure?
 

I added 6oz of seafoam to the crank case today and ran it at idle for 20min. thanged the oil and filter (filter to the mazda milennia size, oil is m1 10w30 i think thats what ive always used) check for leaks and correct fill level, all is fine.
I started and took the car for a little spin and the idle oil pressure is 60 and if i lean into it it goes to 90... is this normal after seafoam?...it used to be 30 at idle then 60 when i got on it. opinions, suggestions? thanks.

btw its a 92 with the 1.6 no turbo yet :sad2:

that's the way mine is when cold........once up to operating temp it is 20ish @ idle and about 60 when under high rpm

you need to do an oil change now....you just introduced detergents into the crankcase, which aren't lubricants.

^ that and or freed up some really nasty shit.

:werd:

After running the seafoam through, I changed the oil and filter. (cant figure out the quote thing) i say this again to tell brainiac. brainiac, you say to "change the oil now" because you think i didnt after the seafoam, or because I effed something up?

no because seafoam is a detergent; its a good cleaner. so it's breaking down your oil and cleaning out your crankcase....you need to get it out of there and put in some good oil.

I did drain the oil I used seafoam with and put in new m1 10-30. now with the new oil in is whats giving me my strange oil pressure.

oh i cant read very well.

oil is thicker, what filter did you use?

AKA:

He put seafoam in.
Cleaned the gunk.
Changed Oil.
Now has Oil Pressure issues.

i used a fram filter for a mazda millenia...i read somewhere on this forum someone did that to increase oil capacity a bit, it fits fine.

as far as the oil weight, i wish i could find the damn paper i wrote the info down on the last time i changed the oil but i think its the same weight that i had.though last time it was quakerstate and now its mobile1

10w30 shouldn't give you oil pressure like that. And on a side note I think I've heard it mentioned that Fram filters are a no-no. I just did a 2Twisty flush (similar to seafoaming) and my oil pressure is 70 bone cold idle, 25 warm idle, and 60ish in high rpms warm. Same as it was before.

weight is important...empty quarts in the trash to go check?

Was that cold or warm? My car runs up to 90 when its cold. Castrol GTX 5w30 IIRC...stock filter.


Warm idle is about 15psi...30-60 while driving.

ok a few things...

what weight oil is everyone else using?

what filter are you using if not fram?

keep in mind im in southern florida, so "cold" start doesnt really pertain to me.:)

how much would it matter if its m1 10w30 full synthetic high mileage...shit :bang:

well oil weight can make a difference.

I for one am using one of the best filters on the market IMO. Puralator Pure One.

I dunno, would it really hurt you to change your oil again?

Fram filters have crappy internal construction or at least they used to. A factory filter will be better. Some of the other brands like Purolator can be good too.
Not sure if this is the source of your problem.

I've used fram filters on everything I've owned before and so has my dad for years, and never had any troubles. would the "high mileage" oil have anything to do with this. and what is a good weight for the miata...10w30...5w30?

I've always used 10w30, I just switched to 5w30 after the 2twisty flush to help cold tick (which is gone btw) The OP is the same for both.

i've used M1 10-30 for 6 years now, cold tick is gone, it was there when i bought the car...and it was bad

i also used the fram filter for ever...i dont like what im hearing about them though...i just wish i could find more info on that...
i got a free M1 filter, i think im gonna try that and see if i notice any difference in oil clearity after change
if that does nothing, i think ill just buy a bunch of OEM ones in bulk and just stick with them